Stabilizer Link - Rear - '07 +
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,256
Likes: 522
From: USA
Stabilizer Link - Rear - '07 +
Found a loose bolt, clutch side for the rear Stabilizer Link - Rear on my 2007 1200N.
This bolt retains the stabilizer, plus has a ground wire and a spacer (only one spacer on clutch side of the link)
Assemble order... bolt, ground wire, link, spacer.
All torque specs are in the service manual, and for this job required research in 3 sections.
Well, not the easiest to access this bolt on my California smogged XL1200.
Remove charcoal canister (I used a screwdriver to pry up the release tabs - hoses can remain in place - note the routing), remove hex head bolts retaining rear master cylinder to char can bracket (hoses/ lines can remain in place), remove torx bolts retaining char can brkt.
Now you can access the stab link.
FWIW:
I'm not sure how long it has been loose, perhaps years, because of witness marks on the char can bracket.
The bracket prevented the bolt from falling to the ground.
(How did I find the loose bolt? Pure luck. Cleaning and looking around the bike. It must have rattled, which I never heard.)
I had difficulty tightening the bolt.
Perhaps:
OEM bolt is 1mm too short, OEM spacer is 1mm too thick, or the bolt looseness and its rattling destroyed the first few threads of its bore hole (I did use a tap and die to check threads) (Also without the spacer the bolt inserted and torqued correctly).
My "cure":
A thinner spacer.
Thanks for reading, and LOL I am envious of all my co-members with bike lifts and good garage lighting
This bolt retains the stabilizer, plus has a ground wire and a spacer (only one spacer on clutch side of the link)
Assemble order... bolt, ground wire, link, spacer.
All torque specs are in the service manual, and for this job required research in 3 sections.
Well, not the easiest to access this bolt on my California smogged XL1200.
Remove charcoal canister (I used a screwdriver to pry up the release tabs - hoses can remain in place - note the routing), remove hex head bolts retaining rear master cylinder to char can bracket (hoses/ lines can remain in place), remove torx bolts retaining char can brkt.
Now you can access the stab link.
FWIW:
I'm not sure how long it has been loose, perhaps years, because of witness marks on the char can bracket.
The bracket prevented the bolt from falling to the ground.
(How did I find the loose bolt? Pure luck. Cleaning and looking around the bike. It must have rattled, which I never heard.)
I had difficulty tightening the bolt.
Perhaps:
OEM bolt is 1mm too short, OEM spacer is 1mm too thick, or the bolt looseness and its rattling destroyed the first few threads of its bore hole (I did use a tap and die to check threads) (Also without the spacer the bolt inserted and torqued correctly).
My "cure":
A thinner spacer.
Thanks for reading, and LOL I am envious of all my co-members with bike lifts and good garage lighting
Last edited by Kenny94945; Mar 9, 2025 at 07:53 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 607
Likes: 243
From: Arizona
Found a loose bolt, clutch side for the rear Stabilizer Link - Rear on my 2007 1200N.
This bolt retains the stabilizer, plus has a ground wire and a spacer (only one spacer on clutch side of the link)
Assemble order... bolt, ground wire, link, spacer.
All torque specs are in the service manual, and for this job required research in 3 sections.
Well, not the easiest to access this bolt on my California smogged XL1200.
Remove charcoal canister (I used a screwdriver to pry up the release tabs - hoses can remain in place - note the routing), remove hex head bolts retaining rear master cylinder to char can bracket (hoses/ lines can remain in place), remove torx bolts retaining char can brkt.
Now you can access the stab link.
FWIW:
I'm not sure how long it has been loose, perhaps years, because of witness marks on the char can bracket.
The bracket prevented the bolt from falling to the ground.
(How did I find the loose bolt? Pure luck. Cleaning and looking around the bike. It must have rattled, which I never heard.)
I had difficulty tightening the bolt.
Perhaps:
OEM bolt is 1mm too short, OEM spacer is 1mm too thick, or the bolt looseness and its rattling destroyed the first few threads of its bore hole (I did use a tap and die to check threads) (Also without the spacer the bolt inserted and torqued correctly).
My "cure":
A thinner spacer.
Thanks for reading, and LOL I am envious of all my co-members with bike lifts and good garage lighting
This bolt retains the stabilizer, plus has a ground wire and a spacer (only one spacer on clutch side of the link)
Assemble order... bolt, ground wire, link, spacer.
All torque specs are in the service manual, and for this job required research in 3 sections.
Well, not the easiest to access this bolt on my California smogged XL1200.
Remove charcoal canister (I used a screwdriver to pry up the release tabs - hoses can remain in place - note the routing), remove hex head bolts retaining rear master cylinder to char can bracket (hoses/ lines can remain in place), remove torx bolts retaining char can brkt.
Now you can access the stab link.
FWIW:
I'm not sure how long it has been loose, perhaps years, because of witness marks on the char can bracket.
The bracket prevented the bolt from falling to the ground.
(How did I find the loose bolt? Pure luck. Cleaning and looking around the bike. It must have rattled, which I never heard.)
I had difficulty tightening the bolt.
Perhaps:
OEM bolt is 1mm too short, OEM spacer is 1mm too thick, or the bolt looseness and its rattling destroyed the first few threads of its bore hole (I did use a tap and die to check threads) (Also without the spacer the bolt inserted and torqued correctly).
My "cure":
A thinner spacer.
Thanks for reading, and LOL I am envious of all my co-members with bike lifts and good garage lighting
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,994
Likes: 2,081
From: Newport,TN area
Can you get a picture of this area ? I guess I'm having a senior moment
and just wondering if you are talking about the rear motor mount ?
I'm just not following what you are referring to as "rear stabilizer link".
Thanks!
T.
and just wondering if you are talking about the rear motor mount ?
I'm just not following what you are referring to as "rear stabilizer link".
Thanks!
T.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 607
Likes: 243
From: Arizona
The arm/link has had one update # and the ground strap 2 updated #s but the number for the spacer and screws has remained the same.
The screw is listed as 4180 SCREW 3/8-16 X 1-1/2 TORX BUTTON HD.
The screw is listed as 4180 SCREW 3/8-16 X 1-1/2 TORX BUTTON HD.
Last edited by snatchcat; Mar 10, 2025 at 11:06 AM.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,256
Likes: 522
From: USA
Wknds... post 3
Genuine Harley-Davidson OEM Service Parts | Harley-Davidson USA
If this link works, the link is part # 8.
Behind the mud guard, just above the swing arm, behind the bracket for the rear master cylinder one could say, at rear of the engine case.
Difficult to photograph without disassembly.
Genuine Harley-Davidson OEM Service Parts | Harley-Davidson USA
If this link works, the link is part # 8.
Behind the mud guard, just above the swing arm, behind the bracket for the rear master cylinder one could say, at rear of the engine case.
Difficult to photograph without disassembly.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 607
Likes: 243
From: Arizona
Wknds... post 3
Genuine Harley-Davidson OEM Service Parts | Harley-Davidson USA
If this link works, the link is part # 8.
Behind the mud guard, just above the swing arm, behind the bracket for the rear master cylinder one could say, at rear of the engine case.
Difficult to photograph without disassembly.
Genuine Harley-Davidson OEM Service Parts | Harley-Davidson USA
If this link works, the link is part # 8.
Behind the mud guard, just above the swing arm, behind the bracket for the rear master cylinder one could say, at rear of the engine case.
Difficult to photograph without disassembly.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,994
Likes: 2,081
From: Newport,TN area
Ah, ok. Thanks! I think for some of the newer models, HD switched
from two swingarm bolts to a single solid "through-bolt" type setup - so I
was a bit confused about what you were referring to...
Sorry - "my bad" as the newer gen says....
T.
from two swingarm bolts to a single solid "through-bolt" type setup - so I
was a bit confused about what you were referring to...
Sorry - "my bad" as the newer gen says....
T.
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Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 607
Likes: 243
From: Arizona
Just for the heck of it ran a screw up that hole on two other motors to see how deep it is. Turns out 0.7 inch till it bottoms out.
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