Well, I have searched on this site and on the web trying to find out instructions on how to remove and install the front brake switch in the front master cylinder. I just got my 2009 FXSTC back from the dealer for its regular scheduled maintenance and I didn't notice that the brake light was stuck "on" and he refuses to do anything with it. Well, I will have my own hand at it!

Thanks!

 

Time to get a manual, huh? Any way, you need to remove the control housing. It's possible the switch is out of place. When you open the housing, the switch is held in place with a V-shaped spring. A pretty fragile set-up, really. Being careful when you take the top housing off, see if the switch can be moved back in place. If that doesn't help, you're gonna be doing work I can't describe right now. (lack of time) Just be GENTLE with the switch. Good luck!

 

First off, your dealer is a douche for not doing anything about it. The question is, who broke it? Where levers just installed?

It is a fairly simple fix, and it is explained throughout several posts on here. I've had my hands on this a couple of times now, and the second one literally only took 20 mins start to finish.

I'll try to briefly summarize from the top of my head, and you should get the just of it.

1) If in the morning, get a cup-o-coffee, and have a smoke. If at night, get a few beers and some smokes.
2) Have a tall table, or bench to the RHS of the bike - it makes a great laydown area for the parts, etc.
3) Rip the top flap from your pack of smokes, and fold it a couple of times to make a shim that you can wedge in your brake lever to keep it compressed. This is the step that gets forgotten, and on re-assembly, you have to start all over at step 1.
4) Get a T25 to loosen the two screws to your switch control and open up the two halves.
5) Cut any wire ties.
6) Get the smallest torx bit you have to remove the hard to see screw that holds the wires to the switch assembly.
7) Since your switch is likely screwed anyway, the boot will likely tear at the plunger when you remove it. I just used a small flathead to pry it out. Note the spring position and remove it also. This holds the switch in place.
8) Cut the wire flush at the old switch. Leave about 2.5" on the new switch and solder the leads. I used an aftermarket switch where the wire colours and positions were not at the same locations, but it worked anway - It doesn't matter which wire goes to which as it is non-directional.
9) Have shrink wrap pre-installled sliding it on the wires, and solder the leads carefully. The overlay the wrap and heat it till snug.
10) Carefully install the new switch, and pay close attention to avoid tearing the plunger boot, or breaking the god foresaken weak button head on the switch.
11) Re-route and tie the wires close to how you found them and reassemble everything.
12) Once the switch housing is re-installed, remove the cardboard shim and try it out.

It really is a simple procedure, but it is way easier to avoid breaking it in the first place, just 1 simple cardboard shim.

 

I've actually read where a couple of guys have actually glued a new piece of plastic on to the broken nub of the switch and never had to actually remove it. Just remove the lever, glue the piece of plastic on and when cured, re-install the lever(using the cardboard shim of course).

 

If you don't put the wedge in the brake leave like the post above said you will break the nipple off the swicth. I did it. to fix it without replacing the swicth, there will be a small hole on the face of the swicth where the nipple broke off, take a very small screw and screw it in the hole. the head of the screw will now act as the nipple. read about it on this fourm awhile back and it works. plus your right about getting the swicth out, its not cut and dry on how to do it a the manual

 

as mentioned earlier, the brake light switch is easy to access under the throttle side control cover. it is not in the master cylinder. if it is indeed the issue, replace the switch rather than rigging it. you have a HD, not some mud machine where "rigging" at times is acceptable.

i had a simular issue with my 09 Fatboy. the o-ring seal on the plunger in the master cylinder was defective thus not allowing the plunger to fully extend to allow the front brake lever to contact the switch, to cancel the brake light.

 

If you search out "Brake lever switch", you'll find that this happens alot, and most people opt for the buttonhead screw trick, it's cheap, easy, and it wont break again. Take a look at the guys who have done this and I think you'll agree, not one "mud machine" in the lot.

 

Issues like this is why I go over my bike before and after anyone works on it with the ticket writer and note on paper any flaw my bike has. I know where they are at.

It helps prove if they mess something up while working on her .



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There's the fix - I know you're not trusting the dealership right now, but if they dorked it up during service = they're obligated to fix. Call/talk to the Service manager...JMO.