Cam sugestions please
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Japan
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 831
Likes: 14
From: Delawere
I just sent off an email to Jamie at fuel moto re: his 107" kit. I do not know of any indys near here but have been looking for one to do a dyno tune.
I have a patient at work that has a bike lift and all the tools and was a mechanic for years plus has three bikes so I am going to talk to him tomorrow and see if he wants to do a 107" kit with me. Fuel motos kit looks good and has the Woods-555 cams. I was trying to save some cash up before doing the 107" but it makes sense to do it at one time ( I hope). I do not know if fuel moto has maps for the PC-5 yet for this set up but will see.
If you were going to do the 107" would you also have the heads done at the same time or is it not worth it? I have been looking at head work on the web and seeing prices from $350 up.
Also I am aware that a 2 into 1 exhaust is the way to go to get the most from this but I will be keeping the V&H big radius with big city baffles for now do the $$$$$. Any ideas on HP/TQ loss compared to a 2 into 1 exhaust? I see fuel moto dyno sheets have the jackpot exhaust.
I have a patient at work that has a bike lift and all the tools and was a mechanic for years plus has three bikes so I am going to talk to him tomorrow and see if he wants to do a 107" kit with me. Fuel motos kit looks good and has the Woods-555 cams. I was trying to save some cash up before doing the 107" but it makes sense to do it at one time ( I hope). I do not know if fuel moto has maps for the PC-5 yet for this set up but will see.
If you were going to do the 107" would you also have the heads done at the same time or is it not worth it? I have been looking at head work on the web and seeing prices from $350 up.
Also I am aware that a 2 into 1 exhaust is the way to go to get the most from this but I will be keeping the V&H big radius with big city baffles for now do the $$$$$. Any ideas on HP/TQ loss compared to a 2 into 1 exhaust? I see fuel moto dyno sheets have the jackpot exhaust.
Last edited by coronerrpm; Jan 9, 2011 at 08:27 PM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Japan
You have a patient a work that has a lift and all the tools...??? Dude, you're a coroner...LOL.
You're probably looking at a 15-20% torque loss with your 2-2 pipe, plus balancer on your 96b motor, compared to a 96a w/a good 2-1 exhaust system. Do the 107" kit from FM and you'll be far from hurtin', tho.
You're probably looking at a 15-20% torque loss with your 2-2 pipe, plus balancer on your 96b motor, compared to a 96a w/a good 2-1 exhaust system. Do the 107" kit from FM and you'll be far from hurtin', tho.
Last edited by HoggyMtnBreakdown; Jan 9, 2011 at 09:15 PM.
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Delawere
You have a patient a work that has a lift and all the tools...??? Dude, you're a coroner...LOL.
You're probably looking at a 15-20% torque loss with your 2-2 pipe, plus balancer on your 96b motor, compared to a 96a w/a good 2-1 exhaust system. Do the 107" kit from FM and you'll be far from hurtin', tho.
You're probably looking at a 15-20% torque loss with your 2-2 pipe, plus balancer on your 96b motor, compared to a 96a w/a good 2-1 exhaust system. Do the 107" kit from FM and you'll be far from hurtin', tho.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Out of Commiefornia!
I doubt seriously that you'll lose 15-20% with your BRR, but again not an expert. If you're going with a displacement upgrade, and can afford it, get the head work done at the same time. You will be happy with the big bore, proper cam to take advantage of the displacement, and having the heads worked.
Realize that deciding to do a displacement upgrade will likely change the criteria for deciding the proper cam, and will actually open up the possibilities considerably.
Roger
Realize that deciding to do a displacement upgrade will likely change the criteria for deciding the proper cam, and will actually open up the possibilities considerably.
Roger
I am running the TW-555 in a 96" only other mods are 2-1 and SE AC. HUGE difference in the way the bike rides. Unfortunately I was on duty this passed weekend and now the roads are frozen, so no riding for me.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
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From: Newcastle, Ca.
You will need to do headwork with a cammed 107". On the later model bikes a cam swap is not that difficult. Your peak numbers with a 2n1 and 2n2 may not be all that different BUT the area under the curve, total tq, will be more - something you would feel when riding. If you decide on the 107" go with a builder, a proven combination. Choosing a bolt in cam is not as complicated . Larger displacement, increased compression, headwork, cams, exhaust and the tune need to work together. Lastly, the larger the build, the less impact a 2n1 has.
Like brettnbama says - a cam, 2n1 and a good tune will make a big difference.
Like brettnbama says - a cam, 2n1 and a good tune will make a big difference.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 868
Likes: 1
From: Trenton,N.J.
I am thinking of doing a cam swap since winter is never going to end but not really sure about a few things and I do not know of a local indy so I thought I would throw it out here.
My 2010 96" is stock other that a PC-5, V&H big radius and the SE air kit with K&N filter. I had it dyno'd last year and got 70.83max power and 85.44 torque.
There are so many brands out there (Tman-SE-woods) and lift/duration types that I have no idea what to go with. What type of increase in power and torque can I expect from a swap and is it worth it? I wanted to do a displacement increase also but it is not in the cards due to funds at this time so just a cam swap.
Thanks
My 2010 96" is stock other that a PC-5, V&H big radius and the SE air kit with K&N filter. I had it dyno'd last year and got 70.83max power and 85.44 torque.
There are so many brands out there (Tman-SE-woods) and lift/duration types that I have no idea what to go with. What type of increase in power and torque can I expect from a swap and is it worth it? I wanted to do a displacement increase also but it is not in the cards due to funds at this time so just a cam swap.
Thanks
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 401
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From: Hershey, Pennsylvania
When I asked the dealer and did some research on this myself (hoping to pull the trigger in a couple of months for the work) the dealer told me that putting in aftermarket cams could violate the warranty on the engine (if you have one).
Just something to consider.
The example they gave me, and they walked me over to the bike, was a guy who did an indy cam swap and had some compression and performance issues afterwords. When the dealer tore down the engine to find out the problem, they saw the after market cams and then had to call the guy to tell him he was on the hook for the entire repair. The fixed the bike, but it cost.
SE's won't violate the engine warranty, but the cams themselves are considered "performance parts" just like an entire 103 upgrade is, and is only given a 90 day guarantee.
Just something to consider.
The example they gave me, and they walked me over to the bike, was a guy who did an indy cam swap and had some compression and performance issues afterwords. When the dealer tore down the engine to find out the problem, they saw the after market cams and then had to call the guy to tell him he was on the hook for the entire repair. The fixed the bike, but it cost.
SE's won't violate the engine warranty, but the cams themselves are considered "performance parts" just like an entire 103 upgrade is, and is only given a 90 day guarantee.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Toronto, Ontario
I have been through the same story myself, I was told by my Indy that since I have a 'light' bike (i.e. not touring), I should go with the Andrews37 and then add the rest later.
The 26/21 or milder cams would be better under 2500RPM but the difference is not noticeable and in his opinion not worth the effort, I was adding the cam mind you just because I was changing the cam chain tensioners into hydraulics.
Another popular choice is to use the TW6-6 with n4Gear which shifts the RPM range a bit lower, and then later when you do the big bore and/or compression/head work, you can remove the gear.
Finally, remember, it is a balance , the more you modify, the more you need to worry about lifters, springs, etc, and the more you need to do maintenance work on your engine more frequently.
Peace.
The 26/21 or milder cams would be better under 2500RPM but the difference is not noticeable and in his opinion not worth the effort, I was adding the cam mind you just because I was changing the cam chain tensioners into hydraulics.
Another popular choice is to use the TW6-6 with n4Gear which shifts the RPM range a bit lower, and then later when you do the big bore and/or compression/head work, you can remove the gear.
Finally, remember, it is a balance , the more you modify, the more you need to worry about lifters, springs, etc, and the more you need to do maintenance work on your engine more frequently.
Peace.
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