My DIY 1250 conversion thread: EFI version
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: victoria bc
I was really surprised at the amount of buildup for so few miles. I am looking forward to tuning the new engine with the smart tune feature of the SEPST. I am thinking of enrichening the closed loop right from the start, to help it stay cooler during the breakin. I thought I might change all my closed loop cells to 13.9 for a few hundred miles before starting the smart tune process.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
Mich, excellent post. I reckon a lot of us will be thinking of following in your footsteps! My only comment is that I would have disconnected the battery rather than removing the fuses. That darned thing is sitting there like a starved cobra waiting to strike!
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: victoria bc
I wondered if leaving the battery connected was a bad idea or not. Not being a mechanic, I wasn't sure of what might happen. I figured removing the fuses would do the trick as long as nothing touched the battery terminals. If someone could let me know what the possible problems might be of leaving the battery in, I would love to hear them and learn some more.
So Yesterday after talking to NRHS, I went downstairs and installed both of the heads using the same procedure that I used when checking the squish. The only difference this time was that I rotated the rear wheel to get each piston to the very bottom of it's stroke then I wiped all of the assembly lube and grease from the cylinder bore that was above the piston. I don't want a bunch of crap in the combustion chamber when I start it for the first time.
I think i will continue with the installation of the rockers without my HD manual, since I have found several different versions of the process online. I have all of the torque values and feel confident to continue. The only part of the process I am not sure of is what type of loctite to use on the rocker bolts. Should I be using red or blue? anyone that can chime in at this point would be appreciated.
So far, I have about 7 1/2 hours into this process.
So Yesterday after talking to NRHS, I went downstairs and installed both of the heads using the same procedure that I used when checking the squish. The only difference this time was that I rotated the rear wheel to get each piston to the very bottom of it's stroke then I wiped all of the assembly lube and grease from the cylinder bore that was above the piston. I don't want a bunch of crap in the combustion chamber when I start it for the first time.
I think i will continue with the installation of the rockers without my HD manual, since I have found several different versions of the process online. I have all of the torque values and feel confident to continue. The only part of the process I am not sure of is what type of loctite to use on the rocker bolts. Should I be using red or blue? anyone that can chime in at this point would be appreciated.
So far, I have about 7 1/2 hours into this process.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: victoria bc
In regards to the stock forward piston having a lot of carbon on it. I also noticed that a lot of oil leaked out of the sponge in the breather valve as well. I don't have enough knowledge to know if these two symptoms are connected.
Last edited by Mich; Feb 5, 2012 at 09:58 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
I wondered if leaving the battery connected was a bad idea or not. Not being a mechanic, I wasn't sure of what might happen. I figured removing the fuses would do the trick as long as nothing touched the battery terminals. If someone could let me know what the possible problems might be of leaving the battery in, I would love to hear them and learn some more.
Everything else you're doing is just fine!
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: victoria bc
Thanks grbrown! Everything seems to be going pretty well. I have decided to wait a few days this week and see if my HD service manual finally arrives, it has been sitting in customs canada for a week now. If it does not get released from customs soon I will probably proceed without it. MY new AC is with the service manual, so I cannot start the bike without it anyways.
I did some searching on the net and came up with blue loctite #243 as the answer to what I should use on my rocker bolts. Any feedback on this would be appreciated.
I figure that I have about 3-4 hours of assembly time left and hopefully I will be done and ready to start the bike.
In regards to my SEPST. I have modified the stage one map that I was going to use to start the bike and changed all of the closed loop cells to 14.0 . My thoughts are that this will richen the mixture in the closed loop range and hopefully keep the engine a bit cooler during break in. From what I understand, it is best to leave the AFR tables unmodified until you have done many smart tune runs and it gets to the point that very few changes to the VE tables are being recommended. Once this point is reached, then you can start to play with the AFR tables.
I was going to start smart tuning right away, but have decided against this and will wait until after the break in period because when you enter smart tune mode, ALL of the AFR cells are changed to 14.6 or closed loop during the data gathering run to allow the smart tune programmer to gather accurate data. I think this will be too lean for an engine that is being broken in. After the smart tune run, you go back to your PC, modify your map with the data the smart tuner gathered, then you reflash your ECM with the new modified map. Does this make sense to anyone?
I did some searching on the net and came up with blue loctite #243 as the answer to what I should use on my rocker bolts. Any feedback on this would be appreciated.
I figure that I have about 3-4 hours of assembly time left and hopefully I will be done and ready to start the bike.
In regards to my SEPST. I have modified the stage one map that I was going to use to start the bike and changed all of the closed loop cells to 14.0 . My thoughts are that this will richen the mixture in the closed loop range and hopefully keep the engine a bit cooler during break in. From what I understand, it is best to leave the AFR tables unmodified until you have done many smart tune runs and it gets to the point that very few changes to the VE tables are being recommended. Once this point is reached, then you can start to play with the AFR tables.
I was going to start smart tuning right away, but have decided against this and will wait until after the break in period because when you enter smart tune mode, ALL of the AFR cells are changed to 14.6 or closed loop during the data gathering run to allow the smart tune programmer to gather accurate data. I think this will be too lean for an engine that is being broken in. After the smart tune run, you go back to your PC, modify your map with the data the smart tuner gathered, then you reflash your ECM with the new modified map. Does this make sense to anyone?
Last edited by Mich; Feb 5, 2012 at 06:21 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Nashville, TN
dDon't use locktite on the rocker bolts. Some Anti-seize compound would be good. I don't remember the exact temp, but locktite blue breaks down somewhere around 240 degrees. And NEVER use locktite Red on a bolt you might want to remove in the future...like to replace a gasket, etc.
Last edited by SportyPig; Feb 5, 2012 at 10:46 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 858
Likes: 17
From: victoria bc
The reason I was going to use Loctite was because the factory bolts all seemed to have a thread locker on them when I took them apart but it was a greyish color.
I checked on the net and loctite 243 is good to 356 f. I think I will wait and see what the service manual says. Sportypig, does your loctite recommendation come from the manual or experience? thanks for your input.
I checked on the net and loctite 243 is good to 356 f. I think I will wait and see what the service manual says. Sportypig, does your loctite recommendation come from the manual or experience? thanks for your input.
Last edited by Mich; Feb 6, 2012 at 06:39 PM.
