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I started reading the walk threw. Looks like it will help alot. But I just don't know what jets to use for like a forcewinder or what ever cleaner I end up getting. Once you install it how do you know which exact ones to use? Or do you put what think is close, try it and then adjust from there? Also on a scale of 1 - 10 how hard is this to do? I have 0 carb exp. but do have some mechanical knowledge.
Oh, and I know I am thread jacking but it seemed like you were done with it anyway..j/k
I didn't get threw the whole read last night so maybe it say something about choosing jets. I did see where it listed the jets for the SE stuff. Are those pretty accurate for all intake set ups?
It also will probably make more sence once i start tearing into the bike.
Yes, CFM. I wouldn't get too caught up in the numbers though because they do not specific how they were measured. Usually, you should be told something like in 12 inches of water. Furthermore, more CFM doesn't necessarily mean better. The time it becomes irrelevant is when you air filter flows more than the carb is able to flow. Buying a 400 CFM air filter won't help anything if you only have a 300 CFM carb.
More flow numbers:
The stock Harley CV40 carburetor flows about 185 CFM (cubic feet per minute) when flow is measured at a pressure difference of 12 inches of water. All the Mikuni HSR series flow considerably more:
You seem to want to run an air-cleaner that looks different than the ham cam, so this is mostly for other people reading this. If you have an old style SE air filter that came with a K&N filter but want more flow, then you can fit a 3" K&N filter for ~$40. I think stock the SE came with a 2" K&N, which is more than enough and should feed an engine all the way up to 100 rwhp.
Probably the easiest way to go about this, and if I had it to do again, I would have just bought the DynoJet rebuild kit. It's been awhile but I think I went with the pretty standard #45/#170 combo. My bike has great throttle response, no backfires/carb farts. I have a hi-flow AC and Exhaust system with no crossover pipe. Carb work on a scale of 1-10 I would say would be a solid 8 if you are new to working on engines. If you have some mechanical experience then I would rank just about everything shy of internal engine work as a 3-4. I haven't run up agains anything I couldn't handle yet. Most folks say that I have an above average learning ability so I am not sure that I am a good gauge.
If it were me, I would do it myself. But thats me. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Yes, CFM. I wouldn't get too caught up in the numbers though because they do not specific how they were measured. Usually, you should be told something like in 12 inches of water. Furthermore, more CFM doesn't necessarily mean better. The time it becomes irrelevant is when you air filter flows more than the carb is able to flow. Buying a 400 CFM air filter won't help anything if you only have a 300 CFM carb.
More flow numbers:
The stock Harley CV40 carburetor flows about 185 CFM (cubic feet per minute) when flow is measured at a pressure difference of 12 inches of water. All the Mikuni HSR series flow considerably more:
You seem to want to run an air-cleaner that looks different than the ham cam, so this is mostly for other people reading this. If you have an old style SE air filter that came with a K&N filter but want more flow, then you can fit a 3" K&N filter for ~$40. I think stock the SE came with a 2" K&N, which is more than enough and should feed an engine all the way up to 100 rwhp.
More great info there. I have the crappy non-oilable filter in mine. Yeah for me, I am probably at my performance peak without a carb change so it does get down to how it looks.
Don't you think though if the carb flow is capable of 185 CFM and I am under the impression that it is weighted at 1 atmosphere of pressure that it is possible to force more air through the carb? I am not a physics major but I do dabble a bit. I wonder what the numbers are based on... Maybe it's max pressure that the carb is capable of? And to sustain that pressure an AC thatt is capable of higher CFM could keep a steadier supply of air flow to the carb?
It probably all comes back to me trying different combos until I am happy. LOL. I do love to crunch the numbers though.
The 3" air filter idea works, that is what I built for my bike I found it only recuired a little more work to build the whole thing from scratch and other than the cost of the K&N air filter was quite cheap.
The pictures show the set up with the stock ham can and the second picture shows the custom double wide ham can I built to cover the whole filter.
This thing will flow so air and there is enough room inside for a real velocity stack.
Don't you think though if the carb flow is capable of 185 CFM and I am under the impression that it is weighted at 1 atmosphere of pressure that it is possible to force more air through the carb? I am not a physics major but I do dabble a bit.
There is more to this than just flow. Velocity is also a big factor and other things such as the length of the intake. That's getting into the more complex aspects though. For example, the snorkel on a velocity stack adds power vs. just running the carb exposed. Here is a dyno chart from NRHS. Notice that running the carb just open produces less power than when running it with a velocity stack.
Here is another example using a forcewinder. The length, shape, etc of the forewinder is tuned so that is actually produces more power at a certain rpm range than just running without an air filter and the carb 100% open.
Also, you can't compare the CFM I gave for the air filters with the ones I gave for the carbs. The carbs were done in 12 inches of water. Nobody specified what the air filters were done in. You can't compare things measured differently. The same flow will air filter will produce lower or higher readings depending how you measure it (10 in, 12 in, 20 in).
Gotcha. 12 in of water must be the key for nominal usage then. I also understand the differences between the filters and carbs. Interesting that the Forcewinder balances the curve and pushes the bigger gains from 80mph to 100mph..To me when I look at this, I see that the FW is most efficient atmoving air from 50mph to 57mph and then again from 80-100mph. It must be aPITA getting air to behave through the entire power band. Silly turbulence! Would be great to see more of a comparison between different models of AC units.
The 3" air filter idea works, that is what I built for my bike I found it only recuired a little more work to build the whole thing from scratch and other than the cost of the K&N air filter was quite cheap.
The pictures show the set up with the stock ham can and the second picture shows the custom double wide ham can I built to cover the whole filter.
This thing will flow so air and there is enough room inside for a real velocity stack.
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