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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 09:26 PM
  #11  
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From: Honah Lee
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What is the chain free play. It appears to me that it looks way too tight. Also, all look well and with the compensator spring pushing, you truly tell nut is loose unless you lock primary and say put a 100 ft lbs torque to see if it moves. You do not want to break the loctite by putting the 160 on it. If it moves, you need to pull it apart, re-loctite and then torque. You should check alignment front to rear on sprockets. My nut on compensator was tight but the alternator spline was totally stripped. The face of the slipping alternator rotor only being driven by the compensator spring slipped till it wore a face groove allowing the sprockets to get out of alignment by .05 nipping the chain making an odd sound and creating a lot of metal on the magnet.
 

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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 08:35 AM
  #12  
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Well.. I can move the upper chain like 3/8"... so I think that is spec? Ill have to figure out how to lock my primary and check 100 ft lbs on the compensator nut... Ill report back.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #13  
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The cold setting is 5/8-7/8 at the tightest point (check at least 90 degree increments of the big sprocket..4 checks) and that is one way..not up and down. You are OK for short trips as set but 99 degrees and in 50 miles you will have zero clearance. 3/8 is OK for the auto-tensioners only because they have the two coil springs pushing and taking up apx 1/8 of it. If you push them hard, you will see 1/2". Lock it like this or a bar across teeth. The tensioner needs to be dropped down to the bottom to check torque.
 

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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 02:40 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
The cold setting is 5/8-7/8 at the tightest point (check at least 90 degree increments of the big sprocket..4 checks) and that is one way..not up and down. You are OK for short trips as set but 99 degrees and in 50 miles you will have zero clearance. 3/8 is OK for the auto-tensioners only because they have the two coil springs pushing and taking up apx 1/8 of it. If you push them hard, you will see 1/2". Lock it like this or a bar across teeth. The tensioner needs to be dropped down to the bottom to check torque.

Yeah I meant 5/8... yep.. Im checking it all around right now.. and setting it to 5/8 at its tightest point...

The compensator nut took 100lb+ and didnt move... Im replacing the tensioner guide.. was 3/4 worn..

Also adjusted the clutch..

I dont think any of this is going to help me at all but as long as I am here...
 
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 11:01 AM
  #15  
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Put it back together.. same noise.. May just have to live with it.. or wait for it to implode.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 07:44 AM
  #16  
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Just an update to this thread.. its still knocking at specific RPMs.. if I stay out of those areas it runs fine.. when I have my helmet on I cant hear it.. so Im probably in it a lot because its cold and I wear it fairly often now.. .. I've put 100's of miles on it like this.. starting to wonder if I should take a look at my lifters. Im just gonna run it.. hope for the best based on all the "noise" people hear in their bikes and never have an issue.. just annoying I guess.
 
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