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Rear Brake Light Sensitivity Prob. - Switch??

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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 01:30 PM
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Question Rear Brake Light Sensitivity Prob. - Switch??

Hi All - 1999 Night Train. Brake light goes on fine using front brakes but rear brakes really need to stand on the pedal to the point of lock-up to get the rear brake light to go on. I tried to adjust at the pedal - seems like this adjustment only controls the angle of the pedal and I noticed no change to the sensitivity of the brake light.

My question(s) are as follows:

Is the rear brake light switch located half-way back on the brake line mounted to the tranny? Two wires coming out?

If this is the switch, is there any sensitivity adjustment on it?

If I replace the switch, will I need to bleed the rear brakes?

Is there any other place that I should be looking to adjust the brake light sensitivity?

Thanks . . . . .Mark
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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Default Brake Light Switch

Originally Posted by Skidmark25
Hi All - 1999 Night Train. Brake light goes on fine using front brakes but rear brakes really need to stand on the pedal to the point of lock-up to get the rear brake light to go on. I tried to adjust at the pedal - seems like this adjustment only controls the angle of the pedal and I noticed no change to the sensitivity of the brake light.

My question(s) are as follows:

Is the rear brake light switch located half-way back on the brake line mounted to the tranny? Two wires coming out?

If this is the switch, is there any sensitivity adjustment on it?

If I replace the switch, will I need to bleed the rear brakes?

Is there any other place that I should be looking to adjust the brake light sensitivity?

Thanks . . . . .Mark
There is no adjust on this switch or the front one under the hand lever

My 04 has the Harley diode block to use the rear signal lights as brake / signal lights. Three times the normal load. I think due to this the rear switch which is pushed in by brake fluid went at about 20K. The front under the hand lever is a micro switch went at 30K Unlike yours it mostly would just not work and then it would be working. With the years on yours the switch could have trash gumming it up. If you have dot 5 I doubt it. I would replace it. Before replacing it I would break the rear caliper bleeder with a 6 point socket. Just lightly snug it back up and put a box wrench on it with a hose over the fitting and into a small jar. Remove the cap on the foot pedal master cylinder and make sure its full. If its clean (if its not clean I would scoop it out and refill with clean) reach back and pull the box wrench loose and push the brake leave down. At the bottom of the stroke hold it and snug the box wrench slightly. Pump up the pedal and repeat till the master cylinder looks a little low. Fill it (be sure to use correct fluid--mine is dot5) and repeat. That should flush the line. Now with a replacement switch and wrench to match it, removing the bolt that holds the switch up to the frame. Release the rear flexible brake line clip will let the switch drop down to get to it. Hold the square block with one wrench and screw switch out with proper wrench. Bleed one pump with the switch out and while holding brake pedal down will finish flushing any crud in threads, screw the new switch in and snug it. Note no sealer on threads here. Put it back in place and screw the bolt that holds it in place. Tighten the switch up and re-plug wires. Does not matter what side wires go on.
Then re-bleed the master cylinder again at least two complete fillings to insure all air is out. The last of the bleeds you should not see any bubbles coming out of the end of the hose in your jar. Then make sure you see no brake fluid at switch. Drive a few miles and recheck for fluid. I always check again in a few days also. This is what I would do. If you have never done brake work either get someone who has to help or pay someone. The above is only to suggest what needs to be done. Do not practice this without experience. Its easy for me and I consider it easy but I have been doing it for years. Let me know what you find out. If I was you before I did this I would make sure rotors are not too thin and pads are good. Once you need to break into the lines you might as well make sure all is well and it will be hopefull another 11 years before you have a problem. PS How many miles on bike? Also my 04 does not have an angle adjustment on the brake pedal

 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jun 20, 2010 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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I replaced my rear brake witch at about 40K as it died. Yes, it is the switch halfway down the rear brake line. I took it off and took it to Kragen and picked another for about $10.

Drew
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:35 PM
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Mine did the same about 6 months ago. Just went down to the local Harley store, bought another switch, and threw it on. Didn't bleed the brakes (you might see a couple of drops come out during the replacement). Everything was good to go.
 

Last edited by Weevil; Jun 20, 2010 at 05:39 PM.
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 08:11 PM
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Don't have time to fiddle with it until tomorrow night - Has around 9k miles. Also I popped open the brake fluid reservior and it was pretty low. I intend on topping off the fluid and bleeding tomorrow. . . . .
 
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