I changed my rear tire after reading the service manual and it stated to count the turns on each side while loosening the axle tensioners...no problem, it was 2 full turns each side. When I went to put the new tire on I turned the axle tensioners 2 full turns in and didnt check to see if they were touching anyhow, long story short I rode around a few hundo miles without axle tensioners. After a friend noticed that they were not touching ...I said oh chit ...well I decided to turn them in so they were touching and not sure if its correct or not.

The wheel naturally pulls to the left due to the drive belt so here is the question:

How do I get the correct amount of tension on both sides of the rear tire once I have lost the rotation count on the axle tensioners?

 

To make sure the wheel is straight count the turns from all the way out on each adjuster and adjust to the same. It's not rocket science but make take a couple fo tries to get used to doing. If you can twist the belt 45 degrees the belt is at the right tension.

 

For belt tension, short of using a tension gauge, you can use the 45 degree method as described or a push up from the bottom of the belt about midway between sprockets. You should get about 3/4-1" of flex.

As far as setting wheel alignment, counting turns is a way but from personal trial and error I found that to be somewhat inaccurate and difficult to manage, especially when you need a fraction of a turn to set the correct tension (unless combined with another technique). The biggest reason this isn't the best method on its own is because its not always the same number of turns on both sides. There may be a fraction of a turn difference between left and right sides. Additionally, counting turns assumes symmetry; that the tapping of the swingarm and threading of the tensioner bolts are identical. The reality is they may start threading in different places. Ergo, 2 turns on the left may not equal 2 turns on the right because it took the right a full turn to engage threads. A wordy example but you get the idea.

Best way I found is to start with the counting turns method to get you close. Then tighten the axle bolt and spin the wheel, watching how your belt tracks in the rear pulley. If the belt is against the outside of the pulley your wheel is canted right. To adjust, loosen the axle bolt, then loosen the left (drivers side) axle adjuster by a fraction of a turn and tighten the right side adjuster by the same amount if needed. Do the opposite if the belt is tracking on the right side of the pulley. Tighten everything down again and spin the wheel. Within 2-3 adjustments you should have the belt tracking close to center on the pulley.

Key points: 1. The tricky part of this is that while you are adjusting for center track on the pulley, you are simultaneously trying to set the belt tension. 2. Tighten the axle bolt every time to check alignment. Many swingarms have flared arms that are pulled together when you tighten the axle bolt. That flaring can throw off alignment and belt tension. You'll think you have it dead on and then you tighten everything and the belt feels so tight like its going to snap.

Bottom line, counting bolt flats, tips, threads, turns, or whatever is a good way to get close. But optimal adjustment is made when you ensure the belt is tracking straight in the pulley.

 

Use the method bensonjv stated to get the wheel aligned straight then I put a mark of fingernail polish or paint on the adjuster bolt and then use a belt tension guage, very cheap but a good tool to invest in. Using the paint marks you can then tighten each adjuster equal turns to get the correct belt tension. I check belt tension with every fluid change. I look at the tensioner tool as a necessary investment to own a bike, like a service manual.

 

Harley goodies thanks for the response, if I ever need floor boards I will know who to talk to.

Bensonjv thanks for the educated response, I will put it on the lift and start tooling around with it using your advice. Thats part of the problem the left and right side tensioners dont thread in evenly and have noticed the belt closer to the left side...tension is good.

To complicate a bit more, what would happen if the tensioners were not adjusted correctly and the belt was a bit to tight?

 

What I do is use the tensioners to get to the right belt tension. (make sure the axle nut is loose, so the adjusters can move the axle... use the belt tension guage thing that applies 10lb force also...) After you get that squared away, to get the alignment, I've always just measured the length of the bolt at the adjuster, and if both sides have the same length of exposed bolt head then they should be in alignment. (provided that the bolts are the same length, and your frame isnt bent. Then torque the axle down. I've never had a problem, but you should obviously take it for a test spin to make sure for yourself.

 

For a double check, measure the distance between the center of the swingarm axle and the rear axle on both sides.

 

all good info when im done w/ apes again,going to put
on my bling bling rotors

 

1 thing to remember is when you go forward the belt goes to the left maybe right(cant remember) and when you back up it goes the opp way so dont go by the belt in the pulley go by the tension on the belt and do the coat hanger with a sharpe trick......90 degree bend on hanger and put it center of pivot bolt on swing arm and mark center of axle nut should be same on both sides

 

dynabob- I like the coat hanger thing....I will do that one and then measure. Ive been riding around on it and dont notice anything different (other than a smooth ride) I notice the belt is riding more to the left and is not perfectly centered though. Ohter than belt snapping off..Is there any kinda indicator that its not correct?