Drilling Bars Question
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,007
Likes: 126
From: Manassas, VA
For internal wires:
The back side of my stock risers is removed to show the holes where the wires go through the handlebars (you can see the odometer reset button and the back of the speedo housing as well as the speedo wires). I used grommets (Radio Shack) where the bundles go through. The wire loom I used stops just before the handlebars. I decided that two smaller, spaced apart holes where better than one large hole (after installation it's all covered by the stock risers/handlebar clamp):
This is what the dimple looks like on the under side of your bars. Drill a hole in the dimple (near the red area) to allow the wires to end up at the switch housing (or at least under the clutch lever/brake perch). If you poke the wires out too far to the end of the dimple (yellow dot), your wires may show depending on your handlebars. Use a sharpie to mark on your handlebars where your switch housing is mounted and go from there.
Go to a sewing store or Giant Box Store and get a seam ripper. Use it to cut your existing wire wrap. The little ball goes under the wrap and you just zip on up the line. The ball prevents any wires from being nicked. It's the safest way I've found to cut wire loom.
The sharp point is broken on mine but it still works:
Look Ma, no wires:
Vacuum, or blow, a piece of string through the bars to pull the wires through the holes.
If you splice, stagger your wire splices (to prevent a large bulge) and use shrink tube. Stagger sorta like this:
-----------------//----------------
--------------//-------------------
-----------//----------------------
--------//-------------------------
The back side of my stock risers is removed to show the holes where the wires go through the handlebars (you can see the odometer reset button and the back of the speedo housing as well as the speedo wires). I used grommets (Radio Shack) where the bundles go through. The wire loom I used stops just before the handlebars. I decided that two smaller, spaced apart holes where better than one large hole (after installation it's all covered by the stock risers/handlebar clamp):
This is what the dimple looks like on the under side of your bars. Drill a hole in the dimple (near the red area) to allow the wires to end up at the switch housing (or at least under the clutch lever/brake perch). If you poke the wires out too far to the end of the dimple (yellow dot), your wires may show depending on your handlebars. Use a sharpie to mark on your handlebars where your switch housing is mounted and go from there.
Go to a sewing store or Giant Box Store and get a seam ripper. Use it to cut your existing wire wrap. The little ball goes under the wrap and you just zip on up the line. The ball prevents any wires from being nicked. It's the safest way I've found to cut wire loom.
The sharp point is broken on mine but it still works:
Look Ma, no wires:
Vacuum, or blow, a piece of string through the bars to pull the wires through the holes.
If you splice, stagger your wire splices (to prevent a large bulge) and use shrink tube. Stagger sorta like this:
-----------------//----------------
--------------//-------------------
-----------//----------------------
--------//-------------------------
Last edited by HarleyScuba; Jul 9, 2012 at 11:28 AM. Reason: nunya
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 929
Likes: 3
From: Caro, Michigan
For internal wires:
The back side of my stock risers is removed to show the holes where the wires go through the handlebars (you can see the odometer reset button and the back of the speedo housing as well as the speedo wires). I used grommets (Radio Shack) where the bundles go through. The wire loom I used stops just before the handlebars. I decided that two smaller, spaced apart holes where better than one large hole (after installation it's all covered by the stock risers/handlebar clamp):
This is what the dimple looks like on the under side of your bars. Drill a hole in the dimple (near the red area) to allow the wires to end up at the switch housing (or at least under the clutch lever/brake perch). If you poke the wires out too far to the end of the dimple (yellow dot), your wires may show depending on your handlebars. Use a sharpie to mark on your handlebars where your switch housing is mounted and go from there.
Go to a sewing store or Giant Box Store and get a seam ripper. Use it to cut your existing wire wrap. The little ball goes under the wrap and you just zip on up the line. The ball prevents any wires from being nicked. It's the safest way I've found to cut wire loom.
The sharp point is broken on mine but it still works:
Look Ma, no wires:
Vacuum, or blow, a piece of string through the bars to pull the wires through the holes.
If you splice, stagger your wire splices (to prevent a large bulge) and use shrink tube. Stagger sorta like this:
-----------------//----------------
--------------//-------------------
-----------//----------------------
--------//-------------------------
The back side of my stock risers is removed to show the holes where the wires go through the handlebars (you can see the odometer reset button and the back of the speedo housing as well as the speedo wires). I used grommets (Radio Shack) where the bundles go through. The wire loom I used stops just before the handlebars. I decided that two smaller, spaced apart holes where better than one large hole (after installation it's all covered by the stock risers/handlebar clamp):
This is what the dimple looks like on the under side of your bars. Drill a hole in the dimple (near the red area) to allow the wires to end up at the switch housing (or at least under the clutch lever/brake perch). If you poke the wires out too far to the end of the dimple (yellow dot), your wires may show depending on your handlebars. Use a sharpie to mark on your handlebars where your switch housing is mounted and go from there.
Go to a sewing store or Giant Box Store and get a seam ripper. Use it to cut your existing wire wrap. The little ball goes under the wrap and you just zip on up the line. The ball prevents any wires from being nicked. It's the safest way I've found to cut wire loom.
The sharp point is broken on mine but it still works:
Look Ma, no wires:
Vacuum, or blow, a piece of string through the bars to pull the wires through the holes.
If you splice, stagger your wire splices (to prevent a large bulge) and use shrink tube. Stagger sorta like this:
-----------------//----------------
--------------//-------------------
-----------//----------------------
--------//-------------------------
+1 on the grommets too.
that's a pretty clean install scuba. OP you can also try a piece of thin metal chain to tie to the wires and pass them through. chain is heavier and you won't need the vacuum as it'll fall right to where it needs to go while you just move the bars around to help it along the way. check brcustom bars on gootube and you'll see what i mean. good luck.
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: NOVA
i used a dremel and cut more of a rectangle shape out of the two dimple areas, made it super easy, because i didnt have to put such a sharp angle on the wires to get them through the initial hole. and then i cut another rectangle shape at the center of the area that connects to the riser. i used a small wire and a nut with a bit of gravity to get them fed through.
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From: Clawson, Michigan
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,007
Likes: 126
From: Manassas, VA
Thanks for the comment.
Don't be worried that you'll mess up or you'll never get anything started. Worst case? You gotta splice 'em twice.
Take the Maxi-Fuse out. Take pics of plugs and other stuff before disassembly. Label stuff with masking tape and take some more pics. You'll be fine.
Don't be worried that you'll mess up or you'll never get anything started. Worst case? You gotta splice 'em twice.
Take the Maxi-Fuse out. Take pics of plugs and other stuff before disassembly. Label stuff with masking tape and take some more pics. You'll be fine.
