Fxstd problem, please advise!
2000 soft tail deuce, getting off interstate, speedo failed, stuck at 48mph, bike died, won't start. Popped accessory fuse, replaced it, disconnected battery, Reconnected battery, turn on ign switch, pop fuse.
Took speed sensor off of 2000 heritage, install on deuce, no good. Replaced ecu, no good. Replaced ign switch, speedo, no good.
Disconnected harness plugins under gas tank to all switches, controls, headlight, and rear lights, disconnected ecu, map sensor, still popped acc fuse at turn of new switch. I replaced voltage reg as well. No good. Anyone have a clue as to what this could be?
Took speed sensor off of 2000 heritage, install on deuce, no good. Replaced ecu, no good. Replaced ign switch, speedo, no good.
Disconnected harness plugins under gas tank to all switches, controls, headlight, and rear lights, disconnected ecu, map sensor, still popped acc fuse at turn of new switch. I replaced voltage reg as well. No good. Anyone have a clue as to what this could be?
Last edited by bartallica2006; Jul 24, 2012 at 11:32 PM.
I'm no electrical guru, but it sounds to me like you have a short to ground somewhere. Anywhere a power wire runs along the frame is someplace to check. Possibly a wire near exhaust or engine where heat could have melted the wire thru. I know of one wire that runs along the frame down by the rear brake line that is in a vulnerable spot. Good luck and let us know what happens.
According to my 2002 softail electrical manual if you unplug R/L hand controls and the speedo, turn on the switch and the fuse blows (ACCY 15 amp) you have a short somewhere in the main wire harness. It is an orange wire with white stripe going to pin 1 of each of those connectors. It also goes to the rear lighting plug, pin 2, and the rear brake light switch. Rear brake light switch (red/yellow stripe) goes to pin 2 of right hand controls plug and pin 6 of rear lighting plug
Sounds like you have been using a very expensive diagnosis process . . . what with all the parts you've replaced so far. The best advice at this point would be to take the bike to a qualified technician who has the Service Manuals, a Voltmeter . . . . and knows how to use them. Trust me . . . at the rate you're going you will be serious money ahead in the long run. You might stumble on the problem with the next thing you do or part you change . . . but then again there are a lot of electrical parts on the bike . . . and you've only just begun!
I can't believe I am saying this, but I have to agree. Like the O/P, I always try to fix it first myself first. But at this point your going to have more into the repair than it would have cost to just get it fixed by a guy who can fix it fast, and give you a warranty. One of my club brothers is going through the exact same thing as you. He replaced the coil, the module, the handle bar switches, plugs, wires, and has about 15 hours time with me and him chasing ghosts. Took the shop about an hour to find a short and he's back on the road for a third of what he's already spent. Rather than parts swap, at least let a shop look at it and give you a quote.
The Voltage regulator surged and fried nearly everything on the bike. I replaced the TSSM and fixed the speedo/accessory fuse issue. The ignition coil, crank position sensor, and bank angle sensor had to be ordered and will be in tomorrow. I went to my local dealer and found out that this is not a common occurence, but it is known to happen.
I went through the entire wire harness and found not one chaffed wire. I did a DTC with the odometer, and the only codes I now have are the CKPS, and BAS. I hate electrical problems
I went through the entire wire harness and found not one chaffed wire. I did a DTC with the odometer, and the only codes I now have are the CKPS, and BAS. I hate electrical problems
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