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Sportster suddenly lost rear brake

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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 09:45 AM
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Default Sportster suddenly lost rear brake

2005 XL1200R

Rear brake pedal is going straight to the floor and not building any pressure whatsoever. Haven't worked on the brakes recently or anything like that. No obvious leaks, the fluid is full in the reservoir and looks very clean. The brake pads are nice & thick.

What should I try first? Changing the fluid (suck the old fluid out and refill with new)?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 09:57 AM
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The machine is 20 years old...

I suggest rebuilding the master cylinder and caliper, and inspect the hoses for bulges, leaks etc.

New brake hoses would not be a bad idea also.

When still available, stick with OEM parts.

Disassemble the master cylinder and the caliper before you buy any parts, make sure they are in good condition and rebuildable.

Master Cyl. rebuild kit is item 20 in the illustration:

Rear Master Cylinder Illustration

Piston and seals for caliper, if the piston is good, just replace the seals.

Caliper Illustration
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Feb 3, 2025 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 10:14 AM
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Not an unusual problem. See this recent post.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...-cylinder.html

John
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 10:24 AM
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I should mention (if it matters or means anything) when I push on the brake arm there's no reaction in the fluid. Meaning, with the cap off and I'm looking into the reservoir at the fluid, nothing happens when I reach over and pump the brake lever - no air bubbles, nothing.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 10:25 AM
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Sounds like the master cylinder went south. It's cheap and easy to rebuild. While I agree with generally sticking with OEM parts if you are going to replace the brake lines I would suggest going with stainless.
 

Last edited by OCSpringer; Feb 3, 2025 at 10:27 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 10:41 AM
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I too, have a 2005 1200R and haven't had this problem, but its been a while since i've re-flushed the fluid and to my knowledge the rear master cylinder has not been rebuilt. Is there a rebuild kit sold like there are for CV carbs? Of just take apart, inspect and order the individual parts from the HD parts diagram?

EDIT:
I see now there is a kit on that link posted above:
Ref:
22
42810-04B
KIT REBUILD,RR/MSTR CYL,XL
But aside from the lines, does that cover all the likely parts that could have went bad?
 

Last edited by tvon; Feb 3, 2025 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 10:45 AM
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How can I absolutely diagnose a bad M/C before I venture down that path?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 11:01 AM
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If the caliper seals are bad, you'd have some pressure at the master cylinder, and brake fluid all over your brake rotor. There would at least be some backpressure in the system, you have none. If the brake line is bad, you'd still have pressure at the pedal, unless the line is completely severed. Your symptoms indicate no fluid is moving, so the master cylinder is suspect.

John
 

Last edited by John Harper; Feb 3, 2025 at 11:03 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by twincam10353
How can I absolutely diagnose a bad M/C before I venture down that path?
Try bleeding the rear brake using the pedal and see if you can get fluid to come out the bleeder on the caliper. If fluid doesn't want to come out or if a bunch of air comes with it, that will give you a clue to where the problem lies.
 

Last edited by OCSpringer; Feb 3, 2025 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
The machine is 20 years old...

I suggest rebuilding the master cylinder and caliper, and inspect the hoses for bulges, leaks etc.

New brake hoses would not be a bad idea also.

When still available, stick with OEM parts.

Disassemble the master cylinder and the caliper before you buy any parts, make sure they are in good condition and rebuildable.

Master Cyl. rebuild kit is item 20 22 in the illustration:

Rear Master Cylinder Illustration

Piston and seals for caliper, if the piston is good, just replace the seals.

Caliper Illustration
Fixed for you, #20 is the complete master cylinder, #22 is the rebuild kit.


All though $99 is not bad for a complete master cylinder.
 
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