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oil leak from stator plug

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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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Default oil leak from stator plug

I have a oil leak from the stator plug on my flstc 1995, can I just change the stator or I need to change something else ?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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You can just change the grommet that seals the stator. It is a separate piece. But to answer your question yes you need only replace the stator and of course the primary gasket assuming the one you remove cant be reused
 
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 08:37 PM
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The easiest way to repair it is with some RTV (silicone) sealer. Do the RTV correctly and you'll never have a problem again. Both of my bikes have had this done. Here's a link to a thread that describes the process and I've attached a couple of pics... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-oil-leak.html

And these pictures sure make my bike look filthy. I swear it doesn't look that filthy to the naked eye.
 
Attached Thumbnails oil leak from stator plug-stator-grommet-001.jpg   oil leak from stator plug-stator-grommet-003.jpg   oil leak from stator plug-stator-grommet-007.jpg  
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 08:58 PM
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How can you stand to ride such a filthy machine?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
The easiest way to repair it is with some RTV (silicone) sealer. Do the RTV correctly and you'll never have a problem again. Both of my bikes have had this done. Here's a link to a thread that describes the process and I've attached a couple of pics... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-oil-leak.html

And these pictures sure make my bike look filthy. I swear it doesn't look that filthy to the naked eye.
I already use this way with no sucess..leak after 500 miles... I going to try one last time...

Its not easy to put the rtv between the plug and the motor....
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
I swear it doesn't look that filthy to the naked eye.

That third picture surely has CA smog on the primary cover.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by patharley
I already use this way with no sucess..leak after 500 miles... I going to try one last time...

Its not easy to put the rtv between the plug and the motor....
The most important part of the process is cleaning all, and I mean all, of the oil off before applying the RTV. The Limited has had my repair done for over a year now and probably around 20,000 miles without a hint of a leak. The Softail I just did about a month ago.

Originally Posted by RIPSAW
That third picture surely has CA smog on the primary cover.
Yeah. The first two pics are the Softail, the third is the Bagger and it gets wiped off more than ever washed so the engine gets some crud. The pictures make it look like its time for a hose job to the engine... but I swear it doesn't look anything like that bad when you look at it. The flash on the camera really highlights the dirt.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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This has been a problem since I can remember with the Evo. Fact is, the rubber plug and the cavity are both oval in shape. Over time, the rubber plug shrinks into a "dogbone" shape and it no longer fits tightly in the oval hole. This setup worked in the Shovelhead, where you ran essentially a "dry" primary with just a drip feed for the chain, and a scavenging port in the bottom of the primary case to return the oil to the tank. The Evo runs a wet primary with a quart or more of oil circulating, and the plug just can't cope with it

As I always say, "show me an Evo, and I'll show you a leaking stator plug"

Over the years, I've tried just about everything to seal the leak. What finally worked for me (so far) was "flowable" RTV sealant. They sell this stuff in auto parts stores to seal windshield leaks. You need to clean the plug and case area thoroughly with brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner, being sure to get it down into the gap between the case and the plug. Then you apply a bead of the flowable RTV around the plug. In a few minutes it will disappear down inside the gap between the plug and case. Apply some more to be sure you fill the gap, then let it cure overnight.

I really didn't expect it to work, but my bike's been dry for months.
 

Last edited by Uncle G.; Mar 25, 2013 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by chriscalabro
You can just change the grommet that seals the stator. It is a separate piece. But to answer your question yes you need only replace the stator and of course the primary gasket assuming the one you remove cant be reused
On some Evo stators, the grommet is a separate piece, but on the latest revisions of the OEM stator, the grommet (plug) is overmolded onto the wiring, and is not removable. Even if it's removable from the stator, it can't be replaced separately from the stator as it's not sold individually apart from the stator.

This applies to Evos, as I know absolutely nothing about twin cams.
 

Last edited by Uncle G.; Mar 25, 2013 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle G.
This has been a problem since I can remember with the Evo. Fact is, the rubber plug and the cavity are both oval in shape. Over time, the rubber plug shrinks into a "dogbone" shape and it no longer fits tightly in the oval hole. This setup worked in the Shovelhead, where you ran essentially a "dry" primary with just a drip feed for the chain, and a scavenging port in the bottom of the primary case to return the oil to the tank. The Evo runs a wet primary with a quart or more of oil circulating, and the plug just can't cope with it

As I always say, "show me an Evo, and I'll show you a leaking stator plug"

Over the years, I've tried just about everything to seal the leak. What finally worked for me (so far) was "flowable" RTV sealant. They sell this stuff in auto parts stores to seal windshield leaks. You need to clean the plug and case area thoroughly with brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner, being sure to get it down into the gap between the case and the plug. Then you apply a bead of the flowable RTV around the plug. In a few minutes it will disappear down inside the gap between the plug and case. Apply some more to be sure you fill the gap, then let it cure overnight.

I really didn't expect it to work, but my bike's been dry for months.
Ok, I going to try that.
 
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