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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 03:16 PM
  #51  
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you can get a spanner wrench from the dealer (or from any place that deals with Drag Specalties) to adjust the preload on the rear springs, so you dont bottom out. Theyre only $10.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 03:32 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Fabrikator
you can get a spanner wrench from the dealer (or from any place that deals with Drag Specalties) to adjust the preload on the rear springs, so you dont bottom out. Theyre only $10.
Technically, I wasn't bottoming out. I was just bottoming out because of hitting the license plate bracket which was hitting my fender. I couldn't figure out why it was riding so rough at first until I stopped and saw that the fender was hitting the bracket. I only have it lowered 1-1/2" so actually bottoming out isn't likely...although it does sit down further than I realized when I sit on the bike.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #53  
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Damn man, that looked painful. If it isn't that noticeable, I'd do as mentioned and knock any loose chips off, then touch up (Harley make touchup kits with primer & paint IIRC, so the color would match), then come winter take it off and get repaired...a small area like that should be fairly easy for a shop, even with dent where it is. The curved will look good
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 08:51 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by carpenter115
Damn man, that looked painful. If it isn't that noticeable, I'd do as mentioned and knock any loose chips off, then touch up (Harley make touchup kits with primer & paint IIRC, so the color would match), then come winter take it off and get repaired...a small area like that should be fairly easy for a shop, even with dent where it is. The curved will look good
Yea, I'm gonna ride it to a body shop in the morning to just see how much it is. If its crazy type $, I will just buy some touch up paint like you said and just paint it and keep riding until winter (and winter is only about 2 months here in Cali). If the paint wasn't chipped, you wouldn't even see it unless you bend down and look under the fender. I just hate being cheap and I like my scoot to be perfect. Hoping for the best tomorrow from the bodyshop.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 09:09 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by ghoticov
Yea, I'm gonna ride it to a body shop in the morning to just see how much it is. If its crazy type $, I will just buy some touch up paint like you said and just paint it and keep riding until winter (and winter is only about 2 months here in Cali). If the paint wasn't chipped, you wouldn't even see it unless you bend down and look under the fender. I just hate being cheap and I like my scoot to be perfect. Hoping for the best tomorrow from the bodyshop.
I hear ya. I sent ya info from my service manual for the rest of the stuff
You'll find yourself lookin for stuff to use the dremel on now...I was polishing bolts at one point
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 09:26 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by carpenter115
I hear ya. I sent ya info from my service manual for the rest of the stuff
You'll find yourself lookin for stuff to use the dremel on now...I was polishing bolts at one point
Thanks on the torque info!

Oh man, don't give me any ideas for the dremel!!!!!! HAHAHAHA! That tool rules!
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 11:27 AM
  #57  
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Took the bike this morning to a body shop to get a quote on fixing it. This is a mom n pop shop that has a very good reputation.

They said it would be no more than $200 and they should have a candy apply red that they can shoot through their system that will be a 95% match. He said they use a water base but he said even if the rest of the bike is lacquer based, that is OK...you can mix the two. He said because of where it is (below the chrome piece), he said you won't be able to see the difference.

I have to bring him the fender and the chrome side piece so he can make sure he doesn't paint past that.

Does anyone have a good site that shows how to take off the rear fender? I know it can't be that hard but if it comes down to rewiring things (maybe the blinkers?), it could be tricky for me.
 

Last edited by ghoticov; Jul 23, 2012 at 11:47 AM.
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 11:39 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by ghoticov
Took the bike this morning to a body shop to get a quote on fixing it. This is a mom n pop shop that has a very good reputation.

They said it would be no more than $200 and they should have a candy apply red that they can shoot through their system that will be a 95% match. He said they use a water base but he said even if the rest of the bike is lacquer based, that is OK...you can mix the two. He said because of where it is (below the chrome piece), he said you won't be able to see the difference.

I have to being him the fender and the chrome side piece so he can make sure he doesn't paint past that.

Does anyone have a good site that shows how to take off the rear fender? I know it can't be that hard but if it comes down to rewiring things (maybe the blinkers?), it could be tricky for me.
If you dont have a service manual you should get one. My advice on removing fender is to cover all the exposed paint with that blue painters tape to prevent scratches.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 11:47 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by soft 02
If you dont have a service manual you should get one. My advice on removing fender is to cover all the exposed paint with that blue painters tape to prevent scratches.
I ordered one from one of the local HD dealers but they said it could take 2 weeks to get it.

Isn't there a way for me to view the manual online? Right now I just need the process of removing the fender so I can get it to this body shop in the next few days.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 11:59 AM
  #60  
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Easiest way would be to unplug the rear wiring harness right under the sea then remove the two strut bolts on each strut that connect to frame this way the entire back fender assembly will come off in one piece and make it alot more manageable on a work bench to remove the rest of the parts. It will be alot easier to see and reach them too. The dissasembly is very easy once you get the thing on a bench and can get at the stuff. several bolts a couple light connectors the only thing that is a pain is the black rubber channel that the wireharness runs through mounted under the fender the plugs on either end wont fit through and you best bet is to leave it on the fender just tape up the ends and it should be fine.
 
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