My DIY 1250 conversion thread: EFI version
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Finishing up the bike tonight.
Note to self: Next time I do work like this, remove my Scythe mirrors. Hit my damn head on them a few times. Luck I did not lose an eye!
Scythe mirrors:
Started with the engine mount bolts.
Here they are installed:
I had some wires on the wrong side of the mount so I had to remove the mount and move the wires to the top side of the mount.
The culprit wire:
Reinstalled the engine mount bolts and now it's time to install the intake manifold
First, install the 2 left side bolts into their manifold holes, just thread them in about 3 turns:
Remove the old manifold gaskets and install the new rubber gaskets.
Installing the new gaskets:
Then move the manifold into position, slide the open flanges of the manifold onto the bolts already started in the heads. Hold the manifold with one hand and start the final two manifold bolts. Do the 4 manifold bolts up finger tight.
Putting manifold into position:
Last two manifold bolts:
I carefully followed the service manuals instructions for lining up the manifold before torquing it down. I installed the old AC backing plate finger tight, then installed the 2 breather bolts finger tight. I then torqued the 3 AC bolts down that puts the intake manifold in the proper position for tightening. I then tightened down the intake manifold and removed the old AC bolts.
Time to plug in all the disconnected wiring connections. time to look back at all the pictures I have stored on my PC to get it together right. It went pretty well but did take a bit of time. I also installed the coils and ignition switch as well.
Manifold in position with, wiring harness installed, throttle cables installed:
Now that the throttle cables are installed I followed the service manuals instructions for adjusting them to the proper tension.
Adjusting the throttle cables:
Getting close now!
So the service manual said to put the exhaust gaskets on the end of the header pipe and then insert into the exhaust manifold and finger tighten screws. Well this was not going to happen the woven gaskets would just fall off of the end of the pipe. I then decided to put the gaskets into the exhaust ports but they were a bit big and did not want to go in. It took quite a bit of work to finally get them to fit into the exhaust ports.
Exhaust gasket in the port:
I placed the new crossover gaskets on the crossover pipe and starting with the front pipe, I installed the exhaust port nuts loosely, then installed the bolts that hold the slip ons in position. I also loosened the clamp that holds the two pipes together. I then torqued down the bolts for the slip ons, then torqued the exhaust manifold bolts and lastly torqued the clamp. I then repeated this procedure for the rear pipe.
Pipes installed:
Installing the new AC:
The last things I did were install the fuel tank. No pics but it was very simple put it on top and reinstall the 2 bolts you removed at disassembly. reinstall the fuel line, overflow line, and wire harness. Now you are done with the fuel tank.
I put the fuses back in the fuse box, reattatched the seat and lastly, installed the heat shields.
Here she is completely reassembled and ready to start!
EDIT: forgot to mention that after completely assembling the engine, you want to turn the bike over by hand to make sure nothing it hitting or binding, the starter is very unforgiving if there has been a mistake at this point.
I put the bike into neutral, hit the run switch, and pressed the starter. It started right up, no hesitation. Unfortunately I have no video camera, so my buddy is supposed to come by this morning to do a little video and help me lift it off of the blocks that it has been sitting on.
I have done 4 heat cycles, gradually lengthening the time of each one and allowing the engine to cool completely between each one. I also put a floor fan on the engine in between cycles.
I will post a video shortly but so far no oil leaks, no odd noises, it seems to run great so far.
Note to self: Next time I do work like this, remove my Scythe mirrors. Hit my damn head on them a few times. Luck I did not lose an eye!
Scythe mirrors:
Started with the engine mount bolts.
Here they are installed:
I had some wires on the wrong side of the mount so I had to remove the mount and move the wires to the top side of the mount.
The culprit wire:
Reinstalled the engine mount bolts and now it's time to install the intake manifold
First, install the 2 left side bolts into their manifold holes, just thread them in about 3 turns:
Remove the old manifold gaskets and install the new rubber gaskets.
Installing the new gaskets:
Then move the manifold into position, slide the open flanges of the manifold onto the bolts already started in the heads. Hold the manifold with one hand and start the final two manifold bolts. Do the 4 manifold bolts up finger tight.
Putting manifold into position:
Last two manifold bolts:
I carefully followed the service manuals instructions for lining up the manifold before torquing it down. I installed the old AC backing plate finger tight, then installed the 2 breather bolts finger tight. I then torqued the 3 AC bolts down that puts the intake manifold in the proper position for tightening. I then tightened down the intake manifold and removed the old AC bolts.
Time to plug in all the disconnected wiring connections. time to look back at all the pictures I have stored on my PC to get it together right. It went pretty well but did take a bit of time. I also installed the coils and ignition switch as well.
Manifold in position with, wiring harness installed, throttle cables installed:
Now that the throttle cables are installed I followed the service manuals instructions for adjusting them to the proper tension.
Adjusting the throttle cables:
Getting close now!
So the service manual said to put the exhaust gaskets on the end of the header pipe and then insert into the exhaust manifold and finger tighten screws. Well this was not going to happen the woven gaskets would just fall off of the end of the pipe. I then decided to put the gaskets into the exhaust ports but they were a bit big and did not want to go in. It took quite a bit of work to finally get them to fit into the exhaust ports.
Exhaust gasket in the port:
I placed the new crossover gaskets on the crossover pipe and starting with the front pipe, I installed the exhaust port nuts loosely, then installed the bolts that hold the slip ons in position. I also loosened the clamp that holds the two pipes together. I then torqued down the bolts for the slip ons, then torqued the exhaust manifold bolts and lastly torqued the clamp. I then repeated this procedure for the rear pipe.
Pipes installed:
Installing the new AC:
The last things I did were install the fuel tank. No pics but it was very simple put it on top and reinstall the 2 bolts you removed at disassembly. reinstall the fuel line, overflow line, and wire harness. Now you are done with the fuel tank.
I put the fuses back in the fuse box, reattatched the seat and lastly, installed the heat shields.
Here she is completely reassembled and ready to start!
EDIT: forgot to mention that after completely assembling the engine, you want to turn the bike over by hand to make sure nothing it hitting or binding, the starter is very unforgiving if there has been a mistake at this point.
I put the bike into neutral, hit the run switch, and pressed the starter. It started right up, no hesitation. Unfortunately I have no video camera, so my buddy is supposed to come by this morning to do a little video and help me lift it off of the blocks that it has been sitting on.
I have done 4 heat cycles, gradually lengthening the time of each one and allowing the engine to cool completely between each one. I also put a floor fan on the engine in between cycles.
I will post a video shortly but so far no oil leaks, no odd noises, it seems to run great so far.
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Az
3200 rpm
2005 XL883C - 1250 NRHS conversion kit
I'm getting ready to start my break-in on my conversion. I was wondering how critical the 3200 RPM limit is during the break-in period? I don't have a tach, but I upgraded to the Twin Tec ECM that has an adjustable rev limiter. Could I set this to 3200 for the break-in period?
Thank you!
I'm getting ready to start my break-in on my conversion. I was wondering how critical the 3200 RPM limit is during the break-in period? I don't have a tach, but I upgraded to the Twin Tec ECM that has an adjustable rev limiter. Could I set this to 3200 for the break-in period?
Thank you!
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 858
Likes: 17
From: victoria bc
I had a chart that showed the approximate rpm/speed for a 883 but unfortunately I think I deleted it and can't find it now on my pc. It came from this forum but I am not sure what thread. Maybe someone on this forum can repost that chart?
Using that chart I made marks on my speedo glass using a felt pen telling me what my maximum speed was in all 5 gears at about 3200 rpm. I used that as my guide as I broke my engine in. I was using the SEPST smarttune software at the time and what I found when I looked at the recorded data from my runs was that my actual rpms were lower than what was on the chart. Maybe this is because the engine was not working as hard because it was a 1250?
Anyways it seemed to work well for me.
Using that chart I made marks on my speedo glass using a felt pen telling me what my maximum speed was in all 5 gears at about 3200 rpm. I used that as my guide as I broke my engine in. I was using the SEPST smarttune software at the time and what I found when I looked at the recorded data from my runs was that my actual rpms were lower than what was on the chart. Maybe this is because the engine was not working as hard because it was a 1250?
Anyways it seemed to work well for me.
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Az
I found a chart for the 1200, which is probably as close as I'm going to get to the 1250. I'll go with that. I think I'm just nervous about getting her broke in right and not screwing something up.
Great write-up! Just wish I had found it before I did mine. I'm going to fire her up tonight for the first time and start the heat cycles...
Thanks for the info. I'll let you know how things go.
Great write-up! Just wish I had found it before I did mine. I'm going to fire her up tonight for the first time and start the heat cycles...
Thanks for the info. I'll let you know how things go.
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 858
Likes: 17
From: victoria bc
Don't use the 1200 rpm/speed chart it will not be accurate for you. The gearing on the 1200s is higher than the 883s gearing. Remember, even though you now have a 1250 your gearing is still 883.
Good luck with your start up!
Good luck with your start up!
Last edited by Mich; Aug 30, 2012 at 07:48 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Az
Oh right! Okay, so go with the 883 chart then? Is it not a good idea to set the rev limiter that low on the ECM?
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 858
Likes: 17
From: victoria bc
If you have the means, yes you could lower your rev limiter but hitting your rev limiter sucks because suddenly your power cuts out. I have hit the rev limiter on my bike several times and I don't like how the power shuts off. I would just mark the speedo glass if you are concerned. I believe my maximum speeds were about 1st/30kmh, 2/45kmh, 3/60kmh, 4/80kmh, 5/95kmh. I would say just don't lug your engine and don't rev it much either. You will find you are shifting sooner than you normally would and going through the gears quickly.