clutch - adjust, oil, or replace
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Georgia
clutch - adjust, oil, or replace
Reciently got a 77 sportster from a buddy that got a Big Dog and when I mentioned that the cluch wasn't fully disenguaging and wanted to pull slightly at red lights, etc, he thought it was low on oil - for him full means level with the clutch adjustment access hole which is contrary to info I have been able to find here at HDF so far. Also suggested it might need to be adjusted. I did an adjustment and results are the same so I plan to try draining oil and refilling with precedure suggested in other posts.
My confusion is with the adjustment procedure in the Chilton manual. After taking out the slack in the cable, it says to turn the adjusting screw untill it becomes more difficult to turn and continue in same direction for another 2 turns in the same direction to be sure that the cluch is DIS-enguaged. Then more steps for cable tension. Then adjust screw in back till it becomes easy to turn and continue in same direction for another 1/4 - 1/2 turn (for my year bike). What I get from this is that Tension = Cluch Disenguaged and that by following the directions I still have 1/4 - 1/2 a turn to go when I pull in the cluch lever before it totally disenguages. I'm now back where I started and I don't quite follow the logic of the manual. Is it correct or is there a typo?
Is there a way to check for cable stretch to know if I need to replace as mentioned in other posts?
Pyro
My confusion is with the adjustment procedure in the Chilton manual. After taking out the slack in the cable, it says to turn the adjusting screw untill it becomes more difficult to turn and continue in same direction for another 2 turns in the same direction to be sure that the cluch is DIS-enguaged. Then more steps for cable tension. Then adjust screw in back till it becomes easy to turn and continue in same direction for another 1/4 - 1/2 turn (for my year bike). What I get from this is that Tension = Cluch Disenguaged and that by following the directions I still have 1/4 - 1/2 a turn to go when I pull in the cluch lever before it totally disenguages. I'm now back where I started and I don't quite follow the logic of the manual. Is it correct or is there a typo?
Is there a way to check for cable stretch to know if I need to replace as mentioned in other posts?
Pyro
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Joined: Oct 2005
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RE: clutch - adjust, oil, or replace
If your clutch isn't disengaging properly, it's likely you have too MUCH oil rather than too little. I just changed my clutch discs last spring because mine wasn't disengaging properly, and I found WAY too much oil in the primary. (My fault on the previous primary oil change). I've heard that worn out clutches don't disengage properly either. Pretty sure the original discs were still there, but they didn't look all that different from the new ones. SO, I don't for sure WHAT was causing my problem. But I DO know the new clutches plus the right amount of oil made all the difference in the world!
One thing that AIN'T your problem is the clutch cable. Iit WON'T act 'elastic', no matter how stretched it is. If the slack is adjusted out correctly, then it will release the clutch exactly the same as a new cable.
OH--and to adjust the clutch: make sure there's some slack in the cable. Then loosen the adjuster lock nut, turn in the center bolt until it just makes contact. Tighten the lock nut, and take the slack out of the cable. I swear the guys who write instruction manuals just make up stupid crap as they go...[:'(]
One thing that AIN'T your problem is the clutch cable. Iit WON'T act 'elastic', no matter how stretched it is. If the slack is adjusted out correctly, then it will release the clutch exactly the same as a new cable.
OH--and to adjust the clutch: make sure there's some slack in the cable. Then loosen the adjuster lock nut, turn in the center bolt until it just makes contact. Tighten the lock nut, and take the slack out of the cable. I swear the guys who write instruction manuals just make up stupid crap as they go...[:'(]
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: clutch - adjust, oil, or replace
First, the correct oil level - if it's at the adjusting hole, it's way high. Locate the oil level plug screw at the bottom edge of the primary cover. It's the "odd man out" of the cover screws. With the bike level, remove the screw and let the oil drain. When it stops coming out, it's at the right level. Try this first; if it quits "tugging", you're done.
For clutch control adjustment, here's what the MoCo manual sez, paraphrased: Loosen cable adjuster locknut, turn cable adjuster into primary until you have a lot of lever freeplay. Remove access plug. Loosen clutch adjuster locknut. Turn screw in (clockwise) until it gets hard to turn, continue 2 more full turns. Turn cable adjuster back out of primary and just remove all lever freeplay, but make sure there is no tension on cable. Tighten cable adjuster locknut. Back off (counter clockwise) clutch adjusting screw just until screw turns easy. Check lever freeplay & turn screw back in (CW) until freeplay is just gone. Back adjuster screw back out 1/4 - 1/2 turn, tighten locknut.
If it still wants to "tug" at lights, etc. you might check the clutch spring tension. If after adjusting the spring tension, it still tugs, the plates might be contaminated. Or if you when you adjust the spring tension, the distance between the outer drive plate and the outside edge of the releasing disc is too little, the plates are too worn, and need replaced. If the distance hits about 5/16", the clutch won't release properly.
For clutch control adjustment, here's what the MoCo manual sez, paraphrased: Loosen cable adjuster locknut, turn cable adjuster into primary until you have a lot of lever freeplay. Remove access plug. Loosen clutch adjuster locknut. Turn screw in (clockwise) until it gets hard to turn, continue 2 more full turns. Turn cable adjuster back out of primary and just remove all lever freeplay, but make sure there is no tension on cable. Tighten cable adjuster locknut. Back off (counter clockwise) clutch adjusting screw just until screw turns easy. Check lever freeplay & turn screw back in (CW) until freeplay is just gone. Back adjuster screw back out 1/4 - 1/2 turn, tighten locknut.
If it still wants to "tug" at lights, etc. you might check the clutch spring tension. If after adjusting the spring tension, it still tugs, the plates might be contaminated. Or if you when you adjust the spring tension, the distance between the outer drive plate and the outside edge of the releasing disc is too little, the plates are too worn, and need replaced. If the distance hits about 5/16", the clutch won't release properly.
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