Certainteed,

Thanks for the tip. I was able to loosen the bolts on the cam cover and get it to move enough to help get the wires out. They were behind one of the oil lines and the oil line was not allowing the wires to move. I attached some heavy fishing line to the old wire before removing it in helping to get the new wires ran. It definitely helped to get the new wires run where they needed to be. I got the new stator installed and the cam cover tightened. Now I'm in the process of getting it all put back together. Hopefully I can get it finished up tomorrow night after work.

Earnie

 

Just as a follow up to all of this. I was able to get it all put back together and it is working perfectly. Using the fishing cord to run the wires for the new stator back in-place where the old ones came from worked out great. The large rubber connector of the stator does like to get hung up on things and in small places but I was able to get it to go where it needed to be. I used a 4" brass door hinge to lock the stator sprocket and clutch hub together as others on the forum have suggested. This worked really well. Hopefully the picture of it is attached. I also used it to tighten the nuts back up for the rotor and the clutch hub after applying some red locktite to the nuts.

I have also attached a picture of the old stator before I removed it and a picture of the new one installed. It's not a bad job to do but can be time consuming getting the old stator wires our and the new wires run where they belong. It still beats paying someone else to do it.

 

What did you use for supporting you bike while you were working on it?

I bought a motorcycle jack this spring, but there is too much crap hanging below the frame for the bike to sit level on the jack. I have not needed to do anything to the bike where I needed it off the ground, but it would have been handy a couple of times.

 

I've got a motorcycle/ATV lift that I bought at AutoZone. It's rated for 1500 pounds and has a built in lock to keep the jack from falling. It also has two bolts that can be screwed down to make contact with the floor for added stability. It also has two ratchet straps to strap the bike down to the lift to eliminate it from falling off if you remove a wheel or two. It helps a lot to get the bike up in the air so that I can sit on a stool with wheels to make working on it easier. Hope this helps.

 

Great photo of the installed stator, I will save that one.

 

I hope you don't have to replace the stator but if you do I hope the picture helps you.

 

Well, my Cycle Electric stator went out on Sunday afternoon on the way back home with my brother from the Lake of The Ozarks Bike Rally. Luckily I was passing through the town my brother-in-law lives in and he was at his shop. We used his truck and trailer to get my bike back home. Its 35 miles and I didn't think my battery would make it that far and I didn't want to be on the side of the road on a two lane road with no shoulders. We got it to my garage and checked the voltage at the battery with it running and it was 12.0 volts and didn't change with high RPM's. Then we checked the stator and it was only 2.5 VAC at 3000 RPM.

I talked with Cycle Electric on Tuesay since I put the stator on last September and it has a two year warranty. They said that I shouldn't be having any issues and to send it in to them to look at and determine if it could be repaired or if it needed to be completely replaced. I asked if I needed to provide a copy of the reciept and they said no because each stator is date coded and they can determine the age of it from the code. They said they will determine what needs to be done with it the day the get it and send the repaired stator or new replacement stator back to me by 2 day UPS.

I took it off on Tuesday night and both wires are nearly burnt into. See the picture of the wires. The smell from the primary oil was terrible. I sent it back to them on Wednesday by 2 day UPS and it should arrive by 10:30am Friday. I hope to hear from them some time tomorrow afternoon about what is going to be done and when to expect the repaired/new one to arrive.

I was very happy with the customer service on the phone and how they said this should not be happening. When I told them I was scheduled to leave next Thursday morning for BBB in Fayetteville, AR, they said they would get it to me as fast as they could so I can be back on the road again.

At this time I don't know if the regulator is bad or not. I'll find out as soon as I get the stator re-installed. I'm thinking about getting a new regulator from Cycle Electric anyway but don't want to spend the ~$130 for one if the stock regulator is still good.

I'll keep everyone updated as to how this turns out.

 

I strongly recommend switching to the CE regulator. The Harley regulator uses old "shunt" technology for regulation, and that means the stator is always running at 100% output, generating excess heat in the stator and and an unnecessary load on the motor.
The electronic CE regulator "unloads" the stator when full charging current isn't required, which means a cooler stator and less load on the motor.

Edit: Out of curiosity, how many miles were on this stator?

.

 

cHarley,

That makes sense and may be the reason why the stator wires are burnt. I think I'll go ahead and get the CE regulator and keep the stock one as a back up.

The CE stator has about 9000 miles on it.

Earnie

 

Like the OP, I replaced my stock stator with an Accel and left the stock voltage regulator on last October when it failed. Coincidentally, 9k miles later the Accel stator failed. This time I went with the CE stator and CE regulator. Hopefully it will be more than 9k miles before I have a problem again.