Rear Brake Switch
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Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
From: Williamsburg, Virginia
Rear Brake Switch
I think I have a faulty rear brake switch.
I need help figuring out how to remove it from the brake line.
1996 1200 Sportster Custom.
(Back-story is that this is not my bike. I'm trying to help a friend get his new-to-him bike back on the road after years of sitting in a garage. [I think I just figured out why! It won't pass inspection without both brake switches working properly])
I had to disconnect the rear brake line during the bleeding of the brake and that seemed to go well. Bottom line is the bike runs and stops just fine. I just don't have a rear brake light when I use the rear brake pedal. The front brake lever does cause the brake light to burn.
I need help figuring out how to remove it from the brake line.
1996 1200 Sportster Custom.
(Back-story is that this is not my bike. I'm trying to help a friend get his new-to-him bike back on the road after years of sitting in a garage. [I think I just figured out why! It won't pass inspection without both brake switches working properly])
I had to disconnect the rear brake line during the bleeding of the brake and that seemed to go well. Bottom line is the bike runs and stops just fine. I just don't have a rear brake light when I use the rear brake pedal. The front brake lever does cause the brake light to burn.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,492
Likes: 610
From: USA
It looks like you already bled the rear brake BUT if you haven't the rear brake light switch is a pressure switch and needs the hydraulic pressure to work. I'd also check the wiring by jumping the 2 wires on the switch to see if the brake light works. If you need to change the switch, here's the instructions for a 1998 Sporty but they should be close enough to help you.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 758
Likes: 119
From: Central Florida
What 14GuineaPig said. Here's a video on testing it, start there...
Once you determine it's the switch (likely - they fail often), it's a simple swap and under 20$ for the part. You'll likely want to bleed brakes again after to ensure no air got in.
Once you determine it's the switch (likely - they fail often), it's a simple swap and under 20$ for the part. You'll likely want to bleed brakes again after to ensure no air got in.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
From: Williamsburg, Virginia
This is EXACTLY what I needed. I appreciate you, DeadRubberBoy! Thanks. Thanks 14GuineaPig and John, too. You guys really helped me out
Last edited by VaDan; Feb 7, 2017 at 08:28 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 758
Likes: 119
From: Central Florida
Sure thing! We're all learning. Welcome to the forum!
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
From: Williamsburg, Virginia
Rear Brake Switch
What I found (through testing) was that I have a bad switch AND a broken wire going to the switch.
With the help of this forum, I was able to diagnose the problem, see the solutions, and feel like a Rock Star.
The repair should not be too difficult and the bike will be back on the road again.
"Thanks" seems hardly enough
With the help of this forum, I was able to diagnose the problem, see the solutions, and feel like a Rock Star.
The repair should not be too difficult and the bike will be back on the road again.
"Thanks" seems hardly enough
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 758
Likes: 119
From: Central Florida
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