1st time aligning rear wheel
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 227
Likes: 1
1st time aligning rear wheel
Had a tear down where I had to replace the inner primary, line up the tranny with the engine, the whole 9 yards. In the process I had to loosen the rear wheel hub nut, to take tension off the final drive belt.
In re-installation and realignment, due to the fact I didn't have the "special" tool to apply 10 pounds of pressure on the final driver belt. I pressed down midway on the top of the belt with two fingers (which you can only apply so much tension with two fingers) and adjusted the belt so it had 1/2 inch deflection. Keeping the deflection at 1/2 I adjusted the axle adjuster (measuring each side with the swingarm nut) to about 1/16 under 16 inches on each side, then tightened the locknut. I could rotate the tire pretty smoothly, next the book told me, if the rear axle nut was loosened to torque it to 60-65 ft lbs. I tightened it to 65 and noticed a big difference in how easy the tire rotated while up on a jack. Is this normal? For there to be that much of a difference once that axle bolt is torqued down? I mean, I can still rotate the tire with no problem, but its a lot harder to rotate than when the axle nut was loosened. I'm going to go back and recheck my adjustment after 25-50 miles like the service manual requests.
I'm not a big wheel, hub, suspension mechanic. I think the last time I needed fork seals I took it to Harley to have done. Ran me $250 when a seal costs $10 or something, but I'll rebuild an engine or tranny without a care in the world.
I did the adjustments to the best of my knowledge of what the book told me to do, although this is my first time aligning the wheel and tightening the hub nut. If I did something wrong someone let me know, if it sounds right tell me that too. I'm just still a little uneasy about doing the job, I usually don't like to mess with things that are or could be a safety issue, but I guess its time I learn.
In re-installation and realignment, due to the fact I didn't have the "special" tool to apply 10 pounds of pressure on the final driver belt. I pressed down midway on the top of the belt with two fingers (which you can only apply so much tension with two fingers) and adjusted the belt so it had 1/2 inch deflection. Keeping the deflection at 1/2 I adjusted the axle adjuster (measuring each side with the swingarm nut) to about 1/16 under 16 inches on each side, then tightened the locknut. I could rotate the tire pretty smoothly, next the book told me, if the rear axle nut was loosened to torque it to 60-65 ft lbs. I tightened it to 65 and noticed a big difference in how easy the tire rotated while up on a jack. Is this normal? For there to be that much of a difference once that axle bolt is torqued down? I mean, I can still rotate the tire with no problem, but its a lot harder to rotate than when the axle nut was loosened. I'm going to go back and recheck my adjustment after 25-50 miles like the service manual requests.
I'm not a big wheel, hub, suspension mechanic. I think the last time I needed fork seals I took it to Harley to have done. Ran me $250 when a seal costs $10 or something, but I'll rebuild an engine or tranny without a care in the world.
I did the adjustments to the best of my knowledge of what the book told me to do, although this is my first time aligning the wheel and tightening the hub nut. If I did something wrong someone let me know, if it sounds right tell me that too. I'm just still a little uneasy about doing the job, I usually don't like to mess with things that are or could be a safety issue, but I guess its time I learn.
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 533
Likes: 2
From: Eugene, OR
The Rockers torque spec called for 90-105 ft lbs, but it made no difference in how easy the wheel rotates. The most drag I notice is from the outer rear brake pad. I bought that belt tension tool before I read a post suggesting grabbing the belt and twisting, 45 degrees of rotation and your good. Turns out at 10lbs of deflection my belt twists about 45 degrees. I made my own alignment tool out of a coat hanger, the manual called for 1/32nds accuracy, I think I'm close enough....
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 127
From: Middle of Kansas
I try to adjust mine like the book says, measuring from the center of the swing arm bolt, to the center of the axle. Then rotate the wheel forward and see if the belt is running pretty close to the middle of the pully. It will run to one side if you turn it in reverse. As long as the belt is not touching either side of the pully, you should be good to go.
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