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Did you route the new cable the same way as the old?
Maybe it's binding the cable causing the slack to be taken up?
I noticed in the other thread you had no slack in the cable even with the cable adjuster all the way in trying to add freeplay.
OK, I still need some help.
Anyone want to come over for dinner and help me fix this thing.
Did everything again:
Set according to video, took out the slack in the cable and still nothing.
Bike will not roll (in gear with the clutch pulled in).
If you adjusted the clutch pack like the video, go back to your cable adjustment and tighten it up until you can pull the clutch cable out of the handle bracket about a nickels width. Some like more slack at the hand lever but I find if I can pull the cable out of the pivot bracket the width of a nickel it works good on my night train. Good luck on your project.
If you adjusted the clutch pack like the video, go back to your cable adjustment and tighten it up until you can pull the clutch cable out of the handle bracket about a nickels width. Some like more slack at the hand lever but I find if I can pull the cable out of the pivot bracket the width of a nickel it works good on my night train. Good luck on your project.
Thanks
As far as I can tell, that is exactly what I did.
Hope I can get some friends over tomorrow to help me out.
The picture you posted of the transmission cover/cable mount looked correct.
How does it feel when you try to engage the clutch?
Meaning does it feel smooth when you squeeze the lever? Do you notice any binding?
After watching that video, a couple of things come to mind. Although the guy is basically correct in his how-to description, he's a bit ham-fisted. For one thing, I don't like that he pulls the adjuster boot down without relieving the tension up top. That's a good way to break the cable ferrule. I think it's better to slide/roll the boot up so that the top edge stays tight against the elements. Also, tightening the clutch jam nut by using a cockeyed open-end wrench like he shows will never get it tight enough and is likely to result in rounding off the nut or damaging something. Is it possible that in doing it his way that you allowed the allen adjuster to move while tightening the nut? The best way I've found to tackle this job is to use an offset box wrench, put in place before using the allen adjuster. This allows you to get a firm grip on both so you don't inadvertantly move the adjuster while tightening the jam nut. Another equally good way is to grind two flats into the back of an 11/16 deep socket, so that you can hold it with a standard open-end wrench, which allows you to poke the allen adjuster through the hole in the socket.
One more thing... and sorry if this sounds stupid, but I don't know your mechanical knowledge of these bikes. How are you determining that the clutch is not disengaging? If you have the bike on a lift and are thinking that with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled, you should be able to spin the rear wheel freely... not so. A wet clutch will never disengage like being in neutral.
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