Question on Handlebars
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 952
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From: Great State of NC
Question on Handlebars
I own a 2006 1200 roadster and want to change out the bars. I was going to change them out a few month ago until the dealership I was going to said I would need new cables if I changed bars. I do not want anything drastic but that just did not sound right.
I am 6' tall and a big boy but not sure what type of bars to get. Any suggestions? Drag or mini ape seem to be the most popular. What are the advantages or disadvantages to each,a nd would I need new longer cables for either?
Thanks for all the input.
I am 6' tall and a big boy but not sure what type of bars to get. Any suggestions? Drag or mini ape seem to be the most popular. What are the advantages or disadvantages to each,a nd would I need new longer cables for either?
Thanks for all the input.
6th Gear
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 10
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From:
RE: Question on Handlebars
Are you wanting to change your bars to get more room? If so, mini apes might be the way to go, but they would require new cables. You would have to reach a little farther with drag bars then with the bars you have on your bike right now so they might feel a little better for you and you shouldn't have to change the cables, but you would probably want to change your riser. IMO you should get the bars you like best and even if it cost you a little more for cables. Your 6' tall, so the apes will not feel to high for you. In fact you should see if you can sit on a freinds bike that's set up the way you like and see how they feel. Anyway, that's my two cents.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 100
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From:
RE: Question on Handlebars
im 6' also and JUST changed to mini apes today. i left the stock riser and bolted right to. i did it all through the dealer and bought steel braided cables. looks nice (even though the cables are a little too long). took them all day to make the swap and was a little pricey.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 114
Likes: 1
From: Boston, Ma
RE: Question on Handlebars
I did this project over the winter, I am by no means a great wrench, but was able to do it all myself. I went with 8 inch rise buckhorns instead of the apes though. I switched all the lines to the steel braided and swapped out the grips as well. It is pretty pricy, but with a manual you can save yourself a lot of cash doing it yourself, it is all pretty straightforward stuff. I bought +6 clutch, throttle, and idle cables. For the front brake, (single disc) I used +4. I also had to get a 6 inch wiring extension. I am 6'2" and I like the buckhorns a lot better than the stock bar, for me it is more comfortable then reaching forward. I would first see if anyone has a set up you are looking for before changing anything over though, the bars I used came off my brothers old sporty so I knew beforehand I would like the set-up.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Great State of NC
RE: Question on Handlebars
I called the dealership today and would have to change most cables. I am just worried the drag bars would not be comfortable. I like the feel of the 1200 lowrider bars and am unsure about the drag bars. Anyone have any input on the longhorn bars?
Really want to make this bike stand out so any inputs would be apprecaited!
Really want to make this bike stand out so any inputs would be apprecaited!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,272
Likes: 10
From: Orange VA
RE: Question on Handlebars
First figure out what you want. You know you want something different so you are halfway there. But how different? How do the stock bars feel to you? Are you sore after a while or wish your hands were in a different position? Do you want to lean back more or lean forward in a more aggressive race-like position.
Sit on the bike with your eyes closed in a position like you would be riding. Reach out as if to grab the bars - try not to remember where the stock bars are. Just reach for where your body 'thinks' they should be. When your arms are there, in a comfortable position, open your eyes and see where that is in relation to the stock bars.
(Use that same technique to decide if drag bars are right for you. With your eyes open, put your hands out, directly below your grips, in line with the riser. Imagine riding that way for an hour. How's that feel? Want drags?)
Ok, so you kinda have an idea now of what you want. Take that idea shopping with you. Try bikes with bars about where you want to be if you can. Have someone hold different bars up on your bike to try them out if you can. Then buy some.
As far as cables go, you could likely reuse the stock cables if you went with a drag bar. If anything you will shorten the distance to things so worst case you have some excess. Under 4" that's likely not going to require new cables - unless you decide you want stainless braided.
1200L bars, buckhorn, longhorn, and apes, will more than likely require cables, and could also need turn signal wiring, and control wiring extensions. Apes will for certain.
If you DIY the project, with cables and wiring, estimate spending about $300-400. That's where probably 80% of bar swaps seem to price out at. Labor could be another $100+ depending on who's doing it and what they charge.
Last note if you have to post pics of whatever you put on there so choose wisely.
Good luck.
Sit on the bike with your eyes closed in a position like you would be riding. Reach out as if to grab the bars - try not to remember where the stock bars are. Just reach for where your body 'thinks' they should be. When your arms are there, in a comfortable position, open your eyes and see where that is in relation to the stock bars.
(Use that same technique to decide if drag bars are right for you. With your eyes open, put your hands out, directly below your grips, in line with the riser. Imagine riding that way for an hour. How's that feel? Want drags?)
Ok, so you kinda have an idea now of what you want. Take that idea shopping with you. Try bikes with bars about where you want to be if you can. Have someone hold different bars up on your bike to try them out if you can. Then buy some.
As far as cables go, you could likely reuse the stock cables if you went with a drag bar. If anything you will shorten the distance to things so worst case you have some excess. Under 4" that's likely not going to require new cables - unless you decide you want stainless braided.
1200L bars, buckhorn, longhorn, and apes, will more than likely require cables, and could also need turn signal wiring, and control wiring extensions. Apes will for certain.
If you DIY the project, with cables and wiring, estimate spending about $300-400. That's where probably 80% of bar swaps seem to price out at. Labor could be another $100+ depending on who's doing it and what they charge.
Last note if you have to post pics of whatever you put on there so choose wisely.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Great State of NC
RE: Question on Handlebars
I have already repositioned the signals on the forks so they are out of the mix. I am deciding I guess between the low bars and longhorn bars.
Thanks for your inputs
Thanks for your inputs
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,272
Likes: 10
From: Orange VA
RE: Question on Handlebars
Good on the turn signals. I did that too. The kit was worth the money to not have to hassle with it. Plus it cleans up the bars and fills out the forks some.
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Great State of NC
RE: Question on Handlebars
The only thing I had a problem with is the way the wire runs, but I am not messing with it until I buy new bars. I DO NOT want to cut the wires to re-run them.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,272
Likes: 10
From: Orange VA
RE: Question on Handlebars
Have you thought about lowering the rear at all? While it began life as an R, and still is on the inside, it looks like you have put together a nice, blacked out Custom. Tucking the wheel up into the bob fender some would add a lot.