handlebar swap question
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Redmond/Ellensburg, WA
handlebar swap question
Hey guys, been a while since i posted anything. Haven't really done anything difficult that I needed help with since I got my bike, but alas, I finally have some extra money while in school.
I ordered up a set of 2000 Hugger handlebars that I was going to swap on. Read that they should fit fine with cable lenght, might need to bend/replace the brake line. But my real question is removing the grips/throttle. I read people suggest to 'jam' the brake level, but I'm a little lost on what exactly they mean. Can anyone give me some more ensight? Doing this without a FSM, but it seems straightforward enough. Any tips or tricks I should know?
Thanks guys.
Its on a 07 883 in case it makes a difference. I'll get a picture up one of these days....maybe when my few toys are on.
I ordered up a set of 2000 Hugger handlebars that I was going to swap on. Read that they should fit fine with cable lenght, might need to bend/replace the brake line. But my real question is removing the grips/throttle. I read people suggest to 'jam' the brake level, but I'm a little lost on what exactly they mean. Can anyone give me some more ensight? Doing this without a FSM, but it seems straightforward enough. Any tips or tricks I should know?
Thanks guys.
Its on a 07 883 in case it makes a difference. I'll get a picture up one of these days....maybe when my few toys are on.
Last edited by Ares; Jan 30, 2009 at 09:48 PM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: NS
Brake lever
Hey Cam,
I think what your talking about is to jam the brake lever prior to removing the Master cylinder assembly for the front brake. All you need to do apply the front brakes by pulling on the lever, lock at the front of the brake lever were it pivots away from the master cylinder. a gap will open between the two, insert a piece of cardbourd folded to 5/32" and let the lever go. What you are doing is letting the the brake stoplight activation switch out and avoiding any damage to the piston or rubber boot for the switch. leave the card board spacer in until you have everything all reinstalled and back together.
If you have never taken the throttle apart before, be carefull when you remove the cables from the throttle grip control (under the right side grip) watch that you don't lose either of the two brass ferrule's which hold you cables in place in the throttle grip control.
Good luck, hope you enjoy the new bars.
Piglet1999
I think what your talking about is to jam the brake lever prior to removing the Master cylinder assembly for the front brake. All you need to do apply the front brakes by pulling on the lever, lock at the front of the brake lever were it pivots away from the master cylinder. a gap will open between the two, insert a piece of cardbourd folded to 5/32" and let the lever go. What you are doing is letting the the brake stoplight activation switch out and avoiding any damage to the piston or rubber boot for the switch. leave the card board spacer in until you have everything all reinstalled and back together.
If you have never taken the throttle apart before, be carefull when you remove the cables from the throttle grip control (under the right side grip) watch that you don't lose either of the two brass ferrule's which hold you cables in place in the throttle grip control.
Good luck, hope you enjoy the new bars.
Piglet1999
Hey guys, been a while since i posted anything. Haven't really done anything difficult that I needed help with since I got my bike, but alas, I finally have some extra money while in school.
I ordered up a set of 2000 Hugger handlebars that I was going to swap on. Read that they should fit fine with cable lenght, might need to bend/replace the brake line. But my real question is removing the grips/throttle. I read people suggest to 'jam' the brake level, but I'm a little lost on what exactly they mean. Can anyone give me some more ensight? Doing this without a FSM, but it seems straightforward enough. Any tips or tricks I should know?
Thanks guys.
Its on a 07 883 in case it makes a difference. I'll get a picture up one of these days....maybe when my few toys are on.
I ordered up a set of 2000 Hugger handlebars that I was going to swap on. Read that they should fit fine with cable lenght, might need to bend/replace the brake line. But my real question is removing the grips/throttle. I read people suggest to 'jam' the brake level, but I'm a little lost on what exactly they mean. Can anyone give me some more ensight? Doing this without a FSM, but it seems straightforward enough. Any tips or tricks I should know?
Thanks guys.
Its on a 07 883 in case it makes a difference. I'll get a picture up one of these days....maybe when my few toys are on.
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Redmond/Ellensburg, WA
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: No. Alabama
Hey Cam,
I think what your talking about is to jam the brake lever prior to removing the Master cylinder assembly for the front brake. All you need to do apply the front brakes by pulling on the lever, lock at the front of the brake lever were it pivots away from the master cylinder. a gap will open between the two, insert a piece of cardbourd folded to 5/32" and let the lever go. What you are doing is letting the the brake stoplight activation switch out and avoiding any damage to the piston or rubber boot for the switch. leave the card board spacer in until you have everything all reinstalled and back together.
If you have never taken the throttle apart before, be carefull when you remove the cables from the throttle grip control (under the right side grip) watch that you don't lose either of the two brass ferrule's which hold you cables in place in the throttle grip control.
Good luck, hope you enjoy the new bars.
Piglet1999
I think what your talking about is to jam the brake lever prior to removing the Master cylinder assembly for the front brake. All you need to do apply the front brakes by pulling on the lever, lock at the front of the brake lever were it pivots away from the master cylinder. a gap will open between the two, insert a piece of cardbourd folded to 5/32" and let the lever go. What you are doing is letting the the brake stoplight activation switch out and avoiding any damage to the piston or rubber boot for the switch. leave the card board spacer in until you have everything all reinstalled and back together.
If you have never taken the throttle apart before, be carefull when you remove the cables from the throttle grip control (under the right side grip) watch that you don't lose either of the two brass ferrule's which hold you cables in place in the throttle grip control.
Good luck, hope you enjoy the new bars.
Piglet1999
BTW, +1 on not losing the brass ferrules. I spent several minutes looking for one of those after it fell.
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Redmond/Ellensburg, WA
I just put a set of Wide Glide bars on the wife's 07 1200L. I didn't do the brake lever lock described above and I guess I got lucky as I see no problems so far there. However, I did have to replace the brake line with a Russell braided line. Now the front brake lever travels all the way back to the grip. The brakes work and are not spongy like they would be with air in the line but I don't think they apply enough force to lock the front tire down. I'm wondering if the braided line is balooning enough to cause this. I bled them by pulling vacuum on the caliper and I'm sure there's no air in the line. Anybody got any ideas?
BTW, +1 on not losing the brass ferrules. I spent several minutes looking for one of those after it fell.
BTW, +1 on not losing the brass ferrules. I spent several minutes looking for one of those after it fell.
unfortunitly the only thing I could think of would be to bleed them agian. Might be an air bubble caught somewhere in the system
My handlebars seem like they are taking years to get here. I ended up ordering up some new grips too so I can just slice my old ones off.
Trending Topics
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: No. Alabama
Hmmm, lengthening the line shouldn't cause any pressure changes. I wouldn't think the line would balloon either, even standard rubber lines are rated to extremely high psi. With how short the lines are I don't see that being an issue...
unfortunitly the only thing I could think of would be to bleed them agian. Might be an air bubble caught somewhere in the system
My handlebars seem like they are taking years to get here. I ended up ordering up some new grips too so I can just slice my old ones off.
unfortunitly the only thing I could think of would be to bleed them agian. Might be an air bubble caught somewhere in the system
My handlebars seem like they are taking years to get here. I ended up ordering up some new grips too so I can just slice my old ones off.
Last edited by hamnhog; Feb 2, 2009 at 11:31 AM. Reason: clarification
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
6 Weirdest Harley-Davidsons Ever Sold to the Public
Verdad Gallardo
7 Times Harley-Davidson Chucked Tradition Out the Window
Verdad Gallardo
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 67
Likes: 1
From: Olean, NY
I just switched out my stock Nightster bars for a set of drags i painted black. I didn't unhook anything, I just took off each end swapped the bars and tightened them back up. The brake line had to turned a little but I never unhooked any of the cables at all.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
xxDUFFY99xx
Sportster Models
16
Jun 10, 2012 02:04 AM
