Just realized. Harley ain't too userfriendly.
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 436
Likes: 3
From: Norway
Just realized. Harley ain't too userfriendly.
Just got in after changing the rear tire on my Bones. And damn, that took a while. I didn't even bother to check the manual before leaving to change my tire. But I soon realized that this wasn't a 5 min job like on my old bike ( ZXR ).
After a while I kind of figured out that I had to remove the brake and the beltguard, and it was still a bit#% to both get the wheel out, and to get it back in with all the washers. Friggin tight in betwenn the swingarm.
I just checked the manual to see if I really had to go through all that just to change the tire, and I guess I did.
I'm not the most experienced when it comes to wrenching, so I bet a lot/all of you guys can do it faster. But I used 3-4 hours, including some problems with getting the new tire on the rim. On my old bike, I probably used 20-30 min....
Not looking forward to servicing the front end, if its the same kind of deal. Hehe....
After a while I kind of figured out that I had to remove the brake and the beltguard, and it was still a bit#% to both get the wheel out, and to get it back in with all the washers. Friggin tight in betwenn the swingarm.
I just checked the manual to see if I really had to go through all that just to change the tire, and I guess I did.
I'm not the most experienced when it comes to wrenching, so I bet a lot/all of you guys can do it faster. But I used 3-4 hours, including some problems with getting the new tire on the rim. On my old bike, I probably used 20-30 min....
Not looking forward to servicing the front end, if its the same kind of deal. Hehe....
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
so, did you get a laser pointer or something to ensure that your belt was lined back up straight? and removing the front tire is much easier than the rear.. it takes me 15 minutes to disassemble the entire front end on my fatboy lo..bones shouldn't be harder than that
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 436
Likes: 3
From: Norway
A laserwhat??
No I didn't use a laser. I used the same distance on the tensionerbolts on both sides. That's what they're there for right....
Guessing the front is a little more work ( than yours )since its a springer. The same reason I have to service it ( Rocker- and head bearingadjustment)...
No I didn't use a laser. I used the same distance on the tensionerbolts on both sides. That's what they're there for right....
Guessing the front is a little more work ( than yours )since its a springer. The same reason I have to service it ( Rocker- and head bearingadjustment)...
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 766
Likes: 0
From: USA
Making sure your belt alignment is correct. The tensioner bolts will get you close but If you're off a fraction at the bolt it can translate into a severely misaligned belt.
If you don't have a Laser, or can't figure out the string trick, lift the rear wheel off the ground and check the tracking while rotating the wheel. Should turn smoothly on the pulley and not walk around the pulley.
Good luck
If you don't have a Laser, or can't figure out the string trick, lift the rear wheel off the ground and check the tracking while rotating the wheel. Should turn smoothly on the pulley and not walk around the pulley.
Good luck
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 436
Likes: 3
From: Norway
Hmm....
I'm gonna trust the bolts. On racingbikes, there's usually a scale next to the tensioner bolts, which works excellent. Since there isn't on my harley, I used a caliper to meassure the bolts, so they're the same on both sides.
I can't se how using a string on both sides of the bike should be more accurate.
If I can't trust basic stuff like the tensioner bolts, then how do I know if the pulley is alligned to the wheel, or that the swingarm isn't bent ( in which case the stringtrick would make the beltallignment totally off ).
Not that I don't appreciate the advice, but I'm gonna ride it as it is. I've raced bikes with my knee down at 100+mph, and never used anything other than the bolts to align it. And on the racetrack you change tires like kids change diapers. Although these were japanese racebikes, I can't imagine this would be so much more critical on an american cruiser.
BUT, if it is, and I encounter problems. I will swallow my pride, and let you know
I'm gonna trust the bolts. On racingbikes, there's usually a scale next to the tensioner bolts, which works excellent. Since there isn't on my harley, I used a caliper to meassure the bolts, so they're the same on both sides.
I can't se how using a string on both sides of the bike should be more accurate.
If I can't trust basic stuff like the tensioner bolts, then how do I know if the pulley is alligned to the wheel, or that the swingarm isn't bent ( in which case the stringtrick would make the beltallignment totally off ).
Not that I don't appreciate the advice, but I'm gonna ride it as it is. I've raced bikes with my knee down at 100+mph, and never used anything other than the bolts to align it. And on the racetrack you change tires like kids change diapers. Although these were japanese racebikes, I can't imagine this would be so much more critical on an american cruiser.
BUT, if it is, and I encounter problems. I will swallow my pride, and let you know
Last edited by JayOhh; Jul 21, 2012 at 08:25 PM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 94
From: Belgium
I have had my rear wheel out 3 times now (these 200 tires sure don't last long), first time took me 3 hours too ... now goes way faster.
As far as alignment goes, I mark the side of the adjuster bolts, count how many turns I make, and when reinstall wheel, turn them back same amount.
I take the bike out for a spin and check belt position and tension, haven't had to adjust it yet.
Really don't think the guys at dealerships do it any different.
As for the springer front wheel ... much easier. Take of caliper, undo nut and push out axle. Easy. Just make sure you got a new locknut. Better safe then sorry. With the heritage fender I got on now, it's a tad more complicated as fender is only supported by fork on one side.
As far as alignment goes, I mark the side of the adjuster bolts, count how many turns I make, and when reinstall wheel, turn them back same amount.
I take the bike out for a spin and check belt position and tension, haven't had to adjust it yet.
Really don't think the guys at dealerships do it any different.
As for the springer front wheel ... much easier. Take of caliper, undo nut and push out axle. Easy. Just make sure you got a new locknut. Better safe then sorry. With the heritage fender I got on now, it's a tad more complicated as fender is only supported by fork on one side.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23,053
Likes: 12,327
From: Arkansas
Most of these guys treat these bikes like they are made of fine china. Just do what ya been doing and ride the hell out of it. If I wasn't so damn old and beat up I'd go out and ride mine on a motocross track just to show how tough they really are. I put mine through more abuse going up and back on the Alcan that most guys subject theirs to in a lifetime and it's still going strong with a shitload of miles left in it.
BTW mine is Springer also and the front end service isn't that bad. Just make sure if you take the rocker bolts out for any reason you use some good zip ties to hold the forks together or you'll be in for a big surprise. Read the manual before you start tearing into it.
BTW mine is Springer also and the front end service isn't that bad. Just make sure if you take the rocker bolts out for any reason you use some good zip ties to hold the forks together or you'll be in for a big surprise. Read the manual before you start tearing into it.
For me the front is super easy. Takes about 20 minutes. While it was here I checked the fall away and the torque on the rockers too. Greased it and put it back together. Over 15,000 miles and my fall away is still where it should be. I use the manual for all the specs I need.
The rear was a pain but not too bad. Took about 2 hours to do. I didn't need to touch the adjusters. I just loosened the axle and pulled it out. The adjuster bolts just keep the spacers from moving to the front. Even then, I checked the tracking of the belt when I got it all back together.
