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OK, I need to take my rear wheel off to finish up some shaving of the inner fender liners. My questions is how should I go about doing it to make sure that the belt tensioners end up in the same place as when I remove it.
I removed it previously and had someone do that for me but this time I'm doing all the work on my own and I want to make sure everything gets done correctly.
Try to measure the distance from the center of the swingarm to center of the axle on each side and record it. When you put the wheel back in, make the numbers match. You can back this up by measuring the distance the adjustment bolt is sticking out from the frame on both sides as well.
Just back them off so the axle will slide out. When reassembling, you'll need to reset the belt tension anyway, so just use that as your guide. When the belt is properly tensioned, that is where the adjuster should be. Easiest way to accomplish this is to back them all the way off. Reinstall the axle and snug up the axle nut so it doesn't move freely, but can be moved with a little pressure. Walk the axle back using the adjuster nuts, alternating side to side so the adjusters are approx. equal, until the belt reaches proper tension. I think it's 3/8"-5/8" deflection at 10 lbs of pressure, check your manual for exact numbers. With the bike on a lift, sit behind it and spin the rear wheel forward for a bit, then backward while watching the belt in the pulley. It should not walk around the pulley when changing from forward to backward rotation. If it does, adjust the right side adjuster in small increments until the belt runs a stationary track in both directions. Double check the alignment by measuring the adjusters (should be approx equal both sides), measure from the center of the swingarm pivot to the center of the axle (should be within 1/16" side to side), and then double check that the belt tension is within spec. If the belt ends up too tight after the adjustments, loosen that adjuster slightly and repeat the process. Then torque everything and take it for a shake down ride. Note the location of the belt in the pulley, it should be in the exact same spot at the end of the ride. It can be a lengthy process to get perfect, but your tires and your wallet will thank you for your patience.
I just marked the bolt at 12 oclock with a fine sharpie, counted the half turns I loosened just far enough back to remove the belt without taking the bolt out and reversed the process to put the belt back on.
Village, I will try to find the link. But when I started my 98" build I bought the factory service manual online for 8$ pdf file.
When im out working i just have my laptop with me and can navigate faster than a book for what info I need.
Of course im really young so it seems easier. Im sure some people prefer the hard copy.
You can also print sections you will be using.
It also includes all the electrical manuals and such.
Only 8$ and you get it via email in about 5 minutes
Village, I will try to find the link. But when I started my 98" build I bought the factory service manual online for 8$ pdf file.
When im out working i just have my laptop with me and can navigate faster than a book for what info I need.
Of course im really young so it seems easier. Im sure some people prefer the hard copy.
You can also print sections you will be using.
It also includes all the electrical manuals and such.
Only 8$ and you get it via email in about 5 minutes
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