Blacking out your engine, casing
#11
#12
If you sprayed with your screws on, and after the paint dries up, would it actually stick? And when you try to unscrew the screws maybe after a month or so, the pain might tear off when you unscrewing it?
#14
Doc is right, take your time. I bought the paint for black engines from Harley. It was a little more expensive. Do a couple coats, Depending on which kind you get, it can come out with a gray tint (still better than stock in my opinion). What i did was take those little plastic thingies that go on the end of a shelf for a closet organizer and those fit perfectly over the screws. I think the little bit of gray makes the black pop even more. Ill try to post pics later
#15
I used VHT paint from Advance auto Parts. Works well, however any flat black will hold the dirt and even stain. It is very hard to clean and keep clean. I suggest using a semi gloss.
As for painting chrome??? it is hard to do. you will need to sand it to take the gloss off it, scuff it real good. I powder coat over chrome but I sand blast it first to pit it.
preparation is the key to a good paint job.
As for painting chrome??? it is hard to do. you will need to sand it to take the gloss off it, scuff it real good. I powder coat over chrome but I sand blast it first to pit it.
preparation is the key to a good paint job.
#16
I had every "cover" that would come off PC'd Black. Mostly Flat black, but did my head covers in gloss black. While eveyrthing was off, sprayed the fins and primary casing with High Temp paint. I think the primary, derby and timing covers can get a lot of rub wear from boots and stuff when riding and are probably better powder coated. Mine still looks great after 2 1/2 years
#18
#19
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vallejo, California
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yeah... the HD textured rattle can is good stuff.. and it is pretty forgiving.. you don't have to be a certified auto body painter to get it right.. .. an idea is to remove the sprocket cover and practice with that piece first...
#20