4"or 6" Risers on fatboy lo
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
4"or 6" Risers on fatboy lo
I would like to know if i can use the HD 6" curved risers on fatboy lo without changing cables and lines. And can someone post picture of the lo with either 4"or 6" curved risers and stock bars. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
From: Leesville, SC
I put the 6" one on mine without changing cables or lengthening the wires. I did have to move the throttle and brake cables to the out side of the bars. And take the strap of off the brake cable under the steering neck. I put the strap back on an run a zip-tie through it loosely around the brake cable. No more reaching for the bars and getting the ache in my back.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 2
From: Gainesville, FL
I'm surprised you got the 6" risers to work. I went down the riser road when I tried to improve the position of the handlebars and the dealer told me the risers wouldn't clear the tank and console. I'm guessing they must have been 4". I don't remember since it was a while back.
Eventually, I went with the street slammers and had all the wiring/cables rerun and replaced.
I didn't think I would but I ended up liking the street slammer handlebars better in the long run.
Eventually, I went with the street slammers and had all the wiring/cables rerun and replaced.
I didn't think I would but I ended up liking the street slammer handlebars better in the long run.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 61
From: Albany, OR
The 4" will fit fine without switching out the cables or wiring. I was running that for a while before I switched to standard FB bars and the 4" risers. With that combo on a Lo I had to get new cables, standard FB length. I'm still running the stock wires, just not down through the top of the trees. You could probably go with the 6" easy, wires should be fine, the cables might be snug.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 19
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Thanks for all the info i will be picking up 4" riser tomorrow and install them on Saturday. Last day of class. Have a week to install.
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 61
From: Albany, OR
I suggest making up a bungie cord rig to hold up the bars as you unclamp them. Most people, me included, put a towel on the tank and rest them on there, but a hanging rig would be better. Be sure you loosen the riser bolts before you remove the bars. 
When you put the new risers on take your time to get everything straight. Use red loctite on the riser bolts.
If you have to remove the wiring from going through the top of the triple trees for more slack, you'll need to slide the tank back far enough to unplug the wiring. Just unbolt the tank (front and rear, remove the seat), remove the fuel hose at the rear quick disconnect, and slide it back. It will go back far enough to unplug the wiring plugs, one of the left, two on the right. Pull them back up through the triple trees and then route back down and plug back in.
When you put the new risers on take your time to get everything straight. Use red loctite on the riser bolts.If you have to remove the wiring from going through the top of the triple trees for more slack, you'll need to slide the tank back far enough to unplug the wiring. Just unbolt the tank (front and rear, remove the seat), remove the fuel hose at the rear quick disconnect, and slide it back. It will go back far enough to unplug the wiring plugs, one of the left, two on the right. Pull them back up through the triple trees and then route back down and plug back in.
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2010
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Likes: 1
Just installed the 4" risers and they worked great. It took longer to straighten the handlebar out then it took to install the risers. Total time was about 1Hr. But It was worth it. Payed $ 145.00 for the risers and installed them myself. Alot cheaper then the Street slammer. Parts for the Street slammers $750.00 and 1050.00 in labor. They said the labor is so high because of the ABS.
