My situation is that my friends'/roommates' dad runs an indie shop here that also focuses on sprint cars, modifieds and all those dirt track race cars, so he's a tuning wiz. If he stays open a few more years, I probably would put a 110 on it just because I have his expertise available whenever I want. He put some intiminators and did a few other things for my on my Sporty about 5 weeks ago and still hasn't given me a bill, he's a hell of a good dude. Tuned the hell out of my Sporty after he installed the 1250 kit on it, she's pretty quick. I kind of figure it's a waste if I leave the 103 on it if I have that resource. I guess I need to go with parts that will be more performance-based on not strictly looks (Big Radius on my Sporty, for example, he and Hammer says I'll get more power if I put a better performance pipe on it), and that will work effectively with a 110 and new cams and heads.

 

yep when you have access to a good tuner, builder and machine shop the possibilities are endless. you don't need a 110 though for big numbers, which will require boring your cases larger. A good 107 build will seriously rock n roll. but it's also about the gearing and it will still feel "not perky" with the excessively tall 2.79 overall ratio. The mods I suggested get you to 3.067. Engine upgrades and gearing go hand in hand- your tuning / engine expert will tell you this too

With the intiminators be sure to also do the race tech single rate springs along with it. The stock "progressive rate" HD springs are weak as hell.

If your indy shop has a tuner device that can program your ECM then you don't need to buy one.

For pipes yes if you do a build and want the most from it you'll want a good 2-1 pipe - I'd look at RB Racing's LSR 2-1 or the Pro Stock shorty 2-1. Those pipes make some numbers. SuperTrapp, also very good. DnD not bad either. Anyway you are on the right track - 2-2 pipes look better and sound better, but lose TQ on the low and mid end. Good luck with the purchase!

 

It probably won't be for a year, I'm trying to organize and plan ahead. Buying supplies for a large patio, taking away a lot of my fun money.

Thanks for all the help, I copied quite a bit of it and have it saved in a Word file for future reference.

One this I wish I knew was the 2016 Breakout colors.. never did see the model in that 2016 colors thread.

 

The one in my sig pic? Yes, that's my cafe rocker lolol. Or coffee Harley (like my neighbor calls it) hahahaha.

 

Or buy a low mileage 2014 and paint it your own color- save some money.
Only thing that would make the 2016 enticing is anything significantly changed mechanically- e/g larger brakes, increased base HP/TQ, style redesign, etc.

look at the dyno charts and builds on this site- http://www.headhoggers.com/dyno-sheets.html
You want something like this for the 107 and up builds. if you are going to bore your cases then don't screw around with a 110 and go to a 117. but with a good 107 and gearing change, I'd bet money you won't need it. Once you get over 120hp/125tq you have to do your crank, maybe a wider belt, and definitely a stronger clutch (stock clutch it pretty weak).

The reason most guys are not happy with or getting the big numbers from their 103 / 106 / 107 stage 4 builds is they forget a key component- usually it is forgetting to put on a larger throttle body and larger injectors and revise the overall gear ratio.

 

Well guys I think I just found the "bad ***" component for better gearing on the Breakout or any other softail / dyna. Seems Primo Rivera just started making a smaller 32t front compensator gear kit for all 2007-up bikes. All FXS/FXD are shown to fit this part including rocker / breakout.

This is the gearing half of the compensator sprocket and replaces the stock 34t gear with a new 32t gear- and you still keep the compensator function. Most places are out of stock but a few places have them some as low as $197.

Rivera Engineering 1066-0050 Gear Ratio Game Changer-Rivera




Google for it to see stores that have it: https://www.google.com/search?q=1066...utf-8&oe=utf-8

Basically what this does is change your primary gearing ratio from 1.35 to 1.44. With the stock 32t transmission pulley and stock 66t rear pulley, this gives you a 2.95 overall ratio (stock is 2.79). if you also do the 68T rear sportster pulley, you now end up with a 3.055 ratio- which is awesome, almost as good as the 3.067 ratio of the 30T trans pulley and 68T rear pulley upgrade.

This IMO is the better way to do it, and you can DIY this with basic tools. Cost wise, assuming the dealer charges an avg of $150 do to the 30t transmission pulley swap, you'll save over $100 going with the 32t compensator vs the 30t transmission pulley.

$200 for 32t Primo compensator kit -vs- $65 for the 32T trans pulley
$40 for primary gasket / derby cover gasket -vs- $100 for both inner and outer primary gasket kits

(optional) $160 for the 68T sportster sprocket, $10 for the five shorter sportster pulley bolts.

>DIY or shop labor to remove outer primary and swap the compensator sprocket outer half. put in shorter chain and adjuster spacer

(optional) > DIY or shop labor to change the rear pulley and adjust drive belt. using the 68T rear pulley is OPTIONAL with the Rivera kit but you'll only end up with 2.95 ratio- still not bad though / can do rear pulley later

-vs-

>$150 or more shop labor to swap the transmission pulley to 30t.

> The 30T transmission pulley swap requires also installing the 68T rear pulley, $165 plus bolts plus DIY. Unless you want to buy a shorter drive belt ($170+) and pay labor cost to swap belt (NOT cheap)

Of course I find this AFTER I bought the trans pulley and gaskets... lol

Note that with either method your speedo will be off, so you'll need a good tuner device like the PV2 to adjust the calibration. With the motor compensator change, you must also adjust the "gear ratios" section of the tune file otherwise your gear indicators and 6th gear light will be wrong. with the transmission pulley change, you don't touch the gear ratios you only adjust the 'speedometer' value.

 

What transformation

It look really good, but not so comfy

 

You hit the nail in the head. Looks bitchin but not so comfortable. But, for the rides I do (2 hours one way then grab something to eat and then 2 hour ride home) it's good.

I ride it hard man and the roads I frequent are full of hill, twists and turns so I'm constantly having to shift my weight to lean one way or another to take a sweeping turn or dodge a deer lol.

I do notice that when I'm in a constant sitting position I get fatigued easier. It's a trade off in the end man, It's a bit uncomfortable but the confused looks I get from people trying to figure out what the hell the bike is makes it all worth it hahaha.

I plan on going back to the apes for the second half of the season. In a few weeks or so.

 

Great info dude. You're forcing me to unsubscribe from this thread cays you're gonna cost me money I don't wanna spend lol

 

OK...I see that there is a LOT of info on the Breakout but I see that it's spread out in numerous thread and you have to read through a TON of stuff to find what you are looking for (like this VERY long thread). Has anyone done a Breakout thread specifically designated for "Breakout Performance Mods"??? Handling and Engine mods?