glass wrap on baffles?
hI, i HAVE 3" RUSH SLIP-ONS. What exactly will happen if I remove the wrap from my baffles and stick-em back in ? What actual pupose does it serve?. I took it off my Vance&Hines slipons on my Roadking and every thing seemed the same. The reason I am asking is I have been playing around with 1 3/4 " & 2" baffles and D&K thunder torque inserts. I am trying to get rid of some popping. they stopped the pop for 50 mi's then the computer seemed to compensate for them and the popping restarted,though not quite as loud. I also dont like the sound as much. I also dont seem to have the low-end grunt I had prior to install. Yea, I know they are supposed to increase low end torque. On an older bike maybe. My '12 not so much.
Last edited by rideflhr; May 27, 2013 at 03:41 PM.
The fiberglass wrap brings down the pitch to a nicer rumble and it keeps the volume a little lower. It won't hurt anything to remove it...but you paid extra for it when you bought the baffles. V & H sells what they call "quiet baffles" and all they are is what you have. They're just fiberglass wrapped baffles. I love and swear by them. I don't know why you'd remove it? But they're your pipes. If you don't like the wrap, rip it off.
Popping usually is a sign of tuning or muffler air leaks.
My Rush at first have really bad decel popping and a few KA-Booms also. I had the Stg 1 with SERT tuner and dyno at the 1K, They couldn't tune it out.
SO I called Rush about it and the tech told me to check for air leaks.. Yeppers that was it,
The wrench didn't get them on correctly and after they re-installed them, and retuned it. Now I have what I call a Gurgle on decell at lower rpm's and the Jake brake sound if I let off at higher rpms.
Did U install new clamps on the change?? if not U may not be getting a good seal.
.
My Rush at first have really bad decel popping and a few KA-Booms also. I had the Stg 1 with SERT tuner and dyno at the 1K, They couldn't tune it out.
SO I called Rush about it and the tech told me to check for air leaks.. Yeppers that was it,
The wrench didn't get them on correctly and after they re-installed them, and retuned it. Now I have what I call a Gurgle on decell at lower rpm's and the Jake brake sound if I let off at higher rpms.
Did U install new clamps on the change?? if not U may not be getting a good seal.
.
Popping usually is a sign of tuning or muffler air leaks.
My Rush at first have really bad decel popping and a few KA-Booms also. I had the Stg 1 with SERT tuner and dyno at the 1K, They couldn't tune it out.
SO I called Rush about it and the tech told me to check for air leaks.. Yeppers that was it,
The wrench didn't get them on correctly and after they re-installed them, and retuned it. Now I have what I call a Gurgle on decell at lower rpm's and the Jake brake sound if I let off at higher rpms.
Did U install new clamps on the change?? if not U may not be getting a good seal.
.
My Rush at first have really bad decel popping and a few KA-Booms also. I had the Stg 1 with SERT tuner and dyno at the 1K, They couldn't tune it out.
SO I called Rush about it and the tech told me to check for air leaks.. Yeppers that was it,
The wrench didn't get them on correctly and after they re-installed them, and retuned it. Now I have what I call a Gurgle on decell at lower rpm's and the Jake brake sound if I let off at higher rpms.
Did U install new clamps on the change?? if not U may not be getting a good seal.
.
When I instialled my VH quiet baffles I initially had trouble getting them in the pipe. So I took off the packing.
Later, I repacked the baffles with VH packing sold separately, and used fishing line to make the packing sit nice and tight around the baffle shaft. Put em back in with the packing.
Difference was pretty noticeable. Deeper note, and a little bit quieter overall. Slightly better performance and way less decel pop too.
Later, I repacked the baffles with VH packing sold separately, and used fishing line to make the packing sit nice and tight around the baffle shaft. Put em back in with the packing.
Difference was pretty noticeable. Deeper note, and a little bit quieter overall. Slightly better performance and way less decel pop too.
Last edited by SoCalSoftailSlim; May 28, 2013 at 10:50 AM.
I am not at all sure that the computer compensated for the Thunder Torque Inserts. What little adjustment it might have made would not have made the difference between no decel pop, and then decel pop starting after 50 miles.
The TTI's will speed the exhaust gas velocity, but does not do much to change the gas composition at the o2 sensors...what little it does would possibly make it a bit richer.
However, the computer does adjust the LTFT's after installation of the ViED's. It takes around 200 miles for the full adjustment to take place.
The other thing that could have happened after 50 miles is a small exhaust leak could have developed, changing the afr in the pipes (not the engine) which could create decel pop.
Decel popping does Not damage your engine...it is simply unburnt fuel that is burning in the exhaust tract after exiting the engine.
Decel popping occurs when one of two things are present.
1. The bike is so lean the exhaust is superheated and is burning the unburnt fuel that is in the pipes (there is always some unburnt fuel in the pipes no matter how lean). Contrary to popular thought, this is very rare.
2. The AFR IN THE pipes is just right to burn the unburnt fuel. This is quite a common occurrence when free flowing pipes are installed (whether or not a free flow A/C is installed). It can also occur if there is an exhaust leak that is introducing extra air into the exhaust tract.
To get rid of decel popping a lot of people put MORE fuel than is needed into the engine/over-richening the AFR so that more unburnt fuel goes into exhaust, changing the AFR in the exhaust so that is no longer optimum for combustion in the pipes. This is just a waste of gas. And if using decel enleanment found on most tuners it is still really hard to get rid of the popping/burbling when the injectors kick back in at about 1750 rpm.
To get rid of the decel pop I would go back and re-tighten all the clamps and manifold nuts, then check for leaks.
Another thing you can do is try different settings on your ViED's.
Regarding low end power, if you have the TTI's where the threaded portion is closest to the engine, it is pretty much a lock that you will have an increase in low and mid range torque. The Rush slip-ons respond very well to them.
Almost assuredly there will be more decel pop if you remove the packing from the baffles.
The TTI's will speed the exhaust gas velocity, but does not do much to change the gas composition at the o2 sensors...what little it does would possibly make it a bit richer.
However, the computer does adjust the LTFT's after installation of the ViED's. It takes around 200 miles for the full adjustment to take place.
The other thing that could have happened after 50 miles is a small exhaust leak could have developed, changing the afr in the pipes (not the engine) which could create decel pop.
Decel popping does Not damage your engine...it is simply unburnt fuel that is burning in the exhaust tract after exiting the engine.
Decel popping occurs when one of two things are present.
1. The bike is so lean the exhaust is superheated and is burning the unburnt fuel that is in the pipes (there is always some unburnt fuel in the pipes no matter how lean). Contrary to popular thought, this is very rare.
2. The AFR IN THE pipes is just right to burn the unburnt fuel. This is quite a common occurrence when free flowing pipes are installed (whether or not a free flow A/C is installed). It can also occur if there is an exhaust leak that is introducing extra air into the exhaust tract.
To get rid of decel popping a lot of people put MORE fuel than is needed into the engine/over-richening the AFR so that more unburnt fuel goes into exhaust, changing the AFR in the exhaust so that is no longer optimum for combustion in the pipes. This is just a waste of gas. And if using decel enleanment found on most tuners it is still really hard to get rid of the popping/burbling when the injectors kick back in at about 1750 rpm.
To get rid of the decel pop I would go back and re-tighten all the clamps and manifold nuts, then check for leaks.
Another thing you can do is try different settings on your ViED's.
Regarding low end power, if you have the TTI's where the threaded portion is closest to the engine, it is pretty much a lock that you will have an increase in low and mid range torque. The Rush slip-ons respond very well to them.
Almost assuredly there will be more decel pop if you remove the packing from the baffles.
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