2000 Nightrain. A month ago I had a HOT to GROUND short but fixed the issue. Everything's been fine until a few days ago. Took the wife out to eat and when we jumped on to head home, it kicked over and died completely. No lights, no nothing. Moved the ignition over to the accessory side and still not lights.

I towed it home and did some quick checks. Battery is holding 12-13 volts and no fuses are blown.


Any ideas?

 

With nothing working I would think its got to be something to do with the battery, probably a dumb question but is it properly connected.

 

check to see if you have 12 volts at the fuse panel with the ign on.. if all fuses are dead, check the ign switch.. i don't know how many wires are connected to the ign switch on your bike, but there should be at least 1 hot wire from the batt with 12v all the time, when you turn the ign switch on you should see voltage on at least 1, maybe 2 other wires, if not the switch is bad.

 

Since you had a HOT to GROUND short a month ago, a cell in the battery could have shorted out. Put a load test on battery to rule out a bad cell. Remove and clean both cables and reconnect - make sure they are tight.

 

I hate Elc issues.. they don't make sense to us mechanical dudes.
I just always start at the basics, check out all the simple stuff, like, Battery, cables, fuses..

Then If I cant find it, usually, I call or take it to a PRO... just me....

If U bought used, then its hard to know whats been done before U got her,, and IMO makes it a Lot tougher to run down issues.




..

 

Absolutely! I'm the 3rd owner of my scoot and the previous DIY'er was worse than me, almost unimaginable. He had jumpers from ACC to stock lights and the front blinkers inside the forks.... I think he was trying to kill me after the fact!

So if used get a Clymers and be really flipping patient.

Good luck bro!

 

No lights no nothing is probably not a bad battery... especially if showing voltage when you got home.

It isn't your ignition switch I don't think because you would still have lights if it's wired like mine.

There is a main circuit breaker somewhere under your seat... depending upon your model. It isn't in the fuse box.

It's a simple thing to check to see if you have power to the ign. switch. If you don't, work back from there. If you do then you will need a wiring diagram.

Good luck.

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Put a volt meter on the battery............if you have 12 volts.......then turn on the ign and lights........if it drops to 0 volts or 1 0r 2.......it's the battery. a battery with a internal burnt off post can show 12 volts and 0 amps

 

Thanks for all the feedback. Awesome to have a place to go for advice. Here is what I've found so far. Today was the first day I had time to look at it and used the HD service manual along the way.

batt is good.
fuses not blown
30amp circuit breaker is good
ignition switch good

I noticed a lot of oil on the lower front around the volt-regulator. none of the moisture went above the crankshaft sensor which led me to believe something was leaking at the strator plug. I removed the volt regulater (dirty as hell I might ad) and when I disconnected it, oil poured out of the connectors. Obviously electrical connectors and fluids don't mix.

I did some web searching and learned leakage around the strator-plug was common. Leakage around the boot could be fixed by heat resistant sealant, inner leaks through the cables (which is what I have) cannot be rigged up to work, the strator needs to be replaced. I also check resistances per manual and found the strator to be bad performing 2 different checks. There is full continuity between both connector pins to ground which should not be. Continuity between pins should be .1ohm-.2ohm, anything lower indicates bad strator. Mine registers .000 aka- wide open circuit.

I have not yet tested the volt-regulator, still trying to figure that out. As far as the ignition switch, there is 12v in the center position, none in the Acc and Ignition side, but the 2 sections do in fact probe out ok. I need to run to Autozone tomorrow to get a light tester for the volt-regulator. I already have a HD tech lined up just in case I can't figure it all out by Monday.

On a side note, I called local HD shop to get pricing on Voltage-Regulator, Strator and Primary gasket...DAMN!!! 2-3times what I can get from after market sellers. But then we all know that's no shocker.

 

Thanks for the update. That's not one that I have heard of or seen. As for the VR, something like a varying 13+/- volts going in, a consitent 12.3V going I would be what I would expect. Might be more going in on a new bike... point is, it should just be consistent. It doesn't make sense, I don't think, to test it's guts. You fix the stator and see if you can get the bike running by cleaning the VR with some brake cleaner, then some electronic cleaner. Then test the VR... that would be my approach, but I've never heard of this so it's only a guess...

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