Primary and clutch
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 282
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From: England
Primary and clutch
Been having a problem with the clutch and gear lever, anyway I have replaced the clutch plates and want to get to the springs which needs me to take the clutch and stator sprockets off.
Does anyone know the size of the nut on the stator sprocket and I need to know a few other things.
1. What is the torque setting of the stator sprocket nut and the clutch nut.
2. Will I need to use loctite on them once I put them back and what strength.
3. Do I need to align the spring boards/pullies once I remove the springs and gear level plate.
The manual isn't great.
My bike is a 2001 XLH1200C
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone know the size of the nut on the stator sprocket and I need to know a few other things.
1. What is the torque setting of the stator sprocket nut and the clutch nut.
2. Will I need to use loctite on them once I put them back and what strength.
3. Do I need to align the spring boards/pullies once I remove the springs and gear level plate.
The manual isn't great.
My bike is a 2001 XLH1200C
Thanks in advance.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 27,097
Likes: 4,676
From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Maybe I'm having an old age brain fart, but what springs? The clutch "spring" is the pressure plate you had to take off to change the plates, and the "spring plate" comes off with the rest of the plates (I hope you didn't re-use that thing, weakest link in a Sportster); neither require removing the sprockets.
Not sure my '04 manual has the same torques, can't find my '00 manual at the moment, but both take Loctite 262 (red). Don't soak the threads with it, one good drop is enough; you want to be able to get it off again. If it doesn't want to break loose, heating (more than a hair dryer) loosens Loctite. And remember the clutch/transmission sprocket nut is left hand thread. You'll need something to put between the sprockets to hold them, there are a variety of cheap sprocket holders available, some guys have made their own out of the right length of aluminum or even hardwood; I don't know the dimensions offhand.
Not sure my '04 manual has the same torques, can't find my '00 manual at the moment, but both take Loctite 262 (red). Don't soak the threads with it, one good drop is enough; you want to be able to get it off again. If it doesn't want to break loose, heating (more than a hair dryer) loosens Loctite. And remember the clutch/transmission sprocket nut is left hand thread. You'll need something to put between the sprockets to hold them, there are a variety of cheap sprocket holders available, some guys have made their own out of the right length of aluminum or even hardwood; I don't know the dimensions offhand.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
Maybe I'm having an old age brain fart, but what springs? The clutch "spring" is the pressure plate you had to take off to change the plates, and the "spring plate" comes off with the rest of the plates (I hope you didn't re-use that thing, weakest link in a Sportster); neither require removing the sprockets.
Not sure my '04 manual has the same torques, can't find my '00 manual at the moment, but both take Loctite 262 (red). Don't soak the threads with it, one good drop is enough; you want to be able to get it off again. If it doesn't want to break loose, heating (more than a hair dryer) loosens Loctite. And remember the clutch/transmission sprocket nut is left hand thread. You'll need something to put between the sprockets to hold them, there are a variety of cheap sprocket holders available, some guys have made their own out of the right length of aluminum or even hardwood; I don't know the dimensions offhand.
Not sure my '04 manual has the same torques, can't find my '00 manual at the moment, but both take Loctite 262 (red). Don't soak the threads with it, one good drop is enough; you want to be able to get it off again. If it doesn't want to break loose, heating (more than a hair dryer) loosens Loctite. And remember the clutch/transmission sprocket nut is left hand thread. You'll need something to put between the sprockets to hold them, there are a variety of cheap sprocket holders available, some guys have made their own out of the right length of aluminum or even hardwood; I don't know the dimensions offhand.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 282
Likes: 29
From: England
Sorry for late reply.
I took all the old plates out and put new ones in with the clutch mod of extra plates ( friction and steel ) and leaving out the spring plate.
The spring I am talking about are the ones that all connect to the gear lever change mechanism.
I took all the old plates out and put new ones in with the clutch mod of extra plates ( friction and steel ) and leaving out the spring plate.
The spring I am talking about are the ones that all connect to the gear lever change mechanism.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 27,097
Likes: 4,676
From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Ok, you do have to remove the drive sprockets. The manual says to put it in 5th gear while doing this; I don't know if that really makes a difference. Loosen the front drive sprocket first; if it's real tight, can use a puller with bolts threaded into the side of the sprocket. Don't try to pull it all the way off yet. The nut is standard right hand thread.
Removing the clutch - not all sockets will fit, might have to get a thin wall. You have to leave the clutch plates in, too. This one is left hand thread. Pull the sprockets and chain off all together. They'll go back on this way, too.
Be prepared to get new gaskets, too. Sometimes they tear coming off. I always use new anyway, not a job I'd want to do over because an old gasket leaked. That's my grandson putting a new cover gasket on my 1200C in the sig pic, let him do a few easy steps when I put new plates in mine. I think that was a good decision eliminating your riveted spring plate, mine had loose rivets but none had broken yet, and I put all solid plates in, too.
Be glad at this time you don't have an '04 or later. The first step in the '04 and up manual is, "Remove the engine".
Removing the clutch - not all sockets will fit, might have to get a thin wall. You have to leave the clutch plates in, too. This one is left hand thread. Pull the sprockets and chain off all together. They'll go back on this way, too.
Be prepared to get new gaskets, too. Sometimes they tear coming off. I always use new anyway, not a job I'd want to do over because an old gasket leaked. That's my grandson putting a new cover gasket on my 1200C in the sig pic, let him do a few easy steps when I put new plates in mine. I think that was a good decision eliminating your riveted spring plate, mine had loose rivets but none had broken yet, and I put all solid plates in, too.
Be glad at this time you don't have an '04 or later. The first step in the '04 and up manual is, "Remove the engine".
Last edited by Imold; Apr 6, 2016 at 12:36 PM.
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Stellar HDF Member
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https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...placement.html
That thread will get you to the underside of the chain/sprockets. Torques and loctite are in the write up. I just had the trans. out a couple weeks ago, and it was much easier to get everything off this time around. Still use the 4ft gas pipe.
As far as adjusting the shift pawl, there is a setting in the manual that tells you how to do the alignment with a No.32 drill bit. Follow that procedure. The springs are either good or no good, if they're out of tolerance replace them (it would be unusual for them to be, though). If you haven't had any shifting problems, you probably don't need to do this procedure however. Mine was out a bit after the accident and it still worked, but neutral was a pain and it would sometime miss a shift. Now it's fine again.
That thread will get you to the underside of the chain/sprockets. Torques and loctite are in the write up. I just had the trans. out a couple weeks ago, and it was much easier to get everything off this time around. Still use the 4ft gas pipe.
As far as adjusting the shift pawl, there is a setting in the manual that tells you how to do the alignment with a No.32 drill bit. Follow that procedure. The springs are either good or no good, if they're out of tolerance replace them (it would be unusual for them to be, though). If you haven't had any shifting problems, you probably don't need to do this procedure however. Mine was out a bit after the accident and it still worked, but neutral was a pain and it would sometime miss a shift. Now it's fine again.
Last edited by Scuba10jdl; Apr 6, 2016 at 02:00 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 282
Likes: 29
From: England
Thanks for the advice, everyone, taken off the clutch and state cover.
funny you should mention about crash, I had two off's in an hour from diesel on the road before I laid the bike up.
funny you should mention about crash, I had two off's in an hour from diesel on the road before I laid the bike up.
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