Spring Install
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 364
Likes: 31
From: Dayton, Ohio
Spring Install
Well my new Progressive springs and 412 shocks came today, I know I saw on here somewhere the procedure for installing the springs but after going through all the pages I can't seem to find it. I also received a service manual on a flashdrive to help me in this mod. since I wanted to know the torque specs and such and since I thought I remember someone suggesting replacing the fork fluid and I wanted to know the procedure for that, however it was apparently copy in black and white and the images are horrible. Im very **** when it comes to something as particular as the handling of my motorcycle so before I tear into it I was hoping someone might help me with the exact procedure for changing out the springs and draining the fork fluid. Thanks.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Houston, Texas
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 364
Likes: 31
From: Dayton, Ohio
Thanks alot Spur that should be very helpful.
Does anyone know how much the spacer should extend out the top for the pre load? And distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the fluid level?
Thanks for all the help guys!
Does anyone know how much the spacer should extend out the top for the pre load? And distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the fluid level?
Thanks for all the help guys!
Road Captain
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 606
Likes: 2
How far (if at all) the spacer extends depends on the bike and how you want it set up.
You can add or subtract spacers/washers to set the fork sag.
Oil depends on the ride you want, 5 weight is soft, nice plush ride, more brake dive, 10 is firmer, 15 even more so.
15 works well with the stock springs.
As far as the oil level, the instructions list the oil level, but I just measured the oil I drained out and put in the same amount plus 5cc's.
I think on my bike it was 325cc per fork.
I remove the handlebars (put towls on tank and fender), jack up the bike (front), loosen top fork clamps, remove one cap (its under a bit of tension), remove the drain screw (vice grips might be needed, an impact screwdriver with the correct bit works best), let the oil drain into a measuring pitcher, I DON'T pump the forks as oil gets all over the place.
Remove stock spring, fit new spring and spacers, replace drain screw, add oil, put cap back on.
I want more ground clearance, so added 3 washers and pushed the forks down in their mounts as far as I could.
My forks sag about 3/4 an inch with the bike on the wheels, down from 2 inches stock.
After working on bikes for over 30 years, I only use a torque wrench on things like head bolts and crankshaft stuff.
I have 10 weight oil in my forks now (bel ray), and it seems fine with the progressive springs.
I would guess 5 weight would be plush luxo type ride, 10 weight in between, and 15 weight for hard sport riding.
As it is, I have no problem at all with how the forks are working, bumps are absorbed as well as the limited travel will allow, they dont bottom with a loud painful crash, but they seem to use all the travel on huge bumps.
Brett
You can add or subtract spacers/washers to set the fork sag.
Oil depends on the ride you want, 5 weight is soft, nice plush ride, more brake dive, 10 is firmer, 15 even more so.
15 works well with the stock springs.
As far as the oil level, the instructions list the oil level, but I just measured the oil I drained out and put in the same amount plus 5cc's.
I think on my bike it was 325cc per fork.
I remove the handlebars (put towls on tank and fender), jack up the bike (front), loosen top fork clamps, remove one cap (its under a bit of tension), remove the drain screw (vice grips might be needed, an impact screwdriver with the correct bit works best), let the oil drain into a measuring pitcher, I DON'T pump the forks as oil gets all over the place.
Remove stock spring, fit new spring and spacers, replace drain screw, add oil, put cap back on.
I want more ground clearance, so added 3 washers and pushed the forks down in their mounts as far as I could.
My forks sag about 3/4 an inch with the bike on the wheels, down from 2 inches stock.
After working on bikes for over 30 years, I only use a torque wrench on things like head bolts and crankshaft stuff.
I have 10 weight oil in my forks now (bel ray), and it seems fine with the progressive springs.
I would guess 5 weight would be plush luxo type ride, 10 weight in between, and 15 weight for hard sport riding.
As it is, I have no problem at all with how the forks are working, bumps are absorbed as well as the limited travel will allow, they dont bottom with a loud painful crash, but they seem to use all the travel on huge bumps.
Brett
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 364
Likes: 31
From: Dayton, Ohio
Thanks Brett and Sporty, yea I opened them and looked at the instructions however it does not list for the 2010 Iron, so I just wanted to see what you guys who I know have already done this experienced, it just makes me alittle nervous wrenching on a brand new bike before I know exactly want to expect plus the instructions said that these springs would displace more fluid than stock, so the last thing I want to do is blow out the seals.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Manassas, VA
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