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Progressive "drop in" springs for Heritage

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  #11  
Old 10-22-2010, 12:49 PM
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It can be done without taking off the front wheel.

Put the bike up on the jack.

Remove the headlamp and tins.

Remove the handlebars (easier to remove the risers , that way you dont have to adjust your bars later. Just 2 bolts)

Remove the top fork caps (they are not under spring pressure)

Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolts and slide the fork tubes down about 3 inches

Remove the plugs (they unscrew) Theses are under spring pressure

Remove the springs and replace with kit and spacers

Reasemble

I agree change out the fork oil to SE heavy when you do it, makes a big difference.
 
  #12  
Old 10-22-2010, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by XARAN
It can be done without taking off the front wheel.

Put the bike up on the jack.

Remove the headlamp and tins.

Remove the handlebars (easier to remove the risers , that way you dont have to adjust your bars later. Just 2 bolts)

Remove the top fork caps (they are not under spring pressure)

Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolts and slide the fork tubes down about 3 inches

Remove the plugs (they unscrew) Theses are under spring pressure

Remove the springs and replace with kit and spacers

Reasemble

I agree change out the fork oil to SE heavy when you do it, makes a big difference.
Thank you, seems pretty straight forward..just a few questions?

The tins, that you are refering too, that's the front panel that sits behind the head light? If so, is that a pain in the *** to remove?


If I loosen the pinch bolts and slide the forks down 3 inches, won't that drop the front end out of the triple tree?

The plugs are under spring pressure....how hard do I need to bare down when removing these bad boys?
 
  #13  
Old 10-22-2010, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Brancajd
Thank you, seems pretty straight forward..just a few questions?

The tins, that you are refering too, that's the front panel that sits behind the head light? If so, is that a pain in the *** to remove?


If I loosen the pinch bolts and slide the forks down 3 inches, won't that drop the front end out of the triple tree?

The plugs are under spring pressure....how hard do I need to bare down when removing these bad boys?
`
Yes the sheet metal around the forks behind the headlight., comes off with a few bolts, be careful not to bend it

Lower the fork tubes about 3 inches to just above the bottom triple clamp so you have room to remove the caps and springs, You can do it withut taking the fork tubes out completely.

The plugs are under spring pressure, but nothing you cant control with your hand, just be aware of it so it does not suprise you. When you put the new drop in kit in the lower you go with it the less preload pressure so it is easy to install the caps/ plugs
 
  #14  
Old 10-22-2010, 02:25 PM
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Thanks for your insight! The springs should be here by next Tuesday. Once I do the job, I will post my results. I do recall from the progressive website/instructions, to use the 3" spacer. I will buy the SE heavy duty fork oil as suggested.
 
  #15  
Old 10-22-2010, 03:04 PM
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I agree change out the fork oil to SE heavy when you do it, makes a big difference.
Is this necessary to keep a lowered front end from bottoming out?

The reason I ask, is because it will stiffen the ride. I didn't care for the heavy oil when I tried it (stock front end).
 
  #16  
Old 10-22-2010, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Brancajd
Thanks for your insight! The springs should be here by next Tuesday. Once I do the job, I will post my results. I do recall from the progressive website/instructions, to use the 3" spacer. I will buy the SE heavy duty fork oil as suggested.
The spacer is one long piece of PCV you have to cut it for your fitment.If you want the full 2" drop. If I remember correct 3" sounds right.But it will tell you in the instructions
 
  #17  
Old 10-22-2010, 07:23 PM
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It can be done by not pulling your tire, fender, and fork legs off. But it will be a little hard to bring the forks the 3" down out off the triple tree. Sometimes you have to wiggle the forks side to side to bring them down out of the tree. Also if you do not remove them completly you will have to use the drain screws that are at the bottom of the fork tube to drain the oil, just remember to buy new drain screws with new crush washers. When I did mine I was told that in order to get most of the oil out you need to pump the shock (not sure how ture this is) and when you refill it you have to pump it as well. If anyone knows please chim in. If you did your rear shocks you should have no prob with the front. If you have any questions feel free to pm me. Im not a pro at this but I have taken my front end off a few times and adjusted the hight.
 
  #18  
Old 10-24-2010, 10:10 AM
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Thanks to everyone who has chimed in...appreciate the support and feedback. Santo, you're right, there shouldn't be any problems...but I'm one of theose types who will agonize over the limitless possibilities of Murphy rearing his ugly head, Anxiety freek, I KNOW! LOL!
 
  #19  
Old 10-24-2010, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Faast Ed
Is this necessary to keep a lowered front end from bottoming out?

The reason I ask, is because it will stiffen the ride. I didn't care for the heavy oil when I tried it (stock front end).
Good question...
She rides like a cadillac now. The last thing I want, is for her to ride like a cement truck...LOL!
 
  #20  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:26 AM
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The ride is a bit stiffer in a good way IMO. I don't regreat lowering mine one bit. Although it's not for everyone. Try lowering it just 1'' at first. If your worried about ol' murphy don't take any short cuts and do it right the first time.
 


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