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So...long story short. 2006 harley sportster 1200XL.
Clutch started clipping
Ordered extra clutch plate kit
Took everything apart
Went to crank down the spring on the clutch plate to be able to snap the c clamp into the clutch hub fingers. Damn thing wouldn't even get close to being able to snap the c ring in so had to crank it a bit more. Then SNAP! Clutch plate has cracks.
I see these damn videos where some dude gives it a nice easy crank around twice and then puts the c clamp in the fingers, and from what I'm seeing you've gotta crank the **** out of this **** in order to be able to get that c clamp in there. Anyone know what I'm talking about? Am I missing some magical step?
When I dismantled a 2008 clutch I was surprised how easy it was to compress the clutch plate spring to get the retaining ring out. The instructions I read were very clear that it doesn't take a lot of force to do the job.
On my clutch there is a L shaped spring-inner seat designed to stop the retaining ring from coming out. Once the clutch plate spring is compressed that goes loose. I wonder if you didn't spot that.
On assembly the clutch plate spring has to line up with the pressure plate. It is possible you were out a little.
I saw the L shaped retaining ring. I was able to get it out the first time, but in order to get that c clamp out I had to really crunch down on that sucker. If I just give it the couple turns that they show there isn't nearly enough room to get the L shaped retaining spring, let alone put the c clamp retaining spring in there. One of the harley mechanics I go to normally said I didn't even need the tool for the compression spring. I was like 'no fkin way you could do this without it', unless you're literally trying to pry the c claim retaining spring out with some needle nose and twist the **** out of it and most likely bust off some of those retaining fingers while you're at it.
The spring-inner seat should be loose once the clutch plate spring is compressed. It then needs pushing in so that the retaining ring is free to be removed by gentle leverage toward the centre and then out. There is no real force needed.
I have something almost identical to that that I used. I'm going to try to take a video and post it once I get my parts. Because, maybe I'm just a complete moron and am not understanding basic engineering. Anything is possible...I'll keep you all posted. Maybe I can save someone else from snapping their pressure plate in half.
I use a rather unusual style of clutch compression tool that has three capstans that are turned with finger pressure . Despite having a heavy duty spring , I have no problem at all popping the C ring out of its groove . If you are using excess pressure , take a step back and see if you are doing something fundamentally wrong . You only have to compress the spring sufficiently to free the C ring from the L ring ( Seat ) but they tend to stick together which requires a prod with a small screwdriver to push the L ring inwards .
Did you possibly put the diaphragm spring in backwards? Isn't it kind of dish shaped? If you're clutch started slipping, did you try and adjust it first? As the clutch wears, it will decrease free play at adjuster screw, and failure to fully engage eventually results. I guess too late for that. Good luck, please let us know what you find was the issue.
John
Last edited by John Harper; Sep 26, 2021 at 06:48 AM.
I'm with Andy,
that L-shaped washer didn't move for me to see the clip, when i changed my clutch pack.
It was loose, I just needed to move it my self, so i to broke my release plate.
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Pressure Plate Snapped
