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I rode the bike to work today and when I came out, I hit the rear switch and it raised up almost an inch.
If you flipped the rear switch up, then yeah, that's what it's supposed to do.
The shocks work together as a single unit, but they're divided in half (front to back) with what I call the UP chamber and the DOWN chamber...
Flipping the rear switch DOWN turns the compressor ON, adds more air & pressure to the DOWN chamber and causes the bike to lower.
Flipping the rear switch UP opens the valve on the DOWN chamber, letting air out, and as a result whatever pressure is in the UP chamber now is pushing harder - so the bike tends to rise...
Not to be a wise-***, and with all due respect, but are you sure this isn't just a result of not understanding how it's supposed to work? And I mean that seriously. There are tons of threads here with guys talking about trying to "figure out how to dial it in" or "what do the switches do?" - because let's face it, the included instructions aren't much help here...
If you flipped the rear switch up, then yeah, that's what it's supposed to do.
The shocks work together as a single unit, but they're divided in half (front to back) with what I call the UP chamber and the DOWN chamber...
Flipping the rear switch DOWN turns the compressor ON, adds more air & pressure to the DOWN chamber and causes the bike to lower.
Flipping the rear switch UP opens the valve on the DOWN chamber, letting air out, and as a result whatever pressure is in the UP chamber now is pushing harder - so the bike tends to rise...
Not to be a wise-***, and with all due respect, but are you sure this isn't just a result of not understanding how it's supposed to work? And I mean that seriously. There are tons of threads here with guys talking about trying to "figure out how to dial it in" or "what do the switches do?" - because let's face it, the included instructions aren't much help here...
Oh no, I realize that's what it's supposed to do. What I was saying is that I left the bike up all the way at the stiffest ride and when I came back the next day, I hit the switch and it raised again. It had lost height and firmness sitting for a day.
Mine bleeds all the way down in a couple of days (rode it last Thursday and by Sunday, when I went out to the garage again, it was all the way down),my question to those of you that have never had a problem is how often do you have to add air? I work with big trucks so I'm used to dealing with air systems and I know that they all will loose some air over time. my first one didn't hold air long enough to make it to the end of the street. I purchased mine in October, and just installed my second one last Wednesday (so the new one sat on the workbench all winter). When I spoke with JD he had me do a couple of checks and then sent me out another unit that day, the man does live up to his legend. I haven't spoke with him about the second one loosing air yet. I'm trying to gauge whats normal for these units before I start thinking I have a problem.
Mine bleeds all the way down in a couple of days (rode it last Thursday and by Sunday, when I went out to the garage again, it was all the way down),my question to those of you that have never had a problem is how often do you have to add air?
Never, actually.
Unless I want to change it up...
In fact, I think you may be the third guy to mention a slow leak in as many weeks.
One had two in a row.
I wonder if maybe JD got himself a bad batch of check valves or something.
In fact, I think you may be the third guy to mention a slow leak in as many weeks.
One had two in a row.
I wonder if maybe JD got himself a bad batch of check valves or something.
Regardless, rest assured he will make it right.
Well the first step in the diagnostic process is "verify the problem". I have to admit that I'm a little reluctant to bring up a problem, some folks on here are pretty zealous in defending the product. Although with the direction this particular thread is going, it seemed like the right place to ask.
I have no doubts that JD would make it right. I spoke with him back in October and was very impressed with how he handles things.
I got my new one in but I'm probably not going to get it installed until this Friday. I checked it Thursday evening after parking it last Sunday and it bled all the way out. I was told it was probably a seal and a slow leak like that isn't something they can check on their workbench. I'm crossing my fingers that shock #3 works.
Hey Village Idiot (man that doesn't feel right saying lol) did you install them yourself or have a shop do the install? The reason I'm asking is I'm very close to you in Sharpsburg, MD and have one I need to install. Would be great if I could get together with you or your installer since I have never done one.
Hey Village Idiot (man that doesn't feel right saying lol) did you install them yourself or have a shop do the install? The reason I'm asking is I'm very close to you in Sharpsburg, MD and have one I need to install. Would be great if I could get together with you or your installer since I have never done one.
It really isn't hard - the hardest part most people find is breaking those factory shoulder bolts loose where the shocks connect to the swing-arm... a little heat and some patience goes a long way. That and a big *** wrench.
Something I did to aid in the install was I went ahead and jacked the bike up as far as it would go (on a Sears red jack), then I put two solid concrete blocks w/ 2x4's sideways on each - one on each side of the jack.
Then I lowered the bike onto those and pulled the jack out.
That gave me plenty of room to work.
Plus you get a lot of satisfaction doing it yourself...
Hey Village Idiot (man that doesn't feel right saying lol) did you install them yourself or have a shop do the install? The reason I'm asking is I'm very close to you in Sharpsburg, MD and have one I need to install. Would be great if I could get together with you or your installer since I have never done one.
I did it myself. I could help you do it. Swapping the shock out takes me about an hour because I have to remove my rear wheel and that's a bitch. I have to take my rotor off and fanagle the caliper through the swing arm to get my wheel off.
It could probably be done in about two hours if you had no problems and didn't take breaks or what not. If you have the space and the tools, I have the jack.
It really isn't hard - the hardest part most people find is breaking those factory shoulder bolts loose where the shocks connect to the swing-arm... a little heat and some patience goes a long way. That and a big *** wrench.
Something I did to aid in the install was I went ahead and jacked the bike up as far as it would go (on a Sears red jack), then I put two solid concrete blocks w/ 2x4's sideways on each - one on each side of the jack.
Then I lowered the bike onto those and pulled the jack out.
That gave me plenty of room to work.
Plus you get a lot of satisfaction doing it yourself...
I bought a harbor freight hi lift motorcycle jack. It works perfect as the tines the bike sits on are wide enough to clear where the shock installs.
Last edited by Village Idiot; Apr 19, 2014 at 05:03 PM.
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