S&S woes continue...
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 508
Likes: 31
From: California
S&S woes continue...
Picked up a rigid 1200 a few months back with an S&S super E. Never ran right in the mid range, but about a month and a half ago it started fouling plugs every ride. Took it to my indy shop, they said it just needed a tune. I originally wanted to change to a Mikuni, but they suggested I at least try to get the S&S carb in shape.
Got it tuned, but sure enough it was fouling plugs again. Took it back to the same shop and they said the carb needed to be rebuilt.
They pull the carb off and find a small crack in the float bowl from where previous owner had tightened a bolt too hard. The shop reportedly fixed the crack, changed the intake seals, rebuilt and tuned card. Picked up bike, ride home was fine.
First ride since the rebuild (maybe 8 days) and it fouls on first ride. Lots of backfiring and if you crack the throttle the bike just dies out. At this point, what else could it be?! Part of me just wants to yank it and switch to the Mikuni, but I am already $400 in the hole trying to get the S&S working right. What would you guys recommend?
Got it tuned, but sure enough it was fouling plugs again. Took it back to the same shop and they said the carb needed to be rebuilt.
They pull the carb off and find a small crack in the float bowl from where previous owner had tightened a bolt too hard. The shop reportedly fixed the crack, changed the intake seals, rebuilt and tuned card. Picked up bike, ride home was fine.
First ride since the rebuild (maybe 8 days) and it fouls on first ride. Lots of backfiring and if you crack the throttle the bike just dies out. At this point, what else could it be?! Part of me just wants to yank it and switch to the Mikuni, but I am already $400 in the hole trying to get the S&S working right. What would you guys recommend?
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 188
Likes: 29
From: Idaho
I've been a huge Mikuni fan for more than 40 years (from Enduro/Dual Purp, Moto-X, Street, and a Y*maha factory road racer). Mukinis can be great replacements for old/ancient Amals, Bings, etc once you tune them right. But for your machine I'd second cvaria's advice and just get a stocker. I say this because there are plenty of affordable parts/jets and tuning info out there.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Unfortunately you have what sounds like a secondhand backyard special, with a carb that is renown for the abuse some owners inflict upon it. I've had an S&S on my Glide for years and it runs just fine, with no running problems to date, so IMHO you have been unfairly treated by Fate.
What to do next? An S&S can run just fine and there are countless bikes out there with them. There are even more bikes with stock c/v carbs and a good stock one can be had for reasonable money. However if you are convinced a Mikuni is the way to go, don't hesitate. BUT - don't cheap out on installing and tuning it, otherwise you will have spent even more money and be no better off! If you can't get it to run right pdq find someone who can sort it for you.
What to do next? An S&S can run just fine and there are countless bikes out there with them. There are even more bikes with stock c/v carbs and a good stock one can be had for reasonable money. However if you are convinced a Mikuni is the way to go, don't hesitate. BUT - don't cheap out on installing and tuning it, otherwise you will have spent even more money and be no better off! If you can't get it to run right pdq find someone who can sort it for you.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 10,291
Likes: 7,773
From: West Central FL
I'd say stop taking it to that shop and get on the phone to S&S. I've been using S&S carbs since the '70's and anytime I've been stuck with a problem, I call them and they're always willing to take time and help me out. Nobody knows the S&S like the people who build it.
That being said, first thing I'd do is make sure the accelerator pump is properly adjusted. Then I'd pull the bowl and have a look at the pump diaphragm In the mean time enjoy -
https://www.google.com/search?q=s%26...ih=949#imgrc=_
That being said, first thing I'd do is make sure the accelerator pump is properly adjusted. Then I'd pull the bowl and have a look at the pump diaphragm In the mean time enjoy -
https://www.google.com/search?q=s%26...ih=949#imgrc=_
Last edited by Hey Man; Jan 2, 2018 at 06:01 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 212
1st step: Set it back to factory jetting and settings for your bike. Start with a clean canvas and no weirdness.
The only way to do the S&S is to follow their tuning instructions: https://www.sscycle.com/docs/default...e.pdf?sfvrsn=2 Step #9 about the air bleed, only change that after you've exhausted all jetting options. Then start over again with the new air jet.
It's a dirt simple carb, but people continue to make it out to be mystical and complicated. You follow those 10 steps and you can get it to work. The E on my ironhead runs great.
That said, if you've got drag pipes on any Evo or newer motor, you'll never get the E to respond right.
The only way to do the S&S is to follow their tuning instructions: https://www.sscycle.com/docs/default...e.pdf?sfvrsn=2 Step #9 about the air bleed, only change that after you've exhausted all jetting options. Then start over again with the new air jet.
It's a dirt simple carb, but people continue to make it out to be mystical and complicated. You follow those 10 steps and you can get it to work. The E on my ironhead runs great.
That said, if you've got drag pipes on any Evo or newer motor, you'll never get the E to respond right.
Last edited by Scuba10jdl; Jan 2, 2018 at 06:06 PM.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 508
Likes: 31
From: California
Hey guys thanks for the advice. Wasn't expecting so many responses so I want to be a little more clear about the bike's history:
The bike actually has a built 2002 Buell M2 Cyclone engine with hi-comp pistons, ported and polished heads, crankworks flywheel, etc etc. Super E with Thunderjet. Bike was built about 3 years ago and then sold to a rich kid who let it sit for about a year before I picked it up.
Kid I bought it from swear he never had any issues, but even he said he only put on about 500mi in the almost 2 years he owned it. So, it sat.
My buddy has a Super E on his 1200 and it runs great. I have a Mikuni on another 1200 in my garage and it runs great.
Mikunis aren't very expensive anymore (under $250 on Amazon) so if I'm going to swap the carb, I might as well go Mikuni over stock. BUT I'm just wondering if it's worth giving to my indy for a 3rd time to see if they can right their wrong on the S&S?
UPDATE: just spoke to my indy and he says it's because I'm letting the bike warm up with the choke ON for too long? I let the bike warm up for maybe 3-4 mins steadily decreasing choke, but even 3-4 mins is usually not long enough to warm the bike up to the point that I can take the choke all the way off without the bike dying.
The bike actually has a built 2002 Buell M2 Cyclone engine with hi-comp pistons, ported and polished heads, crankworks flywheel, etc etc. Super E with Thunderjet. Bike was built about 3 years ago and then sold to a rich kid who let it sit for about a year before I picked it up.
Kid I bought it from swear he never had any issues, but even he said he only put on about 500mi in the almost 2 years he owned it. So, it sat.
My buddy has a Super E on his 1200 and it runs great. I have a Mikuni on another 1200 in my garage and it runs great.
Mikunis aren't very expensive anymore (under $250 on Amazon) so if I'm going to swap the carb, I might as well go Mikuni over stock. BUT I'm just wondering if it's worth giving to my indy for a 3rd time to see if they can right their wrong on the S&S?
UPDATE: just spoke to my indy and he says it's because I'm letting the bike warm up with the choke ON for too long? I let the bike warm up for maybe 3-4 mins steadily decreasing choke, but even 3-4 mins is usually not long enough to warm the bike up to the point that I can take the choke all the way off without the bike dying.
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
I don't warm up any of my bikes. Start - let it settle - ride off gently - push choke off after a couple of miles or so - steadily increase pace until all seems well with the world.
As a fellow Buell owner I'm interested in your engine, but what exhaust do you have? I just hope its a 'proper' system!
As a fellow Buell owner I'm interested in your engine, but what exhaust do you have? I just hope its a 'proper' system!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 10,291
Likes: 7,773
From: West Central FL
At dead cold I start mine with the enrichener full on for about 15 seconds then close it to about half for another 30 seconds. Then I lock the throttle open to 1100/1200 rpm's until my helmet & gloves are on and it's ready to go.
