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Guys before I pull all my hair out I need your help. So callig all guys with Pro One triple trees. Most know this story already but if not here it goes. Got my train back in march and noticed the neck was super lose. I have the pro one 0* rake trees with signals. Ok so I tighten up the stem bolt and it's now tight well too tight I really had no fall away even at only 9 lbs torque. And the bike won't track at 35-40 mpg it wants to walk side to side (but found I have a bad rear wheel bearing so hop that the fix 11k miles only too nice). Anyway I took the front end all apart last week and put new Timken bearings in her. The races looked smooth still so they stayed in. Also the stem to the top tree was tight. I could not even bust her free to re tighten and red locktite her so I left that alone. Put the new bearings in and pumped her full of grease some Lucas red and tacky #2. It's no at 15lbs torque and there is a small amount of neck slop and steering is ok but fails the fall away test big time like no fall at all. Now here is the sucky part. To get no play in the neck the steering is way too tight side to side like cant even drive tight. And to get nice and proper fall away and fluid side to side steering the neck is too lose like way too lose. So guys WTF is going on here! I'm going to go mad. I called pro one and their tech guy is gone for a week. The guy I talked to said sounds like I need to shim it ah idk about that. Called a few local Indy shops they really did not know either. At a loss here guys.
I'm at a loss, racking my brain but can't think of anything that might be bad in the setup. Maybe post some close up pics of the neck and trees both together and apart if you have any. Someone might see something that doesn't quite look right. The pro ones are pretty basic in terms of setup....could the neck shaft be bent? I remember you saying the old bearings looked oblong. Not sure what else would cause that. Post pics, something might jump out at us.....
Thanks John, yeah man me too this is nuts. And I'm thinking the bearing was messed up cause I tapped on it to get it off the stem. And stem to me looked straight. Your right the pro one setup is basic nothing to it. Unless my top race is lose but I doubt it. Bottom was tight I could not move it.
Read they are a bitch to get out. Wonder if I could heat them up them freeze them with an upside down air in a can to do a rapid heat then cold to shrik it to pop them out.
If you can weld, they can be welded out. That's how I removed mine. Run a bead around the face of the race, and when the weld cools it shrinks enough to make the race pop right out. Gotta be careful though, if you wander off you'll end up buggering up the neck, then you're really up ***** creek!
Story808 just did a tree swap on his Train, might want to PM him and see if he's got a race puller. I have a race press already modified for the concealed stop that you can borrow if needed. It's really not a bad job if you've got the right tools.
Your races bad... When you change bearing you change races! you can buy just the internal race from pro one for the bottom and the top race you all ready have since you didn't use it... I used a jims race installer and pulled I borrowed from Ash... And it worked really good.
Now about your torque... 15 pound?... Mine is at 45 pounds on the stem bolt?
Just a heads up if you get the pulled/installer to remove the lower internal stop race you'll need to cut the the tongue off the internal stop race with a cut off wheel.
Last edited by story808; May 30, 2012 at 05:14 AM.
Thanks John for the pics. I can't weld lol so might go another way.
Story, I did see pro one has a new lower race for $31 and info still have the two from my new bearings I could use up top. And yeah only 15 pounds man crazy huh? Anymore on it and you can't steer at all it's too tight.
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