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When I tested the plug wires in the no start condition it wouldn't even light the test light. But when it was running good and I tested it the test light will light up with it. So it does work to test if anything is getting to the plugs at all. And when the new plug wires went on today i put grease in them. And I have been riding the bike all night without any problems at all almost a full tank. it even starts a lot easier and faster then it was before.
Okay so unfortunatly after new plug wires and a coil the problem was gone all day yesterday but back first thing this morning. So I did more looking at wiring and testing different things. So I had the bike idling with the cover off the ignition module and I was using a heat gun on it to get it hot. While it's hot if I push on it with my finger in certain spots the bike will die and give me the exact no start condition I was having, even though the red light still flashes. I think its a broken connection inside the module. So with that said I'm going to replace it. But I can't figure out how to get it off. Does anybody know? Do I have to take off the whole side cover?
Read post 12 and 23.
I mark my plate with a scribe but like mrfikser said you can use a marker, the mark is so that you you can replace it in the same position, the position of the plate changes your timing..
The plate is held in place by the two post, that slot is for a big screw driver.
You are also going to need to unplug your connector, and pull out the pins so that you can pull the wires out of the housing, this information should be in your factory manual.
Read post 12 and 23.
I mark my plate with a scribe but like mrfikser said you can use a marker, the mark is so that you you can replace it in the same position, the position of the plate changes your timing..
The plate is held in place by the two post, that slot is for a big screw driver.
Okay thankyou i didnt realize the post unscrewed now it makes sense. But I don't have a factory manual at the moment I bought the bike used. Is there any special tools for pulling the wire pins? And reconnecting them?
Okay thankyou i didnt realize the post unscrewed now it makes sense. But I don't have a factory manual at the moment I bought the bike used. Is there any special tools for pulling the wire pins? And reconnecting them?
Well I dont have a Sportster anymore, and my manual is for a 86 that had the ignition on the side, not the nose cone. Harley uses three or four different manufactures for connectors depending on who make the module for them.
You can use a real small screw driver or pin depending on the type but each is different.
Maybe someone with an manual for your bike will chime in.
Just be prepared for a lecture on trying to diagnose problems without a FM.
your bike reads the crank position off of the cams, behind the points cover...I would say that because your tech quits at the same time as the engine that you are prolly heading in the right directions for your issue....the spark controller is behind the small right side cover, which is riveted on the rivets are easy to drill out, just drill off the heads, remove cover and then use vice grips to pull the rest of the rivet out (they are aluminum rivets, and replace with screws), behind the cover you will find a plate and behind that is the controller and behind that is a bell shaped thing with a slot cut in it attached to the end of that cam shaft...the bell come loose sometimes (the bell "tells" the spark controller when to spark)....the controllers do go bad and a common symptom is for them to quit when they get hot...there are aftermarket ones avail. I used this one http://www.jpcycles.com/product/730-577 and it works good...to do one test on the one you have you should have 12v at the coil on the small wire that should turn off and on as the motor turns over ( your issue is intermittent and will probably read good) as, far as I know there is no other test for the spark controller...also check all the wireing to the coil including the crimp on ends and make sure the coil is tight to the frame for a good ground...I would also check to make sure you battery connections are good, I know it doesn't sound right for this issue, but stranger things have happened.....let us know how it goes....
Hey mrfikser I was looking at buying that spark controller that you suggests and was just about to purchase it before I read in the installation notes about needing a different timing rotor, they say that some models need the older style timing rotor part number 32402-83.do you kno anything about this? does this apply to my 2001 sporster 1200c? And if it does is it a hard swap to change the timing rotor?
Hey mrfikser I was looking at buying that spark controller that you suggests and was just about to purchase it before I read in the installation notes about needing a different timing rotor, they say that some models need the older style timing rotor part number 32402-83.do you kno anything about this? does this apply to my 2001 sporster 1200c? And if it does is it a hard swap to change the timing rotor?
Well I'm not mrfikser but download the instructions, it gives that info.
That number if for a part starting in 83, your bike is later.
Last edited by Harleycruiser; Apr 14, 2015 at 09:09 PM.
Hey mrfikser I was looking at buying that spark controller that you suggests and was just about to purchase it before I read in the installation notes about needing a different timing rotor, they say that some models need the older style timing rotor part number 32402-83.do you kno anything about this? does this apply to my 2001 sporster 1200c? And if it does is it a hard swap to change the timing rotor?
you should be good, once you get the controller out, which isn't too hard, you will see the timing rotor behind it and it just has a bolt or a nut (I can't remember which) holding it onto the cam shaft, it is keyed so you can't put it on wrong unless you try really hard to ( you shouldn't need to remove it though)...the hardest part is fishing the wires in and out of the housing, you will need some tie wraps to keep the wires where you want them once you are done with the installation...the new fuel controller will come with instructions on how to set it up, its very easy...
Yea I ended up talking to a couple places and they said that my timing rotor is the one I need it's the older bikes that need to change it. But anyways I placed an order for a twin tec 1005s today. Got it for 255$ and it'll be here Friday. So I'll let you know how it all goes
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