I just finished putting on a new rear wheel & tire and made sure I was equal distance from the swingarm bolt to the center of the axle bolt, but my belt is running to outboard side of the pulley. The belt doesn't seem to b rubbing on the pulley but it is very close to the outboard edge. I have a 2011 softail deluxe that I bought new. When I measure the adjustment bolts before the 1st time I adjusted the belt they were (sprocket side) 5/16" from the bottom of the bolt to the flat surface of where the bolt screws into. The (Brake side) was 3/16". The service manual says it that the wheel alignment tolerance wise shouldn"t be no more than 1/32". Now with my wheel equal distance the bolts r (sprocket) 5/16" & the (brake side) 3/8". That is a 3/16" difference. So what is better, equal distance or belt in the middle of the sprocket? I think they r coming from the factory not equal distance. THANKS!

 

I know on my Night Train, if you jack the rear end up and spin the tire you will see the belt float across the surface of the pulley slightly. It doesn't just stay to the left, middle or right, HOWEVER, most times it is closer to the left side when I happen to look at it. Does yours do this? Maybe you're just seeing it stopped to the left side.

As long as your brake rotor is centered in the caliper and the belt isn't trying to slip over the pulley, I think you'll be fine, but I've been wrong in the past!

 

The measurements that are to be used per the maunual are pretty arbitrary. There is no center mark punched in the face of the swingarm pivot, so how are you supposed to be within 1/32 of an inch, when there is nothing to measure to? Counting the threads and measuring the bolts seems pretty "approximate" to me also.

I put the bike on the jack, in N, and spin the tire forward and backward. Set the tension with the left side adjuster and watch the belt track in the pulley. Make adjustments to the right adjuster until the belt tracks in the same place (I like roughly center, but it usually favors the outside a little) when rotating both directions. You just don't want it to be rubbing the inside edge of the pulley. Then recheck tension and lock it all down. Takes a while to get it right, and you'll want the axle nut snug so the axle isn't wandering too much. A deadblow hammer helps to make sure the axle is tight against the adjusters as well.

 

I was never very good at math...but that is a 1/16" difference. Using a measuring tape is a good starting point...but the real test is how the bike tracts...not the belt. If the bike will go straight with your hands off the bars...you got it right...if it pulls to one side, you need to adjust. If the bike tracts straight and the belt does not, you have an alinement problem between the rear sprocket and the trans sprocket. The belt tracking against a guide is not a problem as long as it is not wearing the edge of the belt...I have seen many that tract against the outside going forward and walk to the inside when you back up the bike.

 

Ive found over the years that you really can't go by the adjuster screw gaps our if the belt is perfectly centered. Ive always used a tape measure and made sure the rear axle center and the swing arm pivot center is the same distance on both sides. Its old school but has worked for me.

 

I ended up taking off my swingarm to put on the shotgun shocks so when I did that I took the swingarm bolt to work & center drilled it in the lathe. I also made some plugs with a small center drill for the axle to pick up the center. That is how I'm getting the measurements. The 3/16 was the the difference from when I bought it new & then now doing the equal distance from the swingarm bolt to the axle bolt.

 

Nice...I don't think you can get more centered then that

 

According to my manual, the distance from axle center to pivot bolt center on each side should differ by no more than 1/32". Sounds like you have the centers marked pretty accurately, so I would go with that as long as the bike tracks straight and there isn't a hard rub between pulley and belt.

 

I put caps on my swing arm bolt... so they have an equal diameter. I use a string with a loop on one end and measure to the center of the axle shaft, not to a point on the frame. Of course on some bikes that won't work. You can also use the caps and drill a dimple in the middle of them instead of pulling your swing arm bolt. There are companies that make a wire gauge that goes from the center of the swing arm bolt to the center of the axle and steps around passenger pegs, exhaust, etc. and they aren't expensive.

C#

 

Use a laser level on the side of tire, each side to the front tire and you will now get it right.