LED Bolt-FX Install (Need help tapping tail light wires...)
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 557
Likes: 1
From: 27540
LED Bolt-FX Install (Need help tapping tail light wires...)
Ok, so I'm not an electrician and I realize for some this is very easy and a very basic install, but I don't want to splice into anything I shouldn't and would rather ask before taking action so please be gentle...
So I have some of those LED Bolt-FX things that allow you to light up your license plate and I'm trying to figure out how I need to splice/tap/whatever the wires from the LED Bolt-FX to the existing tail light wires.
The LED lights on the bolts for the license plate will basically be running lights so they are always on. Do I simply tap into the red wire going into the tail light bulb with the red coming from the LED? and then the black from the LED into the black that looks like it goes into a ground behind the tail light bulb? Is that blue the wire that makes the brake light activate, making the light brighter than the standard running light?
Since I need to splice both the left and right LED bolt into the tail light wires, where's the best place to do that? Should I splice them both next to each other on the left side where the wires come out of the black casing by the bulb or is it better to do one there and one up above or something?
Also, the wires from the LED bolts aren't covered by a black casing or anything...do I need to worry about them being exposed as they are? Do I need to get a cover or something to protect them? Here's how it looks now...
Do I need to worry about any kind of load balancer or anything like that? I know from what I've read if you swap out your bulbs for LEDs I'd heard some people saying you need a load balancer...
I got some of those quick splice things from Advanced Auto that I planned on using to connect the wires together... are these ok?
Thanks...trying to save the $$ by doing this myself rather than paying a shop 30 minutes labor.
So I have some of those LED Bolt-FX things that allow you to light up your license plate and I'm trying to figure out how I need to splice/tap/whatever the wires from the LED Bolt-FX to the existing tail light wires.
The LED lights on the bolts for the license plate will basically be running lights so they are always on. Do I simply tap into the red wire going into the tail light bulb with the red coming from the LED? and then the black from the LED into the black that looks like it goes into a ground behind the tail light bulb? Is that blue the wire that makes the brake light activate, making the light brighter than the standard running light?
Since I need to splice both the left and right LED bolt into the tail light wires, where's the best place to do that? Should I splice them both next to each other on the left side where the wires come out of the black casing by the bulb or is it better to do one there and one up above or something?
Also, the wires from the LED bolts aren't covered by a black casing or anything...do I need to worry about them being exposed as they are? Do I need to get a cover or something to protect them? Here's how it looks now...
Do I need to worry about any kind of load balancer or anything like that? I know from what I've read if you swap out your bulbs for LEDs I'd heard some people saying you need a load balancer...
I got some of those quick splice things from Advanced Auto that I planned on using to connect the wires together... are these ok?
Thanks...trying to save the $$ by doing this myself rather than paying a shop 30 minutes labor.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 2
From: WA - The State
I'd have to look at my manual to see which wire I tapped into, but I can say you won't need a load equalizer for just the LED bolts. I think that is needed when you switch to an LED brakelight, or add your turn signals to the brake light circuit (though I could be wrong as I haven't done either).
The quick splice you show is what I used when I added my LED plate frame.
The quick splice you show is what I used when I added my LED plate frame.
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 557
Likes: 1
From: 27540
One thing I just realized, I think the wires coming from the LED bolts are too thin/narrow for the quick splicers to penetrate them...
I just tried one of them out with some of the excess wiring that was in the package connected to the little battery unit for display and it didn't puncture through to the wire since they are so thin...
So I think I need to get smaller ones...
I just tried one of them out with some of the excess wiring that was in the package connected to the little battery unit for display and it didn't puncture through to the wire since they are so thin...
So I think I need to get smaller ones...
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 61
From: Albany, OR
I just soldered the wires from one bolt to another then to some more lead wire up the swing arm and tapped into the wires by the connecter under the seat. I used T-taps http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-14+Gauge.html and shrink-wrapped it all and used wire ties to attach to the swing arm.
You can get T-taps at most local auto stores. I just used a probe to find the running light wire.
You can get T-taps at most local auto stores. I just used a probe to find the running light wire.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,829
Likes: 0
From: OC,NY
You can tap into the power from the wire on the top bulb (the small one which would normally illuminate the lic plate.And El Supremo is right you do not need a load equalizer.Then just ground properly and you are good to go.If you can I would try to carefully cut down the threads on the bolts a little.I know wires run through them but I did it on my sporty. They look like they are almost hitting your fender.With vibration and such I think it would wind up scratching your paint sooner or later.And with out a doubt put some type of protective covering(shrink wrap etc) over those exposed wire .They have a very thin casing on them.The red wire in the pic looks like it is being pinched pretty good already another reason to cut the threads down a little.If left that way, I'm sure it wouldnt take long to cut through the casing and create exposed wiring and a short .Hope this helps Tom
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 189
From: Newcastle, Ca.
I had these and they work great. Like Malinger, I cut the studs down to clear the fender better. It can be done, just gotta take your time and be careful not to cut the wires. I also soldered mine into the running light wire. Its in you manual schematic. You could also splice it to your license plate light wire. No load balancer needed. If you lived in the Sac area I'd help you.
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Just my preference, I would not use any kind of quick splice. Good old fashioned solder some dielectric grease and the shrink wrap tubing is the way to go.
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