Engine cutting out
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 46
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From: westfield mass
Okay so I took it out for a ride today and within ten minutes it died. And she wouldn't start back up. But while trying to start back up the spark controller was blinking indicating that's working. I switched to reserve and managed to get it fired back up but it was bucking sometimes almost like a misfire so I'm leaning towards a fuel issue. But idk why the tach would go to zero if there was no fuel but still spark
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 30
From: North Florida
It still could be a coil or wiring issue you need to check for spark.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=231515202513
For kicks get a small 1/8 inch hose and put it on the vacume petcock and suck on it see if it holds a vacume.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=231515202513
For kicks get a small 1/8 inch hose and put it on the vacume petcock and suck on it see if it holds a vacume.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 218
Likes: 14
From: Canada
You can check the bank angle sensor with a magnet,bike running put magnet on top of sensor bike should stop,and you can use a heat gun to check controller,just so you don't end up stuck on the side of road.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: westfield mass
So I did some more testing. It's not a fuel or carb issue. If I shut off the fuel and let the bike run out of fuel the tach still hold it's rpm. When I hit the kill switch and shut off spark it drops to zero. I actually think it is a kill switch starting to go bad if I flip it multiple times after it does it fires back up almost everytime
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: North Florida
So I did some more testing. It's not a fuel or carb issue. If I shut off the fuel and let the bike run out of fuel the tach still hold it's rpm. When I hit the kill switch and shut off spark it drops to zero. I actually think it is a kill switch starting to go bad if I flip it multiple times after it does it fires back up almost everytime
The run switch also feeds the start button, so it would not crank if the run switch was bad.
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Intermediate
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From: westfield mass
If I flip the run switch on and off before I come to stop it usually comes back on. So I was thinking that when it doesn't fire back on the bike was flooding out before I came to stop causing my no start for a little while till it sat. I'm taking it out for a ride around my neighborhood today with my test light. I'm gunba try to get it to die and see if there is still power to the coil when it doesnt wanna start
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Intermediate
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From: westfield mass
So I got the bike to go to a no start condition. Tested power at the two terminals on the coil and both had power. But when testing power out of the plug wires there was nothing when crabking it over so if I'm not mistaken then my coils bad right?
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
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From: westfield mass
So I went to Harley today to get plug wires and a coil. Come outside and the bike won't start. So I changed the plug wires right there and she started right up and I haven't had an issue since put about 30 miles on her with no trouble. So I'm entirely positive yet but think it's fixed and it was bad wires, thanks for all the help guys you've been great
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: North Florida
So I went to Harley today to get plug wires and a coil. Come outside and the bike won't start. So I changed the plug wires right there and she started right up and I haven't had an issue since put about 30 miles on her with no trouble. So I'm entirely positive yet but think it's fixed and it was bad wires, thanks for all the help guys you've been great
So lets go back to square one, you are getting power to the coil, this should be on the white/black wire, this comes from the run switch, that means you are getting power through the run and through the bank switch.
Your ignition is getting power since the light is flashing, this probably means your cam positioning sensor is good.
You need to check for spark at your plugs.
You can not check this with a test light, this is high voltage your test light is 12v, low voltage.
I posted a link for a tester this is the best way to check for spark, you can take out a spark plug ground it to test but this takes too long, everything has cooled down and your conditions have changed.
I am pretty sure discount sells these.
You need to check for spark.
Then we will know which direction to go.
You also need to study the schematic that I posted, you need to know a basis of the current flow. Finding the problem is not as important as understanding how things work.
make a copy and take a felt pen to trace the current flow.
Also starforbrian advised you to put dielectric grease on all your connectors, on a bike your age this is very important.
Go back and read some of the posts, by now you have a basis for your problem and some of the advice will make more since, some of it is throwing ideas on the wall and seeing what sticks some of it is good stuff.
As it looks now if you do not have spark when you die then it looks like the ignition module is bad, but lets check for spark.
It is not a bad idea to test your coil, the instruction are in your manual spacific to your coil, you will need an ohm meter, something you should have anyway.
Testing will not prove a good coil but can show a bad one.
Last edited by Harleycruiser; Apr 12, 2015 at 06:12 PM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 46
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From: westfield mass
Well I hope you found the issue, plug wires are the most ignored part on the bike, but after saying that,,,,,, the symptoms for bad wires are, hard to start, misses on one cylinder, that is bad wires, these are not your symptoms.
So lets go back to square one, you are getting power to the coil, this should be on the white/black wire, this comes from the run switch, that means you are getting power through the run and through the bank switch.
Your ignition is getting power since the light is flashing, this probably means your cam positioning sensor is good.
You need to check for spark at your plugs.
You can not check this with a test light, this is high voltage your test light is 12v, low voltage.
I posted a link for a tester this is the best way to check for spark, you can take out a spark plug ground it to test but this takes too long, everything has cooled down and your conditions have changed.
I am pretty sure discount sells these.
You need to check for spark.
Then we will know which direction to go.
You also need to study the schematic that I posted, you need to know a basis of the current flow. Finding the problem is not as important as understanding how things work.
make a copy and take a felt pen to trace the current flow.
Also starforbrian advised you to put dielectric grease on all your connectors, on a bike your age this is very important.
Go back and read some of the posts, by now you have a basis for your problem and some of the advice will make more since, some of it is throwing ideas on the wall and seeing what sticks some of it is good stuff.
As it looks now if you do not have spark when you die then it looks like the ignition module is bad, but lets check for spark.
It is not a bad idea to test your coil, the instruction are in your manual spacific to your coil, you will need an ohm meter, something you should have anyway.
Testing will not prove a good coil but can show a bad one.
So lets go back to square one, you are getting power to the coil, this should be on the white/black wire, this comes from the run switch, that means you are getting power through the run and through the bank switch.
Your ignition is getting power since the light is flashing, this probably means your cam positioning sensor is good.
You need to check for spark at your plugs.
You can not check this with a test light, this is high voltage your test light is 12v, low voltage.
I posted a link for a tester this is the best way to check for spark, you can take out a spark plug ground it to test but this takes too long, everything has cooled down and your conditions have changed.
I am pretty sure discount sells these.
You need to check for spark.
Then we will know which direction to go.
You also need to study the schematic that I posted, you need to know a basis of the current flow. Finding the problem is not as important as understanding how things work.
make a copy and take a felt pen to trace the current flow.
Also starforbrian advised you to put dielectric grease on all your connectors, on a bike your age this is very important.
Go back and read some of the posts, by now you have a basis for your problem and some of the advice will make more since, some of it is throwing ideas on the wall and seeing what sticks some of it is good stuff.
As it looks now if you do not have spark when you die then it looks like the ignition module is bad, but lets check for spark.
It is not a bad idea to test your coil, the instruction are in your manual spacific to your coil, you will need an ohm meter, something you should have anyway.
Testing will not prove a good coil but can show a bad one.