The Shotgun Shock Installation Thread
Supporter
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,912
Likes: 73
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I don't agree.
The shock works by having air either side of the piston in the shock body. You change the height of the ride by changing the relative amount of air in either side (if you increase air on both sides, the height stays pretty much the same).
The bike bounces less the MORE air is in the shock.
If there is little to no air pushing the bike down, then either the ride will seem very firm as the bike is at maximum height and your weight can't push the piston against the air pressure, or it seems very soft because there is unsufficient air in the shock to support your weight. You are more likely to "top out" than bottom out.
If you want to firm up the ride, you need to add air to BOTH sides of the shock (up the front switch and down the rear switch). If you don't add equally, then you will either increase or decrease the ride height in the process.
If the ride is bottoming out, you need to add air with the front switch (up). If the ride is "topping out", you need to add air with the rear switch (down).
If the ride is otherwise too firm (just not bouncing enough), then you should let air out of the shock. If you use only the front switch (down) you will also lower the bike in the process (beware bottoming out). If you use only the rear switch (up) you will also raise the bike in the process (beware topping out).
The shock works by having air either side of the piston in the shock body. You change the height of the ride by changing the relative amount of air in either side (if you increase air on both sides, the height stays pretty much the same).
The bike bounces less the MORE air is in the shock.
If there is little to no air pushing the bike down, then either the ride will seem very firm as the bike is at maximum height and your weight can't push the piston against the air pressure, or it seems very soft because there is unsufficient air in the shock to support your weight. You are more likely to "top out" than bottom out.
If you want to firm up the ride, you need to add air to BOTH sides of the shock (up the front switch and down the rear switch). If you don't add equally, then you will either increase or decrease the ride height in the process.
If the ride is bottoming out, you need to add air with the front switch (up). If the ride is "topping out", you need to add air with the rear switch (down).
If the ride is otherwise too firm (just not bouncing enough), then you should let air out of the shock. If you use only the front switch (down) you will also lower the bike in the process (beware bottoming out). If you use only the rear switch (up) you will also raise the bike in the process (beware topping out).
peg20 gets it...
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,158
Likes: 68
From: Martinsburg, WV
I don't agree.
The shock works by having air either side of the piston in the shock body. You change the height of the ride by changing the relative amount of air in either side (if you increase air on both sides, the height stays pretty much the same).
The bike bounces less the MORE air is in the shock.
If there is little to no air pushing the bike down, then either the ride will seem very firm as the bike is at maximum height and your weight can't push the piston against the air pressure, or it seems very soft because there is unsufficient air in the shock to support your weight. You are more likely to "top out" than bottom out.
If you want to firm up the ride, you need to add air to BOTH sides of the shock (up the front switch and down the rear switch). If you don't add equally, then you will either increase or decrease the ride height in the process.
If the ride is bottoming out, you need to add air with the front switch (up). If the ride is "topping out", you need to add air with the rear switch (down).
If the ride is otherwise too firm (just not bouncing enough), then you should let air out of the shock. If you use only the front switch (down) you will also lower the bike in the process (beware bottoming out). If you use only the rear switch (up) you will also raise the bike in the process (beware topping out).
The shock works by having air either side of the piston in the shock body. You change the height of the ride by changing the relative amount of air in either side (if you increase air on both sides, the height stays pretty much the same).
The bike bounces less the MORE air is in the shock.
If there is little to no air pushing the bike down, then either the ride will seem very firm as the bike is at maximum height and your weight can't push the piston against the air pressure, or it seems very soft because there is unsufficient air in the shock to support your weight. You are more likely to "top out" than bottom out.
If you want to firm up the ride, you need to add air to BOTH sides of the shock (up the front switch and down the rear switch). If you don't add equally, then you will either increase or decrease the ride height in the process.
If the ride is bottoming out, you need to add air with the front switch (up). If the ride is "topping out", you need to add air with the rear switch (down).
If the ride is otherwise too firm (just not bouncing enough), then you should let air out of the shock. If you use only the front switch (down) you will also lower the bike in the process (beware bottoming out). If you use only the rear switch (up) you will also raise the bike in the process (beware topping out).
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,086
Likes: 5
From: London, UK
Thanks. To be honest, I've had a lot of time to think about it; I'm not sure if there is something wrong with my compressor or not, but it takes AGES to bring the bike up. Some are saying numbers like 20 seconds to full height and firm. Mine takes easily double that. But once it's there, it works fine from then on.
I haven't bothered to raise the issue with JD as it works "as advertised", just not as quickly as others experience. The fact that I'm UK-based means that it would be a real headache (costly and time consuming) for all involved to look into it.
I haven't bothered to raise the issue with JD as it works "as advertised", just not as quickly as others experience. The fact that I'm UK-based means that it would be a real headache (costly and time consuming) for all involved to look into it.
Supporter
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,912
Likes: 73
From: Pittsburgh, PA
That's why JD switched to momentary contact switches over the older maintained contact type...
Read that and you won't have to experiment.
I can dial mine in from slammed in about a minute.
Last edited by jam436; Apr 28, 2014 at 09:06 AM.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,158
Likes: 68
From: Martinsburg, WV
With the kind of pressure it would take to damage the shock, I'd be more worried about burning up the compressor by leaving it run too long.
That's why JD switched to momentary contact switches over the older maintained contact type...
Did you read that write-up I posted?
Read that and you won't have to experiment.
I can dial mine in from slammed in about a minute.
That's why JD switched to momentary contact switches over the older maintained contact type...
Did you read that write-up I posted?
Read that and you won't have to experiment.
I can dial mine in from slammed in about a minute.
It's kind of difficult though as I still have a bit of clearance issue in the rear with the wheel that's on it. It runs on the plastic guard that covers the wires coming in from the turn signals. Maybe I can fab up a metal bracket that will do the job without taking up too much space back there.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,158
Likes: 68
From: Martinsburg, WV
Dumb question, but do you keep the bushing cups on the bushings when you put the shock on? I had them removed for some reason. I think when I put the lowering kit on that I had on before the Shotgun.
Thanks. To be honest, I've had a lot of time to think about it; I'm not sure if there is something wrong with my compressor or not, but it takes AGES to bring the bike up. Some are saying numbers like 20 seconds to full height and firm. Mine takes easily double that. But once it's there, it works fine from then on.
I haven't bothered to raise the issue with JD as it works "as advertised", just not as quickly as others experience. The fact that I'm UK-based means that it would be a real headache (costly and time consuming) for all involved to look into it.
I haven't bothered to raise the issue with JD as it works "as advertised", just not as quickly as others experience. The fact that I'm UK-based means that it would be a real headache (costly and time consuming) for all involved to look into it.
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I have them on but they were never off. I would guess that with them off the bolts might press into the rubber and damage them?? May also not be able to snugg the bolts up as tight?? Can't say I know because I've never had mine off
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,086
Likes: 5
From: London, UK
When I dump air when parked I do it with the front switch (down) only. I also take it to its low point which doesn't necessarily mean I dump all the air. Raising it takes less time. If you think it's taking too long to add air check if the hose is on tight. Maybe there is some air leaking out of the hose while you're inflating. The other issue could be a hole in the line, has it rubbed on the belt. Is the air hose kinked anywhere?
It isn't a hole in the line, as the speed hasn't changed since new. I was pretty careful when fitting it to avoid routing the hose near anything, and I cut off as much excess as possible to make it as short (and therefore less likely to cause problems) as possible.
My bike is an ABS version, so the compressor is next to the shock (under the edge of the trans) rather than in the space above it, so the hose doesn't have far to go at all.
When I installed it, I did test the shock prior to bolting it on the bike and didn't see any leaks at that point. Obviously it wasn't under the weight of the bike then, so I guess that leaks wouldn't be obvious then perhaps. I haven't checked since then, so I might see if I can do that.
Also, I haven't noticed any speed difference using the buttons with the engine off or running - it seems to take the same amount of time either way, so it's not voltage that's causing the issue either.