How necessary is the Snap on Torque spline when changing softail shocks
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,829
Likes: 0
From: OC,NY
How necessary is the Snap on Torque spline when changing softail shocks
Is the Snap on part # sres 24 and the torque slide pt # ss306g really needed when replacing the softail shocks.Does it make the install easier or does it just get shocks torqued to proper specs,My torque wrench only goes to 75 ft pds.Gonna have to borrow one 121-136 ft pds is recommended.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 2
From: WA - The State
I've never used it. From what I understand it makes it easier when removing the right side shock bolt, which is a real pain, but doable with patience.
I've just Loc-Tited my bolts, snugged them up with a box end, then tapped them a bit tighter with a rubber mallet. Never had one loosen, and still had the smack the wrench with a mallet to get them loosened up last time I removed them.
I've just Loc-Tited my bolts, snugged them up with a box end, then tapped them a bit tighter with a rubber mallet. Never had one loosen, and still had the smack the wrench with a mallet to get them loosened up last time I removed them.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,829
Likes: 0
From: OC,NY
I've never used it. From what I understand it makes it easier when removing the right side shock bolt, which is a real pain, but doable with patience.
I've just Loc-Tited my bolts, snugged them up with a box end, then tapped them a bit tighter with a rubber mallet. Never had one loosen, and still had the smack the wrench with a mallet to get them loosened up last time I removed them.
I've just Loc-Tited my bolts, snugged them up with a box end, then tapped them a bit tighter with a rubber mallet. Never had one loosen, and still had the smack the wrench with a mallet to get them loosened up last time I removed them.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,178
Likes: 6
From: N.C.
I agree , a box end wrench is all you need. The trick is getting the bike jacked up off the ground and then not having anything underneath it in the way that interferes with wrench being turned while on the shock bolts.
In one of the below photos I just removed the yellow Sears jack out of the way once I was up in the air safely on jack stands. Also note that I had a Floorjack under the rear tire and blocks odf wood under the front tire. If you can suspend the bike off the gound at least 10-12 inches or more should give you good room to work. I just used the 3 to 4 grunt method with blue loctite to tighten the rear bolts on the shocks. Remember to be careful and use common sense so as not to harm you or the bike while jacked up in the air.
In one of the below photos I just removed the yellow Sears jack out of the way once I was up in the air safely on jack stands. Also note that I had a Floorjack under the rear tire and blocks odf wood under the front tire. If you can suspend the bike off the gound at least 10-12 inches or more should give you good room to work. I just used the 3 to 4 grunt method with blue loctite to tighten the rear bolts on the shocks. Remember to be careful and use common sense so as not to harm you or the bike while jacked up in the air.
Last edited by Rockyriver; Aug 7, 2010 at 12:39 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
From: Utah
I purchased the snap-on adapter and it made life tons easier - they also have a conversion table to get the torque correct being that it is about 3" offset from the bolt. It cost about $60 bucks - so not cheap but well worth it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
