My DIY 1250 conversion thread: EFI version
Yeah, I misread the last post and thought you had just hit 600, which may have still been on the tail end depending on ring material. NRHS selected/installed the piston ring combo so there's not likely anything wrong there, and without knowing first hand how the motor has been broken-in its hard to say.
I hope you get it sorted out though.
I am enjoying the power increase, but now that I am used to the power gains I am wondering what stage 2 heads and new cams would feel like. I think I see a continuation of this thread this winter.
I am enjoying the power increase, but now that I am used to the power gains I am wondering what stage 2 heads and new cams would feel like. I think I see a continuation of this thread this winter.
But to cut to the chase: do not hesitate to get the heads and the pistons. Check out my bike at http://www.freewebs.com/iceyviking/
I just got my Supertrapp exhaust and installed it with 18 discs. I had SEII slip-ons and thought they were pretty good, but man, the difference is crazy. I have so far hit 120 MPH with no issues at all, but since not many roads in Norway are suited for these speeds, and my *** would be thrown behind bars for a long time as well as losing my license, I have to go to Denmark or Germany to test top speed. However, acceleration to 60-70 MPH (we get to keep the license if we're caught doing 70 in a 50 zone, even if it is expensive) is a blast.
I got the TC88A ignition, and had the VSS sensor throw a fit almost immediately. When I put the 1200 SE ignition back on the VSS sensor still ****ed up. I ended up reading a couple of threads here, and ran an extra ground cable to the VSS/TSSM, and since then (about 2000 miles) everything has been fine. Exept from a broken (and I do mean broken off) negative battery cable. It snapped off on the engine side, and I had to get a service car to come help me. Two hours of waiting on the road shoulder and ten minutes fix time.
Bottom line: things happen when you start changing stuff on your bike. The battery cable was probably due to more vibration.
Lastly a tip to anyone changing cams, push-rods or anything related to this, like heads and so on: once you've tightened the lifters down, let the bike sit for several hours before attempting to turn the engine over: the lifters need to bleed down. Else it may cause your valves to hit the piston, bending your valves.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Kind regards



