Kill switch = high idle
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 1
From: MO
Kill switch = high idle
...so I found an old post here that I quoted and replied to last week that said a high idle on EFI bikes was likely due to repeated use of the kill switch to shutdown the engine as opposed to using the ignition switch and provided a reset procedure.
This brought my idle down from 1200 (hot idle) to 950. Ever since I have been using the ignition switch only, however I had the bike inspected yesterday and the service drive used the kill switch 2-3 times which caused my idle to return to 1200 or so till I did once again followed the reset procedure.
Has anyone else noticed this or found a work around like an updated ECU flash or something? Id be afraid to do that due to the PC-V and cost however.
This brought my idle down from 1200 (hot idle) to 950. Ever since I have been using the ignition switch only, however I had the bike inspected yesterday and the service drive used the kill switch 2-3 times which caused my idle to return to 1200 or so till I did once again followed the reset procedure.
Has anyone else noticed this or found a work around like an updated ECU flash or something? Id be afraid to do that due to the PC-V and cost however.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,067
Likes: 394
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Mine has always idled at about 950 - 1000 once warm, the exception is on a hot restart the stupid thing has to go to high idle for about a minute or two before it figures out that it's already warm and can slow down the idle.
It does not seem to matter how I shut mine off but I do normally only use the key so I don't forget & run my battery down.
It does not seem to matter how I shut mine off but I do normally only use the key so I don't forget & run my battery down.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 1
From: MO
Kill switch in RUN position. Turn key to full ON for 8 seconds, switch OFF for 4 seconds, then back ON for 8, etc. Do this for four complete cycles. Note: fuel pump only runs on the first cycle if you do it right.
I have a SE super tuner and the guy that set my bike up lowered the idle and raised the redline. I have never noticed any difference on idle after using the kill switch vs using the ignition. I use the kill switch on a regular basis and the bike always seems to idle the same.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,260
Likes: 5
From: Batesville Ga
On the TBW (throttle by wire) touring bikes it is possible to reset the idle to a higher rpm if you don't have the throttle completely shut when you hit the kill (very likely depending on how you grip the throttle). Using the ignition typically prevents this since most of us will release the grip allowing the throttle to return to idle before hitting the ignition. I've been guilty of this myself on the EG.
The reset procedure for these bikes is not as stated here, however. Here it is for the other TBW riders:
Press Run Switch
Press and hold Right Turn Signal
Turn ignition to On - allow to cycle but do not start
Turn ignition off
Release turn signal
Start without touching the throttle
Allow to warm and check idle - 950 - 1050
Have never heard or experienced it on cable-activated throttles, EFI or carb.
The reset procedure for these bikes is not as stated here, however. Here it is for the other TBW riders:
Press Run Switch
Press and hold Right Turn Signal
Turn ignition to On - allow to cycle but do not start
Turn ignition off
Release turn signal
Start without touching the throttle
Allow to warm and check idle - 950 - 1050
Have never heard or experienced it on cable-activated throttles, EFI or carb.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 212
It's not just using the kill switch that causes the "learning" of a high idle. It's using the kill switch to shut it off before the engine has had a chance to return to its normal idle speed.
You could cause the same problem if you flipped the key while holding the throttle partially.
Solution: just idle the bike like 2 seconds before you shut it off (key or kill switch).
Good info on the TBW systems in case anyone who needs to know that stumbles by. And on the quote, it's strictly an EFI issue. Carbs idle is adjusted using the stop plate and idle screw. It's purely mechanical vs. the electronic control (IAC) of an EFI system.
You could cause the same problem if you flipped the key while holding the throttle partially.
Solution: just idle the bike like 2 seconds before you shut it off (key or kill switch).
Good info on the TBW systems in case anyone who needs to know that stumbles by. And on the quote, it's strictly an EFI issue. Carbs idle is adjusted using the stop plate and idle screw. It's purely mechanical vs. the electronic control (IAC) of an EFI system.
Last edited by Scuba10jdl; Mar 6, 2012 at 08:09 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 1
From: MO
I had read that it was caused by killing the bike before it had time to idle down, but not in my case unless 1 second or so isn't enough idle time before kill switch. I can repeat this on my bike easily. If i use the kill switch a few times, it will hold it's 1200 RPM idle after warmed up and time given for it to learn to go back to 950 till I do the reset procedure. What a pain. It's obvious to me now, but I can see where someone might not even notice the extra 250 RPM idle. Only way to be sure is with a tuner I would think unless you just know the bike that well. My idle sounds completely different at 950 and it's SWEET.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 858
Likes: 17
From: victoria bc
I have been smart tuning my 1250 with the SEPST and afterwards I take a few minutes to look at the data from my smart tune runs. My idle is set at 1000rpm but when I look at the recorded data when the bike is completely warmed up the idle fluctuates between approximately 930-1070 rpm. It never sits at a perfect 1000.