Do It Yourself Fluid Changes

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Nov 12, 2013 | 10:58 AM

#21

klf33

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Jun 2007

Posts: 2,796

Likes: 36

From: Toronto, Ontario

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bone Doc

Hopefully these links will provide some useful information. Refer to your service manual if there are differences between the website and your bike.

Engine oil
http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.ENGINE.HTML

Primary fluid
http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.PRIMARY.HTML

Tranny fluid
http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.GEARBOX.HTML

What he said, it was 1.5 hours of great fun on my bike using those links.
You need a TORQUE WRENCH.. make sure you do NOT over torque anything, and it is a piece of cake.

Nov 12, 2013 | 07:38 PM

#22

nikonf8

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Joined: Jul 2006

Posts: 2,429

Likes: 26

Quote:

Originally Posted by fdb2007

Just want to echo what Nikon said about the 2.8 qts. He is absolutley correct there. If you read 3.5 for oil capacity and dump 3.5 qts in there you will have a mess. 2 qts plus 24 oz works for me as well. Don't fill the case on the primary either. A qt will do that, the fluid should just be a the bottom of the clutch. It's a great way to **** away an afternoon in the garage, drink some beer and still be able to pat yourself on the back for the money you saved.

Fdb2007 made a point about a quart in the primary this is correct for bikes from 2007 above I believe.mine takes bout 26-28 ounces going by the manual but I am sure later models are requiring a quart not sure if it's all models but this is correct for the deluxe

Nov 12, 2013 | 08:45 PM

#23

Chunker

Road Warrior

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 1,905

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From: Hartford, AL

When you are looking at torque spec, make sure you understand and use INCH when it calls for inch pounds, not foot pounds

Nov 12, 2013 | 09:05 PM

#24

Shep68

Thread Starter

Road Master

Joined: Jun 2013

Posts: 900

Likes: 1

From: Denver, CO

Got that last dealer included service call in today so next fluid change is on me. I enjoy doing the work myself and it does save some cash along the way. Pretty much already had all the tools I will need, and picked up a couple tubes of locktite. Bought a K&P oil filter so will never purchase another filter. Got a FuelMoto A/C kit on the way so won't have to buy the air filter anymore either. Just need to purchase fluids now. Think I will pass on the lift for now and just do it on the ground. My previous bikes I just drove the bike up on a couple blocks of wood to raise it up a bit. Prob. do the same here and see how it goes.

I don't want to turn this into another oil thread, but I was checking out the Redline Shockproof today for tranny and primary. Didn't realize they make engine oil too but it makes sense. Haven't really ever seen anybody comment on their engine oil, but folks swear by the tranny fluid. They sell an all in one pack for all three fluid changes. Was gonna go w/ Mobile 1 in the engine, but might have to take a look at that pack they sell. Anybody using Redline in the engine?

Nov 13, 2013 | 05:46 AM

#25

HDmikie

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2011

Posts: 3,255

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From: Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shep68

Yep, I was using Mobil 1 and now use Redline in the crank case. Have always used Shockproof in the gearbox. No more clunk when going into first gear and hardly any valve train noise. FWIW, I just run conventional Castrol 10wX40 in the primary.

Nov 27, 2013 | 02:34 PM

#26

oct1949

Club Member

Joined: May 2007

Posts: 145,895

Likes: 821

From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikonf8

Good point, nikon,, not all yrs takes the same amount,,
Bought our new, may 07 and it takes 1QT in the Tranny and Primary. Makes it easier to refil without measuring.

Then put 2 1/2 QTs for the engine oil Plus I add 4-6ozs in the new filter prior to installing it. Then run several mins and add till the engine oil is about mid way on the dip stick.

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