Sportster head temps and ambient temps?
If you look at some of the tables using your FP3 it will show various temperatures for when the FI system will make adjustments. That should give you an idea of where that head temperature fits in. Again there are quite a few posts about running temperatures.
That is too high.
Or after shutting off and heat sink setting in?
You tuned.
Maybe you are lean somewhere in the tune table.
The standard answers are to add an oil cooler (which also increases oil capacity) and switch to synthetic oil.
The next step is to add a fan to the cooler.
Lastly then there is the termed "Love Jugs" fans to blow air onto the cylinders.
Good luck.
increases
The head temp also has a lot to do with where the sensor is. 412 does seem high though. Never measured by sportster but my Fatboy never got over 340.
I spoke to a master tech at buddy stubbs harley and he said for those ambient temps its normal. Bike is also brand new and going in for its 1000 mile service tomorrow. Synthetic will be going in. Mobile 1 vtwin
Below is copied from another Sportster forum so I can't vouch for the accuracy:
Optimum Oil Temperature as quoted from Harley-Davidson in February, 2010 issue of American Rider magazine, page 49.
Question: "What are the optimum operating oil temperatures for both the XL and Twin Cam engines? Also, what is the safe maximum temperature for each?"
Answer: "The optimum operating oil temperature for both engines is actually a temperature range depending upon the ambient temperature and type of riding. Ideally, the bulk oil (the oil in the oil tank) should be between 220 degrees and 250 degrees F during normal operation. This ensures that any water vapor that gets into the oil from the combustion process is vaporized and can be purged from the system by the breathers. For elevated ambient temperatures, the bulk oil can safely operate at temperatures up to 300 degrees F during extended idling or high-speed interstate cruising. Harley-Davidson's motor oil has been specially formulated with an enhanced anti-oxidation package to minimize oil oxidation concerns above 250 degrees F. The reserve alkalinity of our formulations has also been boosted to minimize any acid formation that could occur with elevated oil temperatures."
The Sportster is the most "honest" engine HD is currently making. The sensor is reading at the top of the rear cylinder. It is not even warmed up until 280*, and normal operating temps range between 350-420 off that sensor (which the PV displays as ET).
On Twin Cams the sensor is near the intake valve of the front cylinder. It is warmed up around 170*, and normal operating temps range between 210-230. (however, the Twin Cams have a real heat issue, and it is not unusual to see them higher than 300...while this is normal, it is NOT good).
Even at 230*, the Twin Cam is running Hotter than the Sportster at 400*. How? The temp on the front cylinder (front cylinders are always cooler) near the intake valve (which is the coolest part of the head) is an artificially low number. Taking the temp on the rear cylinder, right above the combustion chamber, gives a much more informed reading of the engine temp. Since there is no sensor on the Twin Cam at the center top of the rear cylinder (and no way to shoot a infrared in there), I don't know how hot that is getting, but it's a pretty safe bet it is MORE than 400*.
The temps you're getting are fine. If you ever get stuck in hot weather, in stop & go, you might see it creep up to 420*, if it starts going higher, I would either shut down, or get some air moving over the engine.
My 883, converted to a 1250, will run all day long, in 100* ambient temps, and will range between 380 and 410, depending on how hard I running.
Last edited by user 760292; Jun 3, 2020 at 04:30 AM.
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I would see head temps pushing 390*F, after running an AutoTune session with the FP3 I now see head temps somewhere in the 360-380"F range.
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