Hello,I want to change my engine oil to fully synth. Would appear method is to drain tank,surely this would leave oil in crankcase. There are two drain plugs one at the side of the crankcase and one under the cam housing . Would I be better to drain tank,crankcase and cam housing to ensure all (or most) oil is out. Thanks. Exhausted

 

No. There should be minimal oil in the case, if you are really worried about it you can get a system to do a total oil change. It purges all the old oil out, iirc they are called scavengers. I just drain and fill personally, not enough old oil in there to stress about.

 

Leave those plugs in the engine alone. They are not supposed to be removed, and several folks have cracked their case trying to get them back in.

 

 

I just remove the return line after refilling the tank. Crank bike for about 20 seconds to get new oil coming out and you have it all changed. Takes an extra 3 min. Get about a quart out of the sump.

 

I agree with the others; just change the oil. As Uncle Chester mentioned, scavenger pumps are available, but, in all honesty, are not necessary.

This 'How To' pictorial should help:

HD Engine Oil Change

 

Make sure you warm up the engine first, and then let it drain until it drips out slowly.

 

just draining the tank leaves 24 to 32 oz of dirty oil in the engine, here is
a procedure to get all the dirty oil out, and not cost much at all.

To start with, Lisle Tools, and probably others make the tooling to remove your oil line quick connect. Check this link for Lisle-- http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=604
These can be purchased from your local Sears store also for around $10.
Also says on the packaging that you can purchase the 3/8" tool (PN 37050) separately (replacement tool) from the complete set from Lisle..

You will also need a length of 3/8" clear tubing that you will put over your oil return line, and a small bucket, preferably with ounces marked on the outside so you can see how much oil you have collected.

A typical scavenge type oil change might go something like this:

Step 1: Run the engine for a bit to get it up to temperature

Step 2: Block up the jiffy stand or use something to get your bike reasonably level.

Step 3: Remove plug from bottom of oil tank. Drain oil into container.

Step 4: Install drain plug and replace o-ring if it is torn. If it is still in good condition, reuse.

Step 5: Top off oil tank with fresh oil up to the full mark on the dipstick.

Step 6: Use the quick connect tooling and remove the oil return line from the oil tank. It is the one closest to the filler neck on the tank. If your bike has a small aluminum or chrome disc at the tank where the oil line goes in, just grab the disc with your fingers and pull it back. It is only held there by an o-ring to keep it from sliding down the oil line. Pull the line out a bit and move to side to allow you to slip the length of clear tubing over the line. Put the other end of the clear tubing in your scavenge oil bucket.

Step 7: Start the engine and run for about 10 seconds, then shut engine off. This is to purge the oil supply line from the tank, to the pump, then to the filter.

Step 8: Now is the time to remove and change the engine oil filter. Install whatever brand of oil filter you prefer on the engine at this time.

Step 9: Top off the oil tank again.

Step 10: Start the engine and monitor how much oil is going into the scavenge bucket. Notice how black it is at first. Around 30 seconds or so, it will start to lighten in color as it goes through the tubing. You should have collected somewhere around 24-32 ounces of dirty oil in the bucket. Shut off the engine.

Step 11: Remove the clear tubing from the oil line. Install the oil return line back into the oil tank. You will hear/feel a click as the line snaps back into the connector.

Step 12: Top off the oil tank.

That's all there is to it and now you have completely fresh oil in your engine.

 

After reading many of the posts about whether or not to scavenge the oil I deceided to give it a try. I got about 26 oz of dirty oil out. This may not be necessary but I must say it was nice to be able to pull the dip stick and see nice clean oil for a change. It really wasn't much trouble and only took an extra 10-15 minutes.

 

I've done an oil and filter change twice using the "threadstopper" instructions above, and for the small cost and time it takes I see no reason not to do it this way.