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Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
I ordered the same bars and also called directly to ask the exact same question. I was told they had no bag drag bars with a 1.25" mounting area that all that type of bar stepped down to 1". So I ended up with 1" mount area bars and used a Wild 1 adapter to step it up to 1.25" to use my stock clamp.
Michael
Michael
Michael
Phew! Saved my *** on that response.
I love the Carlini bars. Good quality and looks like they know what they're doing on making bars. Only two things that were not good was email communication was hit or miss so I started calling them instead. I also wanted black but was told they only keep chrome in stock and have to have bars dropped off at a powdercoater for black. Evidently the powdercoater had trouble because the bars were sent back 3-4 times that I know of. So instead of around 2 weeks to receive them from time of order it took closer to 5-6.
But the bars are awesome and so is the black powdercoat and when I called the couple guys I spoke with each time were always more than willing to help. So overall I'm very happy.
Michael
But the bars are awesome and so is the black powdercoat and when I called the couple guys I spoke with each time were always more than willing to help. So overall I'm very happy.
Michael
Hey fellow Breakout owners, I need a favor.
As some of you know from my "trailering" thread in the "General Discussion" forum, I am currently building out a cargo trailer into a combination bike hauler and RV. I am currently at the point where I need to take some measurements concerning the Breakout, to know how wide a "murphy bed" I can fit alongside the Breakout when the bike is inside the trailer.
The Breakout will be placed right alongside the passenger side interior wall of the trailer. I need to know how far out from the wall the widest points on the bike will protrude, so that my flip down bed does not run into them!
I was all set to manoeuver the Breakout up the ramp and inside the trailer to take the measurements. Unfortunately a 20 year old lower back injury that acts up periodically has done so right now, and I haven't been able to stand up without pain let alone manhandle a 735 lb bike. I really hate to lose the time, and could be designing and diagramming the bed details while I recuperate.
If one of you could do the following, it would be a HUGE help:
- Place the left side driver footage in its folded up position
- Place the Breakout on its side stand parallel to a wall so that WHEN THE BIKE IS LIFTED UPRIGHT (ok for it to tilt SLIGHTLY to the right against the wall), WITH THE FRONT WHEEL POINTING STRAIGHT AHEAD, the right handlebar will just touch the wall
- Measure the distance along the floor from the wall to whatever is protruding the furthest outward on the left side of the bike. That is the measurement I need!
Just to explain a bit for those who are curious, the trailer is being built out to accommodate EITHER of my two bikes: the 2014 (non-CVO) Breakout, and a KTM dirt bike. I already have the measurements for the KTM. Its furthest protruding part is the left footpeg, which protrudes 25.5 inches. I expect that the Breakout will protrude further of course, since its engine and primary cases are much wider than on the KTM. The amount of interior trailer width left after subtracting the width of the WIDEST bike tells me how wide my bed, which flips down from the opposite (driver side) wall, can be.
Don't worry about side-to-side trailer weight misbalance due to the 735 lb Breakout being right along the passenger side wall. I have other stuff compensating on the driver side of the trailer interior.
I know it's asking a lot, but it'd be a big help, and I won't then be wasting this "downtime".
Jim G
As some of you know from my "trailering" thread in the "General Discussion" forum, I am currently building out a cargo trailer into a combination bike hauler and RV. I am currently at the point where I need to take some measurements concerning the Breakout, to know how wide a "murphy bed" I can fit alongside the Breakout when the bike is inside the trailer.
The Breakout will be placed right alongside the passenger side interior wall of the trailer. I need to know how far out from the wall the widest points on the bike will protrude, so that my flip down bed does not run into them!
I was all set to manoeuver the Breakout up the ramp and inside the trailer to take the measurements. Unfortunately a 20 year old lower back injury that acts up periodically has done so right now, and I haven't been able to stand up without pain let alone manhandle a 735 lb bike. I really hate to lose the time, and could be designing and diagramming the bed details while I recuperate.
If one of you could do the following, it would be a HUGE help:
- Place the left side driver footage in its folded up position
- Place the Breakout on its side stand parallel to a wall so that WHEN THE BIKE IS LIFTED UPRIGHT (ok for it to tilt SLIGHTLY to the right against the wall), WITH THE FRONT WHEEL POINTING STRAIGHT AHEAD, the right handlebar will just touch the wall
- Measure the distance along the floor from the wall to whatever is protruding the furthest outward on the left side of the bike. That is the measurement I need!
Just to explain a bit for those who are curious, the trailer is being built out to accommodate EITHER of my two bikes: the 2014 (non-CVO) Breakout, and a KTM dirt bike. I already have the measurements for the KTM. Its furthest protruding part is the left footpeg, which protrudes 25.5 inches. I expect that the Breakout will protrude further of course, since its engine and primary cases are much wider than on the KTM. The amount of interior trailer width left after subtracting the width of the WIDEST bike tells me how wide my bed, which flips down from the opposite (driver side) wall, can be.
Don't worry about side-to-side trailer weight misbalance due to the 735 lb Breakout being right along the passenger side wall. I have other stuff compensating on the driver side of the trailer interior.
I know it's asking a lot, but it'd be a big help, and I won't then be wasting this "downtime".
Jim G
wow- that sucks. i know what that is like I have a similar injury that bites me now and then. a fraction of a second to mess it up and 4 weeks for it to get better. but hey that's the price you pay for a fun and active life 
I'll be in the garage shortly and will take some measurements.

I'll be in the garage shortly and will take some measurements.
wow- that sucks. i know what that is like I have a similar injury that bites me now and then. a fraction of a second to mess it up and 4 weeks for it to get better. but hey that's the price you pay for a fun and active life 
I'll be in the garage shortly and will take some measurements.

I'll be in the garage shortly and will take some measurements.
Jim G
Anyway.. I think this will get you in a safe ballpark to blueprint from. I store my bike in the garage up close to a wall so it's pretty much the same setup as you are doing. I even use two shim blocks under the kickstand to keep bike more upright.
Your widest part of bike by far is the handlebar levers. you will get the bike much closer to wall and vertical with the handlebars turned to full left. the front tire in the left turned position does not stick out any farther than the handlebar lever.
Your widest part on the left side of bike is the license plate. You can swivel it backwards and use a bungee to hold it. I changed mine so it is pointing vertical instead of horizontal and that will get you back 3" of width.
>> Measurements were taken with bike vertical just to the point of wanting to fall towards right and bike horizontally lined away from wall best I could.
>> I kept the bars and levers 3/4" from wall so as to not scrape anything-
>> I added this 3/4" to measurements labeled (A).
>> All other measurements were taken directly to wall surface and i rounded up to the widest measurement so there is probably 1/4" to 3/8" of "padding".
Measurements with BARS STRAIGHT:
Widest part of bike left to right: distance from wall to end of left lever, 37.25" (A)
Left shifter from wall: 33"
Left license plate end from wall: 37.5"
Left driver footpeg down: 36"
Measurements with BARS TURNED LEFT:
Widest part of bike left to right: distance from wall to end of left lever, 33.75" (A)
Left shifter from wall: 31"
Left license plate end from wall: 35.5"
Left driver footpeg down: 34"
So you can get the bike closer to wall and vertical if you turn the bars full left. You can gain some additional clearance on the license plate by scooting the rear of bike a bit closer to wall than front maybe two inches. If you designed with say 40" of allocated width then you would be golden.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by LA_Dog; May 5, 2015 at 12:58 PM.
LOL oh **** man, don't set me up like that- I've only had two cups of coffee this morning..
Anyway.. I think this will get you in a safe ballpark to blueprint from. I store my bike in the garage up close to a wall so it's pretty much the same setup as you are doing. I even use two shim blocks under the kickstand to keep bike more upright.
Your widest part of bike by far is the handlebar levers. you will get the bike much closer to wall and vertical with the handlebars turned to full left. the front tire in the left turned position does not stick out any farther than the handlebar lever.
Your widest part on the left side of bike is the license plate. You can swivel it backwards and use a bungee to hold it. I changed mine so it is pointing vertical instead of horizontal and that will get you back 3" of width.
>> Measurements were taken with bike vertical just to the point of wanting to fall towards right and bike horizontally lined away from wall best I could.
>> I kept the bars and levers 3/4" from wall so as to not scrape anything-
>> I added this 3/4" to measurements labeled (A).
>> All other measurements were taken directly to wall surface and i rounded up to the widest measurement so there is probably 1/4" to 3/8" of "padding".
Measurements with BARS STRAIGHT:
Widest part of bike left to right: distance from wall to end of left lever, 37.25" (A)
Left shifter from wall: 33"
Left license plate end from wall: 37.5"
Left driver footpeg down: 36"
Measurements with BARS TURNED LEFT:
Widest part of bike left to right: distance from wall to end of left lever, 33.75" (A)
Left shifter from wall: 31"
Left license plate end from wall: 35.5"
Left driver footpeg down: 34"
So you can get the bike closer to wall and vertical if you turn the bars full left. You can gain some additional clearance on the license plate by scooting the rear of bike a bit closer to wall than front maybe two inches. If you designed with say 40" of allocated width then you would be golden.
Hope this helps!
Anyway.. I think this will get you in a safe ballpark to blueprint from. I store my bike in the garage up close to a wall so it's pretty much the same setup as you are doing. I even use two shim blocks under the kickstand to keep bike more upright.
Your widest part of bike by far is the handlebar levers. you will get the bike much closer to wall and vertical with the handlebars turned to full left. the front tire in the left turned position does not stick out any farther than the handlebar lever.
Your widest part on the left side of bike is the license plate. You can swivel it backwards and use a bungee to hold it. I changed mine so it is pointing vertical instead of horizontal and that will get you back 3" of width.
>> Measurements were taken with bike vertical just to the point of wanting to fall towards right and bike horizontally lined away from wall best I could.
>> I kept the bars and levers 3/4" from wall so as to not scrape anything-
>> I added this 3/4" to measurements labeled (A).
>> All other measurements were taken directly to wall surface and i rounded up to the widest measurement so there is probably 1/4" to 3/8" of "padding".
Measurements with BARS STRAIGHT:
Widest part of bike left to right: distance from wall to end of left lever, 37.25" (A)
Left shifter from wall: 33"
Left license plate end from wall: 37.5"
Left driver footpeg down: 36"
Measurements with BARS TURNED LEFT:
Widest part of bike left to right: distance from wall to end of left lever, 33.75" (A)
Left shifter from wall: 31"
Left license plate end from wall: 35.5"
Left driver footpeg down: 34"
So you can get the bike closer to wall and vertical if you turn the bars full left. You can gain some additional clearance on the license plate by scooting the rear of bike a bit closer to wall than front maybe two inches. If you designed with say 40" of allocated width then you would be golden.
Hope this helps!
I may need to take a look at an actual "Biker Bar", the transporting device that I plan to buy for the Breakout. It might, or might not, allow the "left turned handlebar". Let me explain:
While the device itself might allow turning the handlebar, getting the bike INTO or OUT OF the device may require the wheel to be kept straight simply to get the bike into proper position.
The device that holds the KTM in transit, the Risk Racing "Lock N Load", does allow turning the KTM's bar because the KTM is light enough (225 lb) to simply slide the front and/or tires around as needed on the floor of the trailer . The Breakout is too heavy to do that.
The bed can PROBABLY be positioned so that it is entirely FORWARD of the license plate in the trailer.
My footpads both fold up to vertical (HD accessory footpads, not stock), so the limiting factor for me will be the shifter. That puts my maximum Breakout width from wall as either 31" (if I can turn the bar and still get the bike into the Biker Bar device), or 33" if I have to keep the bar straight.
The interior of my 6 foot trailer is a net 68.5".
That makes the bed a maximum of 35.5" to 37.5" wide.
My target width was 38", only because then I can buy a "standard" twin size mattress and not have to pay extra to get a custom width mattress.
The other approach is to simply ensure that the HEIGHT of the BOTTOM of the mattress frame is higher than the shifter. (If the frame is higher than the shifter when in the deployed position, it does not matter that the shifter intrudes UNDER the bed frame as the frame swings UPWARD to fold up).
The handlebar is unlikely to be an issue, because:
- once the bike is "locked" into the Bike Bar, the handlebar can be turned
and
- The bed arcs toward the opposite (driver side) wall of the trailer as it is lifted into storage position, so by the time it gets to the handlebar height, it is considerably further from the passenger wall than the handlebar end.
How high is the shifter above floor level when the bike is truly upright?
Jim G
Jim- I measure 15.5" to top of shift peg from floor. Keep in mind that my Breakout no longer has the lame fork sag since I redid the fork springs, so a stock Breakout may be an inch lower.
However, if you have the bars turned to the left you will more than likely hit the lever and / or mirror when lowering / raising bed. if the bars are straight they would be more forward and out of the way. Also it might hit the license plate if it is still oriented stock and horizontal. It is pretty easy to take the license plate bracket apart and orient the license plate downwards vertically. looks better too
However, if you have the bars turned to the left you will more than likely hit the lever and / or mirror when lowering / raising bed. if the bars are straight they would be more forward and out of the way. Also it might hit the license plate if it is still oriented stock and horizontal. It is pretty easy to take the license plate bracket apart and orient the license plate downwards vertically. looks better too









