I retroactively installed that same tach-speedo combination onto my non-CVO breakouit a few days ago. A few pointers:

- The instructions for it are availbale in pdf format online, at the HD website that describes the product, under the tab that is labeled "More information"

- The instructions do not make clear that the programmining only works in SOME display modes. It did not work for me when I had the "Gear - rpm" or the odometer reading displaying, but worked fine when I clicked the display over to one of the other display screens. They should have mentioned this but did not

- You have to have the ignition in the "Ignition On" position as I recall, NOT in the "accessory" position

- You basically get to the screen that shows what you want to change, for example, "clock", or "color", by using the TRIP button, and then do everything to make changes using only 2 buttons: the lefthand turn signal and the righthand turn signal. You HOLD down the left turndignal button to tell the system you want to make a change. The system starts flashing the first digit of the display. You click (not hold) the left turn signal button once to increment that first digit by '1". You click it again and again until it is what you want. Then, when it is the "desired" digit, you click the RIGHThand turn signal. Now the system stops flashing that first digit, and starts flashing the 2nd digit. You increment that 2nd digit upward 1 at a time by using the LEFThand turn signal button, until it is where you want it to be. Click the righthand button to accept it. Repeat for 3rd, 4th, etc digits as required for whatever individual display screen you are working on. Then, finally, there is an instruction to tell the system you are "finished" making changes, and I cannot recall what it is now, but it is in the instructions. (MIGHT be as simple as turning ignition to "off").

There is a chart in the instructions that shows you the "digits range" for each color. For example, I think I recall that "red" shades are all in the "500" series. Which means that you would eneter am code that is "500" and then increment each of the "zeros" ONLY until you have the specific shade of "red" that you like.

Jim G

 

Thanks for all of the good info guys- I see my mistake: I thought I had part number 70900274 when in fact it's 70900100B, and the instruction manual that I pulled down mentioned nothing about programming with the right and left turn signals- This should clear everything up- thanks again.

 

Ye, the Breakout does NOT take he same part numebr instrument as some other Softails. As you have stated, the correct pn for the Breakout instrument is 70900100B.

Just remember "B" for breakout in the part number.

Jim G

 

You guys that replaced the stock offset pegs, did you adjust the shifter at all? Is this even possible? Also, was it necessary to adjust the shifter for a more comfortable riding position? I am sure it is, it looks like it is just a matter of loosening a screw, but wanted to make sure.

 

No my shifter was right where I wanted it but it is very simple you can place the shift lever in a different position on the splines course adjustment or you can adjust the shifter rod for a finer adjustment.

 

I had my shift lever sent out for powder coating, and when they re-attached it afterwards, I could barely shift the gears b/c it was put back on so far up. I took it off when I got home, and moved it down about 2 notches- easy to do- yes, just unscrew it.

 

Sorry for thread jacking. Just got a 2014 breakout. I noticed someone posted this link: http://www.deadcreekcycles.com/No-Sh...Kit_p_704.html

Can someone explain, other than the obvious cost difference, what the pros and cons are to using a lowering kit instead of Shotgun shocks to lower a bike. Thanks for your time. Sorry again for the threadjacking.

 

That isn't a thread jack. You have a Breakout and this thread is called The Everything Breakout Thread.

The ShotgunShock will allow you to adjust the ride height and firmness at any time with the flick of a switch. From very high, to very low and everywhere in between.

The lowering kits are just reducing the amount that the factory shocks can travel. Because of the reduced travel you will need to stiffen the shocks by adjusting the preload. This will make the ride very firm all the time.

So, you can spend a little money and look cool but ride stiff, or spend more money and look cool when you want, and ride smooth when you don't care.

That is essentially the difference between air ride and non air ride.

 

Just another Breakout..

With Bassani Pro Street Turnouts, SE Super Tuner, and Custom Dynamics LEDs

 

I love that blue frame.