Problem with the Sportster
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 43
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From: blah
Problem with the Sportster
Well, as some of you read, I just bought a 07 Sporster 1200C this week and actually went to pick it up today. It was just "one of those days" all around but I'll spare the gory details and hit the problem.
When I picked up the bike, the dealer told me that the battery had been run dead because the mechanic that put the bike in the truck (bike came from FL to ATL) left the key turned to accesory. So we boost the bike off...runs fine (pretty damn loud actually, stock pipes but I"m thinking they drilled the baffles out) and put it on the trialer. The guy tells me that the battery is brand new....interstate brand with a 6 month warrenty.
Fast forward a few hours of very stressful driving and I'm pulling up to my place. Before I even unstrap the bike I get on and try to start it since I need to drive it up a hill. Tries to turn over but just doesn't have the juice. I jump the bike off again and let it run for about 5 minutes or so, turn it off and immediatly try and start it again...nothing. It's even worse than before I jumped it. I put the bike in my uncle's shop and after many 4 letter words I get the battery strap off. At this point I hear something on the bike cycling. Key is off, not even in the bike, but I can here something towards the front of the engine cycling on and off. Its been a good 45 min since the bike was running, but I did try and start the bike a few min earlier. Is that normal? Something I should be concerned with? Reason the battery isn't taking a charge? Brought the battery to auto zone and they are going to trickle charge it over night, I'll try it again this weekend.
When I picked up the bike, the dealer told me that the battery had been run dead because the mechanic that put the bike in the truck (bike came from FL to ATL) left the key turned to accesory. So we boost the bike off...runs fine (pretty damn loud actually, stock pipes but I"m thinking they drilled the baffles out) and put it on the trialer. The guy tells me that the battery is brand new....interstate brand with a 6 month warrenty.
Fast forward a few hours of very stressful driving and I'm pulling up to my place. Before I even unstrap the bike I get on and try to start it since I need to drive it up a hill. Tries to turn over but just doesn't have the juice. I jump the bike off again and let it run for about 5 minutes or so, turn it off and immediatly try and start it again...nothing. It's even worse than before I jumped it. I put the bike in my uncle's shop and after many 4 letter words I get the battery strap off. At this point I hear something on the bike cycling. Key is off, not even in the bike, but I can here something towards the front of the engine cycling on and off. Its been a good 45 min since the bike was running, but I did try and start the bike a few min earlier. Is that normal? Something I should be concerned with? Reason the battery isn't taking a charge? Brought the battery to auto zone and they are going to trickle charge it over night, I'll try it again this weekend.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Maybe it is the fuel pump that is cycling off and on. I know there have been some bikes out there where the fuel pump relay has gone out and the fuel pump cycles on its own. Maybe there is a bad electrical connection somewhere? Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 43
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From: blah
So even if the key isn't in the bike, if the start button is flipped to on something on the bike will still cycle? Or draw power? However you want to put it. That very well might be what happened.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I'm pretty sure that if the key is in the "OFF" position, just leaving the switch in the "Run" position will not cause a power draw. I have accidentally turned my bike off with the key only and left it overnight or for a few days and never had a problem re-starting. In this situation, as soon as the key is turned on the fuel pump cycles.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 1
From: manhattan beach
1. you own a bike- you need a trickle charger (i ride my bike every day, but i still own one!)
2. guessing its a pia to take the bike back to the dealer? they really should deal with this- prob should give you a new battery or fix whatever the problem is imo
2. guessing its a pia to take the bike back to the dealer? they really should deal with this- prob should give you a new battery or fix whatever the problem is imo
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,067
Likes: 394
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
If you have a big round thing attached to your key you have the factory alarm.
On alarm equipped bikes if you put them in a trailer and tow it the signals flash constantly until the battery goes dead, you have to dis-arm the alarm before towing. That's probably what ran the first battery dead coming from FL to ATL, and when you towed it home you ran the new battery dead.
Once these little bike batteries go dead they are almost always toast, the new one properly charged should do the trick.
PS: it doesn't matter what position the run/kill switch is in the key/ignition switch overrides it.
On alarm equipped bikes if you put them in a trailer and tow it the signals flash constantly until the battery goes dead, you have to dis-arm the alarm before towing. That's probably what ran the first battery dead coming from FL to ATL, and when you towed it home you ran the new battery dead.
Once these little bike batteries go dead they are almost always toast, the new one properly charged should do the trick.
PS: it doesn't matter what position the run/kill switch is in the key/ignition switch overrides it.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Elyria, OH
Someone else on here had that problem a few months ago... something was wrong and cycling the fuel pump. I would pull fuses and relays one at a time when it is making that noise and that will give you a direction to look. I know a few people have had problems with corrosion in the fusebox/relay area.
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 772
Likes: 4
From: ohio
^^^^ +1...While your problem seems battery related, I would still check all the fuses and both relays while the battery is out. Take each one out and put di-electric grease on all the terminals. If there is 'green death' on any of the terminals, clean it with a brush and some contact cleaner and you should be ok. Big problem on these years is water running down the frame and onto the fuse panel. I just went through this-this past summer.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,551
Likes: 6
You bought a lemon. It's got "issues". Now you know why it was for sale.
Hey, it ain't nothing you can't fix, but stop wasting your time worrying about trickle chargers and leaving the key on and all the hokey crap they sold you along with the bike.
Jerk the left battery cover off and then yank out every fuse and examine every connection. Like the guy said, wire brush it all and then apply liberal ammounts of dielectric grease to everything that even looks electrical.
The odds are the bike was submerged in brackish water and is exhibiting ills from it. You can recover cheap enuff if you have the skills and patience.
Hopefully, you didn't pay book value and know how to twist wrenches.
Hey, it ain't nothing you can't fix, but stop wasting your time worrying about trickle chargers and leaving the key on and all the hokey crap they sold you along with the bike.
Jerk the left battery cover off and then yank out every fuse and examine every connection. Like the guy said, wire brush it all and then apply liberal ammounts of dielectric grease to everything that even looks electrical.
The odds are the bike was submerged in brackish water and is exhibiting ills from it. You can recover cheap enuff if you have the skills and patience.
Hopefully, you didn't pay book value and know how to twist wrenches.