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Hey everyone! Seems only trouble has me posting here unfortunately! Youve helped me out tremendously before and I hope it will be the same this time around.
Ive cycled through several ACs. Starting with AN Big Sucker2, thing was massive and busted my shin a couple times on bumpy roads, the TC Bros dog dish, worked great and bike ran perfect, until I eyed up. BCM Custom Moto Pinner. Man the thing is a work of art but now Im in a bit of trouble.
while I had everything off I decided to route the head bolts to a breather filter via couple rubber lines and a T splitter. Out of site, out of mind, and no oil on the jugs.
While doing that, I disconnected the V splitter of my VOES, flipped it and re-attached to hide lines a little further (not kinked at all).
Lastly I mounted the BCM AC and adjusted the air/fuel mix by turning the screw all the way in until it died and then out 2.5 to start testing, I went all the way to 3.5 turns out and at WOT it just dies as if it hits a rev limiter! If I gradually open the throttle it will take it all the way up the power band and accelerate as it should but if I just whip it, it sounds like Im just bouncing off the rev limiter.
My question are:
Am I not getting enough fuel and need to rejet? (Currently running V&H Straight shots, no baffles and the Pinner AC)
Do I have an intake or carb leak?
Did my VOES take a 💩?
I will be putting on my old AC to see if I can isolate the issue some more but ANY help, advice or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Intake leak is my guess. Have you changed the seals to the heads and the carb seal to the manifold. 2.5 turns should be about right, 3.5 too many. What jets are in your carb now? Doubt the VOES is bad. Did you take the top off the carb (needle/slide)?
John
Last edited by John Harper; Apr 1, 2018 at 07:19 AM.
Intake leak is my guess. Have you changed the seals to the heads and the carb seal to the manifold. 2.5 turns should be about right, 3.5 too many. What jets are in your carb now? Doubt the VOES is bad. Did you take the top off the carb (needle/slide)?
John
I inspected the ring to the mani and it was perfect, no rot nothing looked like it was new! My thought was 2.5 turns would bring me to stock(ish) and with the baffles out and be AC that 3 would be perfect, thats how it worked out with the Arlen Ness Big Sucker 2.
I didnt touch heads or seals at all. Currently its a bone stock CV carb right out the factory. I didnt open up the carb at all other than to check the butterfly to make sure it opens and closes with throttle.
Should I do the propane test around the seals? Any other tricks to find a potential leak?
at WOT it just dies as if it hits a rev limiter! If I gradually open the throttle it will take it all the way up the power band and accelerate as it should but if I just whip it, it sounds like Im just bouncing off the rev limiter.
Did you check that the accelerator pump nozzle is squirting fuel into the carb throat when twisting the throttle open?
Currently its a bone stock CV carb right out the factory.
If you've added a higher flowing AC and exhaust, you'll likely need to increase the sizes of the carb jets. Typical starting sizes for a 1200 are #45 pilot & #180 main.
If you haven't opened it up, your pilot jet/idle mixture passages may be gummed up, the accelerator nozzle too, as cHarley mentions. If your idle mix needle isn't doing anything that could be a symptom too.
Did you check that the accelerator pump nozzle is squirting fuel into the carb throat when twisting the throttle open?
I am seeing (and smelling fumes) gas when i whip the throttle.
If you've added a higher flowing AC and exhaust, you'll likely need to increase the sizes of the carb jets. Typical starting sizes for a 1200 are #45 pilot & #180 main.
What is super strange is that with the Arlen Ness Big Sucker Stage 2 it ran perfect! That thing is so big with just a massive K&N filter it should get much more air!
If you haven't opened it up, your pilot jet/idle mixture passages may be gummed up, the accelerator nozzle too, as cHarley mentions. If your idle mix needle isn't doing anything that could be a symptom too.
John
Idle screw and mix screw both definitely working, I can choke out the bike to stall (when I reset the mixture). I am definitely leaning towards a leak or re-jet.
So this ran great till you put on new aircleaner and flipped VOES correct? Doubt if aircleaner did this so lets see if VOES is bad. here is test procedure out Harley Manual for 95-03
Start the engine and allow it to idle.
b. Disconnect the VOES vacuum hose from the carbu
retor
(Figure 92) with the engine idling at 1000-1050
rpm. Maintain this engine rpm when performing
substep c.
c. Plug the carburetor VOES port. With the port
blocked, the engine speed should decrease and the ig
nition
timing should retard—check with the timing
light. When the vacuum hose is reconnected to the
VOES port, the engine speed should increase.
d. If the engine failed to operate as described in
substep c, check the VOES wire connection at the
ignition module. Also check the VOES ground wire
for looseness or damage. If the wire connections are
okay, test the VOES switch as described in Chapter
Twelve.
So this ran great till you put on new aircleaner and flipped VOES correct? Doubt if aircleaner did this so lets see if VOES is bad. here is test procedure out Harley Manual for 95-03
Start the engine and allow it to idle.
b. Disconnect the VOES vacuum hose from the carbu
retor
(Figure 92) with the engine idling at 1000-1050
rpm. Maintain this engine rpm when performing
substep c.
c. Plug the carburetor VOES port. With the port
blocked, the engine speed should decrease and the ig
nition
timing should retardcheck with the timing
light. When the vacuum hose is reconnected to the
VOES port, the engine speed should increase.
d. If the engine failed to operate as described in
substep c, check the VOES wire connection at the
ignition module. Also check the VOES ground wire
for looseness or damage. If the wire connections are
okay, test the VOES switch as described in Chapter
Twelve.
Going to try this tomorrow after the rain passes! Thank you so much!
You can check the VOES with a multimeter and vacuum/fuel pump tester as well. The resistance between the leads should switch with a certain amount of vacuum supplied to the VOES vacuum port. I assume "infinity" (open) to some low number (closed) of Ohms. It's basically an on/off switch triggered by vacuum. I still can't see how it's killing the engine, it just retards the spark a tad under load.
I think it's what Chapter Twelve in norman's post refers to.
Are you sure your new aircleaner or gasket is not blocking the "air bleed" port on the carburetor mouth? I don't think anyone has mentioned that yet.
That new aircleaner looks nice, seems they come from my city.
John
Last edited by John Harper; Apr 3, 2018 at 07:09 PM.
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